My Type 34 Restomod build

[Notch]

[Clatter]

FWIW,
In hindsight, I might have done mine a bit differently.
A big part of my conversion is to keep things stock looking.

My conversion *should* be un-detect-able unless you look very closely.
However,
I'm making a very tail-heavy car.
And, it's a lot of un-nessescary work.

If I was doing what you are doing with the 6-cylinder,
Would ditch the rear torsions altogether.

Ever go to Germanlook.net?
Look at the Project Builds for user 'Ricola'.
He made a huge forward 'notch' for a G50 in his super vert.
At the time I looked at it and thought 'what a LOT of work',
However,
In hindsight, it really would have been easier to do it that way.
Just build the frame, and cover with a box.
You could also not buy the bug@5-speed nosecone, just maybe the shifter.
Plus, use coil-overs in the rear.

That way you can move all the heavy stuff forward.

My directive to use factory mount parts was kind of dumb, too.

If you are doing a Mendeola front end, stock looking doesn't look like your priority.

Hope I'm not being a 'parade rainer', but it looks like you are still at the drink/scratch/stare stage.
Kind of still there myself, actually...
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

This guy is my hero:
http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10373

Coil-overs allow the torsion housing to be notched.
Axles that would be used on a wide-track late-late 944 are used to 'reach forward' to the new trans location.
(if that makes any sense... )

My big push to keep the subframe rubber-mounted was silly.
It makes for a plush ride, but makes the car somewhat vague in its road feel.
The beetle, with suspension directly mounted to the pan, is far more solid on the road, and better suited to fast driving.

So shit-can the Type3 sub, and fab up some stout mounts!
It will be easier and work better.

IMHO, FWIW, Etc.
Armchair Quarterback...
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Dinopower]

[Nate M.]

[Dinopower]

So my cousin John comes over with a belated birthday present, how cool is this 👍
Cheers cuz

_________________
My build thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621824&highlight=

[Dinopower]

So with Clatters advice in my head I thought I would have a head scratching session with my cousin John, we were supposed to be mending the little ladies caddy (she had a bit of bump in it)

So we were looking at how far forwards it would be possible to get the tranny forwards using the Squareback subframe

We decided that it's worth cutting out the centre section as it's going to allow the tranny to move forwards up to two inches, before we settle on a final position we're going to bolt it all in the body and see how the engine sits in the bay.
_________________
My build thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621824&highlight=

[Dinopower]

Clatter you are spot on. We have had a few evenings of head scratching and figuring out, and have come to your own conclusion. The rear subframe or to be precise most of it is going!!

I'll post a few pictures when the progress starts next week
_________________
My build thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621824&highlight=

[Clatter]

Oh, man, my thoughts reel when looking at those pics...

Dunno if you actually looked all the way through my build thread,
(Only a couple of people ever have, as it happened,
Can't blame anyone seeing it now for getting totally bored)
But,
Don't think you have to use the nosecone-to-crossbar bolts in their current as-made location.
I re-drilled the four bolts in a more rearward (forward?) spot.
That kit is for a beetle.

Basically, if you could use your valve cover-to-rear wheel clearance as your limit to how far forward the motor goes, all the better.

Another limit might be how long you can get the rear axles to 'reach forward' to the CV flanges at the trans.
You can get custom axles, but $$$..
My guess is that a set of late 944 axles will give you your 'reach' right as the valve covers approach the rear wheels.

And, to put another bug in your ear,
If you are fabbing up a rear subframe,
Now is your chance to use some 944 aluminum rear trailing arms!
And,
How about narrowing the rear track?
Trans raise?

Oh, the evil thoughts....
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

FWIW, props to you for going there..
You will be the fifth person I know of to put a Porsche transaxle in a type 3.

I saw a guy in the Central Valley, CA, here that did a trans raise, but not a torsion raise.
He built a false floor in the rear deck to get room.
His was one of those airbag/low rider/feeble limpers;
Not a serious car.

There was a guy in Texas here on this site that started a narrowed/raised torsion project years ago.
It involved a type 1 rear torsion housing and tubs,
But he never finished it.

So,
Seriously,
If you can pull off a narrowed/raised rear torsion setup,
You will be the first on earth AFAIK..

If you are going to get some big meat under stock fenders,
You'll have your work cut out for you.
Narrowed/raised is the only way to tuck big rubber,
And not have the 'splayed out' too-much-camber thing going on.

Because you are using a Ghia, it's like a Notch, vs. a Fasty or Square,
In that you don't have a flat rear deck that you might be inclined to keep intact.
A big directive in my build was to keep the deck low for surfboards.
Otherwise, I mght not have chickened out on the torsion raise/narrow.

And,
Now that I have had the car further apart, and my metalworking skills have come along,
There is a 'false floor' above the trans, that is just tack-welded in, and would be very easy to remove and make the narrow/raise operation much easier.
Can get a pic or two if you want,
Cause,
This babbling on probably doesn't make a whole lot of sense....
I'll go crawl back under my rock now.

Just hoping that someone out there has the huevos to take it to that next level.
That place nobody has dared gone yet.
You look like that guy.

But,
Be careful.
This is a LOT harder to do (correctly) than it looks.
I'm setting you up to abandon this project unfinished.
Even my car, with its stock torsion, if it was just a stock restoration, would have been done twice already.

Whoops,
Babble-babble.
I know, I know,
Rock!
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Nate M.]

[Clatter]

The type 3, with it's fabricated rear shock towers, has a strength advantage over the beetle, which used the castings for the shock towers,
That, and the mounting point at the top of the tower that locates to the car's body.
That's how they are able to use the thinner/lighter tower vs. the beetle with it's thick casting.
It does, however, give up some strength by being rubber-mounted at this top-of-tower mount.
And, it plays hell with anyone wanting to do a torsion raise or narrow.

My whole plan involved cutting up a parts car.
Using some of this, and more of that, to piece together the shapes I wanted.
Like making some factory-looking 'mini tubs', as is hip with V8 guys these days.
Exactly how to do it overwhelmed me at the time.
When I cut the rear sections apart, I didn't look at it closely enough, and the whole layered/false floor part intimidated me into chickening out.

Approaching your car now,
I would get that lower false floor out of the car,
Then also get the actual floor floor out, too.
Then you will be able to see the upper shock tower mounts, get measurements, etc. for the narrow/raise operation.....

Man,
That next one I do... That'll be the one right there....
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Dinopower]

All good stuff guys,

Nate the false floor has long gone, I really don't want to intrude into the car enough to interfere with either the rear seat or pan to body seal. But from what we were doing this morning I don't think that will be necessary.

I opened up the tunnel this afternoon. I need to convert the pan to RHD and reposition the clutch tube. Plus run twin fuel lines.

Am I right in thinking that I want to move the clutch tube to exit on the right side of the pan at the rear to meet the tube, which I have yet to get on the 915 tranny?
_________________
My build thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621824&highlight=

[Dinopower]

Nate, I'm with you on the narrow rear, I have the narrow mendeola rear arms along with their version of 944 rear brakes which don't increa the rear track. The the overall effect will be the opposite of the amount of track that 944 brakes add to standard arms. Which I think is an inch or so each side.
_________________
My build thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621824&highlight=

[Dinopower]

[/vw

_________________
My build thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621824&highlight=

[Dinopower]

Hey clatter, you'll like this.

_________________
My build thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621824&highlight=

[Clatter]

There you go...

That whole 'rubber mounted subframe' thing is for luxury cars, not sports cars..
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Nate M.]

[Dinopower]

My last Squareback was solid mounted, and to be honest I didn't notice that dramatic an increase in noise. This set up is going to be no different to a 911, so I'm hoping it will be to a similar refinement! Plus i have a firewall to put some sound insulation on.

Best bit though is a straight route from shifter to box, I've got two 915 shift rods as well as the 34's I'm hoping to make a type 3 rod with 915 fittings each end.
_________________
My build thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621824&highlight=

[Dinopower]

So a bit more progress today, started making a base plate for the 915 shifter and modding the tunnel to fit it, these things are like twice as wide and 3 times longer than the VW shifter 😳
_________________
My build thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621824&highlight=