My Type 34 Restomod build

Dinopower · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 3:43 pm Post subject:

Right, after two whole mornings of head scratching measuring, mocking up

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It became clear that the position I was going to use just wasn't going to work. The tranny wasn't far forwards enough, it all hung to low, and the sway bar would need modding or mounting really low.

As the rear suspension compresses, the sway bar will contact the tranny mount
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Dinopower · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 3:50 pm Post subject:

And then it came to me,

Turn the tranny mount 180 degrees and mount it to the body. Suddenly it all started coming together, while I was lining up the shift rod I realised. The Porsche rod passes right under (well over right side up) the original Subframe centre mount

You can see a direct line to the shifter bush.
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Dinopower · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:10 pm Post subject:

So then I started wondering

It turns out the front mount fits with a little clearencing,

It also turns out I'm a wuss, with the engine mounted to the body, all forces will be separated from the suspension. As there are solid bushes in the coil overs and front spring plate rose joint, I want to retain some form of rubber mounting. This is after all supposed to be a Grand Tourer, and we are planning a big trip round Europe in it.
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Dinopower · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:34 pm Post subject:

So a tranny mount/tunnel brace was made. This will tie in to a full perimeter box section that ties into the super beetle frame head

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Dinopower · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 1:50 pm Post subject:

So after getting the tranny mount in, I thought I would turn my attention to the other end of the pan.
I put the original beam back on and started measuring......

One front wheel has 1/2" set back from the other Shocked

So I consulted the oracle (Rick) and was told I needed to get serious, so a quick chat with the blacksmith and 50' of 2x4" was ordered. I'm lucky I ended up living where I do, I overlook nothing but fields but out the gate of my back yard is a little industrial estate. I have a blacksmith who sells all my welding supplies, the hot rod shop where Rick works, a body shop, my workshop and a building where strongberg carburettors are made. There's even a lotus garage! It's a car guys paradise.

So the next day my steel arrived and the blacksmith was kind enough to let me use his bandsaw, guillotine and punch.

Ta da, chassis jig in kit form

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Dinopower · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 1:53 pm Post subject:

And a few hours later

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Dinopower · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 1:56 pm Post subject:

As you can see the old frame head was removed, along with about 3llbs of sand from the sandblasting which I would have never known about.

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Dinopower · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 2:02 pm Post subject:

Pop quiz, how far does a bug framehead protrude out from the body compared to a type 3?

Answer, about 6" further........ Damit! I thought this end was going to be a bit more straight forward.

So more mocking up.

I had been hoping to incorporate the rear crossmember untouched, but it's got to go way way back under the floorpan.
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Dinopower · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 2:08 pm Post subject:

So my naive plan of using some of the 1303 Napoleans hat out of the window, I kept removing metal until I got the wheelbase correct!

Got everything squared away with my laser level (I know it's not square in the pic lol) and it started to come together!

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Dinopower · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 2:20 pm Post subject:

And finally the Frankenstein Type 1303 pan is created

There's still a heap of work to do putting in closure panels, the crossmember, recesses to access the A arm lower nuts, and reinforcing pieces.

So if anyone asks if a bug framehead can be put on a type 3 pan, the answer is yes, BUT, it is truly a huge undertaking, they are too long, but in my case it is the only way to fit the Mendeola S2 front end.

On the plus side, I'm the second guy I know of to do this, and the only other was Mendeola themselves, for Paul Schley's race notch. I can't see many people going this route with their type 3

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racoguy · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 4:02 pm Post subject:

Love it!
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Nate M. · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 7:40 pm Post subject:

Top notch work there!! Sounds like you truly are in car-guy heaven!! Thanks for the update!!
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Nate M.

Squarsche build
Heavy Metal Affliction feature

For heaven's sake, put a type4 and a Porsche 5-speed in there. . . It's the right thing to do!!

Bobnotch · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 7:55 pm Post subject:

Clatter · Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 7:58 am Post subject:

Wow!
I like your shirt - Top Gun for reals...

Make sure to fab up some mounts for body-to-front-frame-head (beam clamps) like Mother VW did..?
Seems like a golden opportunity to get the rigidity in the whole schmear while still having some rubber-mountedness.

Also like how you are making the rear sway fit.
That bug@5-speed traverse just always wants to occupy the same space..

I was at first thinking-
Maybe just move the whole drivetrain an inch up, and a couple inches forward, and there you go.
Laughing

Thanks for keeping us up to date on progress.
This a whole 'nuther level right here...
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

Dinopower · Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 3:34 pm Post subject:

Dinopower · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:28 pm Post subject:

Right, sorry I haven't posted any updates for a while. I took a bit of time off work and locked myself in the workshop. I got the perimeter box section completed. Man that job sucked, having to make each bend section and keep it all square took so much time. It wasn't worth regular updates you'd have all sharpened your pitch forks lol

So....

All done, well then I realised that the seatbelt bolts would interfere.
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Dinopower · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:46 pm Post subject:

They were just holes in the pan with reinforcing plates so I decided to integrate them into the tubing

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Dinopower · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:51 pm Post subject:

So final thing to do before flipping the pan was making room for the tranny in the second IRS subframe. This time I used a Fastback one, as the reinforcement piece of the squareback one has to be removed to fit the swaybar

Welding in a Tee-shirt and shorts with no sunblock on is a bad bad idea

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Dinopower · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:58 pm Post subject:

So final piece is to cut the new section that's going to be the bottom of the framehead/Napoleans hat

Then a quick check that it's all going to fit together right side up

Everything was then dismantled from the table, all the mounts cut off and welds ground smooth.
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Dinopower · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 2:18 pm Post subject:

So the fun began. First we made mounts for the pan set at the approximate ride height (5"). Then lined up the pan on the centre line. Bolted up the rear subframe and finally craned the engine and tranny into place. We stood back and looked at each other, this thing looks like some kind of VW monster. It all looks kinda right but so wrong at the same time. The engine seems to make the pan look tiny. I kinda feel like Victor Frankenstein looking at my creation, I swear if there had been a thunderstorm it would have came to life Shocked

So on Clatters advice, I've got the tranny as far forward as possible, I didn't want to go any further than the pan gasket though. I think I got about as close as I could!

A quick look down the tunnel shows I can still use the Porsche shift rod with very little modification and not interfere with the centre mount.

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