Idling issues, accelerates ok, ends up stalling when idle.

FreakCitySF

I have tried adjusting the distributor by ear and it's not making a difference on the idle. I havent mucked around with the carb ever and it was working ok recently besides the bad short I have behind the dash.

Also should the fuel filter usually be 2/3 full? Right now its just about at the filter element.

So I can pump the pedal repeatedly to keep it running but letting go it idles down roughly and then dies.

I'm going to double check point as I did play with that recently. Also check the distributor cap as it looked a little worn.

Id love any suggestions ;)

Thanks

Chris

videoguy009 · Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:07 pm Post subject:

The fuel filter should not be that full.It filters the gas as needed by your engine.When your vehicle is off there should be very little gas in the filter.What carb are you running?
_________________
1971 Super Beetle

videoguy009 · Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:22 pm Post subject:

If it is a 30 or 34 pict3 it could be your idle cut off solenoid ,which is screwed into the side of the carb under the mixture screws ,that is staying closed cutting off the air.When you rev the engine it overrides this.To check this you unscrew it from you carb,turn the ignition on and unhook and rehook the wire coming from coil or its 12v source. You should see the little plunger go in and out.If it doesn't, replace it.
_________________
1971 Super Beetle

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338

How full the filter appears to be has a whole lot to do with the angle it is sitting at. Installed outlet up it should be quite full, but if laying at an angle it may not be.

Remove the line from the carb and stick it into a coffee can and see how much fuel it pumps with the engine running or just being cranked. Don't burn yourself up, this is not the safest thing in the world to do.

I would check the idle fuel cut off first before I did anything else though.

Ron Domeck · Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 8:29 pm Post subject:

Intake boots sucking air in?

GI Joe · Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 9:44 pm Post subject:

FreakCitySF · Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 10:55 pm Post subject:

009 distributor, 034 carb

Not my pic but this plunger right?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So remove that and check for action.

as far as air intake, removing the boot and seeing if that changes?

Not sure if I know what to do to test air intake.

GI Joe · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 9:59 am Post subject:

Yes, on the idle air control...(plunger)
You can feel it actuate, if it's working. Put a finger on it and have someone turn the key on.

In regards to air intake leaks.. Easiest way to check is have the car idling(as best you can) and spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb, at each rubber boot on the manifold, and lastly at the base of the manifolds at the heads. ANY change in engine running shows you're sucking air in at that particular point when sprayed and the gasket or boot needs changed.

Good luck!
_________________
'74 Thing, "Our Thing".... Blue 181

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...p;start=60
'71 Beetle RPU
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8080337#8080337
www.NLEOMF.com
Respect, Honor, Remember

FreakCitySF · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 4:51 pm Post subject:

Idle solenoid replaced and no change.

However....

I realized the butterfly/choke flap was "wonky". I moved it around (not sure what position) and I could make it idle! Perhaps electronic choke? I will go outside soon and check position of choke. Perhaps gummed up hinge? Or perhaps a physical linkage missing?

Normally should the valve be open fully or closed fully? I feel good, we are close, thanks for ideas!

GI Joe · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 4:55 pm Post subject:

Almost fully closed(horizontal) when cold and open(vertical) when warmed up.

There are 3 standard head screws at the Oass side of the carb to adjust the choke.
_________________
'74 Thing, "Our Thing".... Blue 181

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...p;start=60
'71 Beetle RPU
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8080337#8080337
www.NLEOMF.com
Respect, Honor, Remember

videoguy009 · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 4:59 pm Post subject:

Did you check the jets,they may be clogged.Also,try readjusting the the big mixture screw.If this is not correct it can cause the car to stall at low rpm.It happened to me.I still suspect a clogged jet.
_________________
1971 Super Beetle

videoguy009 · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 5:00 pm Post subject:

And I second the choke thing.
_________________
1971 Super Beetle

rrankin · Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 10:58 am Post subject:

Check the choke cable... mine was worn and grounding out at the back of the generator and causing me issues...
_________________
'74 Thing [Fritz]
Austin, TX

FreakCitySF · Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:01 pm Post subject:

Good ideas!

In fact I'm still having issues.

It really is something to do with the auto choke. Adjusting it closed by hand allowed the engine to idle normally. I will double check the cable and try adjusting the choke.

Any tips on adjusting the auto choke in 61 degrees weather? Just by visual or sound?

thanks again!

FreakCitySF · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 7:32 pm Post subject:

I think I figured it out.

It was a bad hose from carb to air cleaner. Happens that its next to the idle area. I plugged the hole until I can get a new braided line but it seems to idle ok now. I was starting to go crazy!

I had used a urethane tube and its started to expand and not remain air tight.

This would make a great way to test a car repair shops honesty. ;)


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

	Forum Index -> Thing/Type 181	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page 1 of 1