71 Bug (non-Super) won't start #$%&!

[dumberthanacompleatidiot]

I bought the car and ran it for a little while. Then I started having trouble starting it and I can sure use a little help. For a while it would start maybe half the time, now after "working" on it it apparently won't start at all. Hey. How do you think I got my name?

Anyway right now, after charging the battery and getting it around 13.70 volts on the multimeter, with the re-charger attached (in an effort to keep the battery from running down) it'll turn over but just won't get going. I can usually try it maybe 3 or 4 times and the battery starts wearing down some then all I get is silence and a dimming of the red and green lights.


Here's what I know:


1. Battery
Seems like it's good after it's been recharged. Wears down after a few start attempts.

2. Fuel
Makes it to carburetor with no problem. Once in there I don't know what happens.

3. Starter
This will turn the engine pretty good at least until the battery starts running down but then most of the time you won't get any action out of it at all, except for a dimming of the red and green warning lights.

4. Distributor
When I started having this problem I got a Pertronix distributor/ignition and replaced the while thing. It really hasn't seemed to change anything for me. Just one thing to note here. When I put it in I couldn't push it in for nothing, it was way too hard to push in. The O-ring was just too big so I read how someone shaved it down a little with a Dremel and I tried the same thing and finally I was able to push it in. Same thing with the distributor hold-down thing. I noticed it was slightly bent and wouldn't quite go in. I little touch with the dremel and it went through. Hope these things don't have anything to do with it.

5. Coil
Pertronix. Got this with the distributor.This is getting spark, just don't really know how good it is. One thing I messed up on was one time while working on it I left the ignition turned on for quite awhile. Hope that didn't mess this up, but when I check the voltage on this when I have the recharger hooked up I get a reading of 12.70.

6. Choke
Being dumber than you know what, this thing really confuses me, but could be where the problem is, or somewhere else in the carburetor. All I do know is there is gas about 3/4 of an inch from the top of tank and the float looks like it works good. (Solex 34-PICT-3 I THINK the first number is 34, I'm not 100% sure).

7. Ignition switch
Dont know about it.

8. Wiring
Tried to start battery by clipping a wire from the wire on the battery and touching it to the box under the seat. Got one heck of a big white spark that was really exciting. I've said it before and I'll say it again. Dumber than (fill in the blank). Obviously not much of a mechanic!

One other note. A couple times I've actually started it and driven it but after a number of miles (maybe oh, five or six) it seems to want to lose power after it gets hot and then shut down. And of course it doesn't want to start again.

What do you think? Thanks in advance for any ideas!

[jsnwelch]

First, check your valves to make sure they are adjusted properly.

Next, check your timing and make sure it's firing in the right order. Also make sure you are getting spark from the coil to the distributor and from the distributor to the plugs themselves.

Then it would be a good idea to make sure you are getting proper fuel pressure.

Next, go through the carb set-up procedure for whatever carb it has installed, I'm assuming a 34pict3.


Those are the three big things that will keep a car from starting (fuel, fire, timing).

There are plenty of How-to's on here, Youtube, and Google if you search for them. It seems like a lot, but it really isn't too bad once you get started.

Good luck, I hope you get it running again.

[sb001]

It could be a myriad of things but my FIRST suspicion (and the first thing you should check anyway) is valves. Valves too tight, car won't start, after a while you run the battery down trying to start it. It's the one thing you didn't mention, + it might explain the car running for a while and then getting hot and shutting down without restarting.

Read up on this

http://www.vw-resource.com/valve_adjust.html

Once you have the valves properly adjusted (do this when the engine is COLD!) then we can go from there.
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor

[dumberthanacompleatidiot]

[jsnwelch]

Static time should get it running, maybe not perfectly, but at least running.

[cletus_zuber]

Since part of your name is "compleat" I'm guessing you have the "Idiot Book".

if so run through the engine stops and wont start procedures.
_________________
1972 1302
HPMX 40's & 019

[dumberthanacompleatidiot]

Question about adjusting the valves:

Having never done this before, when you put the feeler gauge in there (.006), how "tight" should it feel?

My thought on this was that if you put in the gauge and tightened it until it woudn't fall out when you let go of it, then loosened it just enough to get it out, that that should be close enough>

Would that work or is that just stupid thinking?

[jsnwelch]

Just tight enough that you can feel some resistance when you try to slide the feeler gauge out.

[dumberthanacompleatidiot]

Also too, I know you have to adjust valves when it's cold. Is it ok or isn't it to jack up the car when you do it? If not, why isn't it? (Sorry about the rookie questionsm hope it's ok).

[jsnwelch]

Go for it, whatever makes it easier for you to get the job done.

[dumberthanacompleatidiot]

[jsnwelch]

Basically yeah.

[dumberthanacompleatidiot]

Thanks. Ill get back under there soon and check again soon.

[Cusser]

[dirtkeeper]

I would check the choke operation and spark situation before I went into adjusting the valves.

I mean it's always good to adjust your valves and eliminate that as an issue when tuning and getting the optimum for your engine. But when trouble shooting a non starting car I have never in My 35years of messing with f up not starting bugs. Ug has it ever been the valve adjustment. And i can tell you I have checked and adjusted them many many time hoping that some how was the problem. I think they are rarely off far enough for a no start.

Case In point I just recently had a
No start problem with. Bus I have just revived. I adjusted the valves to eliminate that as a potential problem. But because it was a type 3 and the distributor # 1 is I the opposite location I adjusted them all wrong. Ultimately I got the engine running when got my wires in the right locations and it started and ran fine. Went to readjust the valves correctly and the were way off tight and loose..from my previous adjustment

I would check the points first. Common problem easy fix.....oo don't have points now. An way make sure you got spark to the plugs first.

And choke is open except at the very beginning of a cold start.

[prowhistler]

Does your rotor make good contact with the drive? Grinding the clamp can prevent the body from seating properly and clamping securely.

[dumberthanacompleatidiot]

[dumberthanacompleatidiot]

[Cusser]

[dumberthanacompleatidiot]