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Short Rod with Long Stroke
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Thing_Man73
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Joined: October 11, 2014
Posts: 70
Location: San Diego
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 4:03 pm    Post subject: Short Rod with Long Stroke Reply with quote

I decided to make an engine that was about stock width with a long stroke for my 73 Thing. I have taken a lot
of the information from the Samba and put one together. I built a 2332 with 5.325” Scat H-Beam Rods to
keep the engine as narrow as possible. I know this is a very steep rod angle but this engine will never see
more than 10K miles in my entire life. All of the factory tin from my OEM 1600 AM Thing engine fits perfect.
I must admit that this is a very ‘Snappy’ engine compared to the long rod engines that I have built. I set my
rev limiter to 6K because all of the pull and power has come on by then. I decided to try a bunch of what
you guys said and combined it with what I know. So far it runs like a Beast, a ton of low end and a hard pull
from about 2,500 to 6,000 rpm.

New AS41 case, center shuffle pins, stroke clearance, oil modification done (including Marks slotted lifer bores),
extra clearance for piston skirt at bottom of stroke, decked to 98mm for 94 AA cylinders.
Complete Full Flow with Canton Oil Filter and Setrab coolers with 180 degree thermostat.
1 1/2 Qt. Scat Sump with CB cut to length pick-up tube with double mounting tabs.
CB 84mm Forged Crank
Scat H-Beam Rods 5.325”
Calico T1 coated Bearings (All)
94 AA Forged Slipper Skirt Pistons and Cylinders ( the more expensive one’s )
Engle FK44 Cam – set on 4 Degree Advance with Magnum Straight Cuts
Shubeck Ceramic Lifters ( the unobtainium one’s)
CB 1.4 Rockers and lash caps (with Marks banana oil groove)
ACN Super Aluminum Push Rods with Jay Cee tubes.
Tims Stg. 2 Plus 42 x 37 valves Heads
Compression Ratio : 9.5
Empi 44 HPMX Gen-3 Carburetors with 37 vents and personal Jet Doctors (W/B jetting looking good)
AA Stainless Steel Sidewinder 1 5/8 exhaust with Fat Boy.
Jake Rabe Type 1 DTM shroud and Type – 4 Cooler, Dual Setrab remote coolers with fan packs.
All set on a transmission with a 4.87 R/P and close ratio gears.
Much More

Say what you will, I know all of the people that will say it would be better – IF YOU DID THIS:
I have an extra new case and most of the parts and want to build one for a friend. I am open
for suggestions and info about another ‘Short Rod Narrow Engine’ Keep in mind that I am
not looking for a high mileage long lasting engine.
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GTV
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Joined: March 27, 2004
Posts: 2084
Location: Si'ahl
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool. I'm putting together parts for a similar-ish 2332/5.325" engine. I'm curious to know, where did your deck height come out to without spacers (if you even needed them)?
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Thing_Man73
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Joined: October 11, 2014
Posts: 70
Location: San Diego
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I needed .012 shims to get about .0 - .002 deck and then used .047 Copper head gaskets to go with my 60cc heads. I believe that comes out to about 9.5 cr.
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jfats808
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Joined: December 10, 2007
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Location: oahu hawaii
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome combo. I would love to get my mitts on your lifters....
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Dan Ruddock
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Joined: October 25, 2012
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Location: Sarasota, in my adopted state of Florida
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't listen to the long rod BS. I too at one time thought they were a must but not anymore. There are many factory road cars from all over the world that came with short rod and long stroke that worked just fine. My current build is 5.358 oem Porsche rod by 84mm.

Now on a all out high RPM drag race engine the long rods make sense. It is mostly monkey see monky do.

Dan
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oldschool5er
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Joined: May 28, 2007
Posts: 804
Location: Ohio
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeaaa happy to see someone not caving in to the long rod stuff also...Short rod ratios have been used for decades especially in off road racing and you can see why that is. I have built lots of these over the decades and are my favorite combo just because of the results you stated. I have never had an issue with longevity and if you compare it to long rod 2332's running the same CR and use you would see it is not any different then those in longevity. Like Dan said drag racing high rpm the exception. You can expect much more then 10k if it was built correctly and it sounds like you thought it out. I currently have the same ratio running in my personnel 2332 at 10.5 CR with Wiseco and cut to length cylinders so I don't use copper head gaskets. Very similar motor, I only wish I had the ceramic's also lol.
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[email protected]
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 7:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Short Rod with Long Stroke Reply with quote

That looks like a great combo. I also run short rods with 84mm crank. 5.325".
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luvthemvws
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 117
Location: Middle of nowhere
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hear hear on the short rod motors!
I have a couple of 1955s with re-worked 40hp rods and they are FANTASTIC Bus motors!
Remember, the highly vaunted Type 4 two liter has 130mm rods. They are renowned for their torque...
I have to say though, they take significantly more "fitting" than a more typical combo.
But if it was easy, everybody would have one. What fun would that be?
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croSSeduP
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Location: Western Washington State
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I once had a 2161cc (90.5x84) with Porsche length, Porsche journal Carrillo rods and it ran fantastic. I did have to clearance the wrist pin bosses on all the pistons but that was easy. I had the engine apart 5 times in 2 years and the car was my daily driver so I put some miles on it in those 2 years. I never noticed any unusual wear patterns in the cylinders, rings, or pistons.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my 2393 with 5.6 rod&86 stroke needs around a .040(1mm) shim. how narrow kinda depends on what parts you use.
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