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Random questions for Manx 2 build.
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SiggyManx#33
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:56 am    Post subject: Random questions for Manx 2 build. Reply with quote

I had a chance to put in a few good days on the Manx this weekend that generate a bunch of random questions. I'm sure I could search, but this will be more fun.

Looking for confirmation that there is no good use for a sway bar on a link-pin beam and it should just be cut off?

How about the travel bushings (rubber snubbers) on the beam? any use? do they just get cut off at the upright?

What size bolt thread for shifter mounting and adjusting holes?

This is the big one, any ideas on the easiest way to paint the underside of a rolling pan. I can remove the engine that's temp. mounted but beyond that, I have limited manpower to flip it over. The chassis is pretty clean and would only need minor work before coating but just wondering the safest way to get access for a few hours?
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If its going to be used for off-road travel at all, the anti-sway bar should be removed.

As far as the rubber snubbers, if its going to be used off-road where you want to have maximum ground clearance for rocks, deep ruts, etc., where you'd probably also install adjusters, then you should also remove the snubbers. Installing adjusters to raise the front end with the snubbers installed is pretty much pointless.
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SiggyManx#33
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:
If its going to be used for off-road travel at all, the anti-sway bar should be removed.

As far as the rubber snubbers, if its going to be used off-road where you want to have maximum ground clearance for rocks, deep ruts, etc., where you'd probably also install adjusters, then you should also remove the snubbers. Installing adjusters to raise the front end with the snubbers installed is pretty much pointless.


Thanks Nelson…what if the car may be lowered with adjusters at some point?
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wythac
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A pan is pretty light, even a rolling one. Take the wheels off an you and a buddy can lean it nose up against a garage wall long enough to paint it. A stout handtruck and a stout friend would be all you needed. Good idea to use some straps to secure it. If you have open beam ceilings in your garage you could also use cable comalongs to get it off the floor and suspended so you could walk under it to do the paint work.

I dont know what your work space looks like so maybe none of my suggestions work....good luck, I'm sure you find someway to do it.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have good over head support, you can use a cable come-along to raise it on it side.....BE SURE TO BRACE IT...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


NOT.........

Dale
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the front end removed, a full size pan can easily be lifted by one person. I used a rope and pulley to get it in the air, then a safety cable (or use a second rope) for safety.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If you leave the suspension on, two people can lift it up on it's side. Take off the wheels on the side you are going to lift, the pan will stand up on the wheels you leave on.

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wythac
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Q-Dog's pictures show more or less exactly the methods I was talking about in my previous post...perfect!

Until I added the rear swingaxle assembly to my car I was able to muscle it around on my own pretty easily with just the front beam attached. I used slings and a cherry picker to put on my pickup once it got to roller status, but I recall only needing to do that once.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If its going to be lowered the tires will be closer than normal to the fenders. The snubbers can help prevent frequent or hard rubbing of the tires against the underside of the fenders.

People have also used a oxy/acetylene torch rosebud tip to heat the snubber bars and turn them to an angle that works better on their buggy than stock.

The bolts are 8 X 1.25. I have one of those files that clean up threads on old metric bolts, they work great for identifying the pitch.

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SiggyManx#33
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you all!
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