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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 2:09 pm Post subject: Camper Equipment Wiring |
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Hi all,
I have searched all over for the question I am about to ask with no avail. So I bought this Vanagon from a PO who did not know anything about wiring. I removed all the camping equipment to tackle some rust issues behind the fridge. I connected everything back up correctly (I think) and now have no power to my water pump.
As I was removing the fuse panel, the cord which the PO had attached to the Aux battery fell out. I placed it back on the top of the right fuse, not sure if thats correct.
It looks like there is a relay attached as well, photos are attached. I am quite confused and the wiring diagrams are beyond me. I am not opposed to changing out the fuse panel for an updated one should that mean it will work more smoothly.
I used a multimeter and get a power reading into the fridge, display panel. When I go to test the wires going to the tap, I get a 12v reading on both wires which I am sure is not correct for some reason.
This shows the fuse panel. The wire in the top right of the fuse is connected to the aux battery (not sure if this is the correct location)
This shows the panel and how it is connected to this relay inside of the Aux battery compartment.
This shows the relay which was nicely tucked away in the compartment.
Please someone help, this is the last thing that I need to get done before I can get camping with this bad boy and its driving my up the wall.
Thanks all |
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Timwhy
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Joined: January 01, 2009
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Location: Maine
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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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thanks for the reply. That Pin is already being sent to ground
I also tried bypassing with a wire to that screw like in the photo and it didnt do anything. Its gotta be something silly. are there any other grounds in the system? |
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wcdennis
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Joined: July 20, 2004
Posts: 955
Location: Winston-Salem NC
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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Some of the early campers had a cut-out circuit that would keep the pump from running if the tank was empty. See if you are getting power at the pump connector when you turn the switch (the wires in the clear connector, seen in this photo):
If no add some water and test again.
If yes, the pump may be bad. |
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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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I will give that a try.. the only issue is that the front display isnt working at all, would it not indicate that I have no water?
I took some more photos tracing the entire system.
This shows the temp AUX battery. Note that the ground isnt connected to anything. I dont know what wire to connect to it.. also from the earlier photo, the ground is connected to the relay..
Used Multimeter on the connections and no power going to the faucet at all.
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Timwhy
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Location: Maine
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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Timwhy wrote: |
| Your fuses are the wrong amperage in the little black box. They should be different sizes |
But that shouldn't make a difference if I'm getting power to some parts would it? |
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Timwhy
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Location: Maine
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Timwhy
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Location: Maine
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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Timwhy wrote: |
| Maybe the kitchen LED panel needs to be plugged in? |
They were all plugged in prior to me taking out the multimeter and taking measurements. What are the correct fuses anyhow? |
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Timwhy
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Location: Maine
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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Timwhy wrote: |
16 amp for the bigger red wire and 8 amp for the smaller red wire.
Does the bigger wire match up with the wire closest to the drivers seat? |
There are two larger gage wires, they are on the rear of the fuse block. |
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Timwhy
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Location: Maine
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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Timwhy wrote: |
| Did you try reversing the tap wires? |
Just tried it and nothing.. its really odd cause it was working prior to removing the camping equipment and everything is hooked up the same as it was so I thought. |
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Timwhy
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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Timwhy wrote: |
| Unless you removed wires from the relay I would start there, but it sounds like a bad ground somewhere. |
I am starting to think that its a bad ground. How many ground wires are on this bad boy anyhow? is it just the one that comes off the relay? |
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thatvwbusguy
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Joined: April 18, 2007
Posts: 1712
Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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The red/black striped wire on the relay is the ground. It runs back to the starter solenoid, so you shouldn't see any ground for that relay inside the van unless the PO did that as well.
The local ground in the photo that Timwhy posted is generally used when running a hard start relay to avoid a conflict between the fridge relay and the hard start relay.
Check to see if you have 12V+ on the relay under the drivers seat at any of the 3 plain red wires. If there is 12V+ present on any of them, let me know which terminal it is connected to (there are small terminal ID numbers printed on the bottom of the relay next to the 1/4" terminals).
Once we have established that there is power getting to the relay, the rest can be tracked down pretty easy.
Do you know for sure that the water pump worked before you removed the kitchen to do the rust repair?
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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| thatvwbusguy wrote: |
The red/black striped wire on the relay is the ground. It runs back to the starter solenoid, so you shouldn't see any ground for that relay inside the van unless the PO did that as well.
The local ground in the photo that Timwhy posted is generally used when running a hard start relay to avoid a conflict between the fridge relay and the hard start relay.
Check to see if you have 12V+ on the relay under the drivers seat at any of the 3 plain red wires. If there is 12V+ present on any of them, let me know which terminal it is connected to (there are small terminal ID numbers printed on the bottom of the relay next to the 1/4" terminals).
Once we have established that there is power getting to the relay, the rest can be tracked down pretty easy.
Do you know for sure that the water pump worked before you removed the kitchen to do the rust repair? |
Hi there. I get 12v to terminal 30 and yes the water pump was working prior.
Thanks! |
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thatvwbusguy
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Joined: April 18, 2007
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Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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Switch the wire with constant 12V+ on terminal #30 with the larger red wire with the white housing on the outer #87 terminal and you should be back in business.
The fridge relay is wired in reverse of the way it would usually be wired for use as a headlight or fog light relay.
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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hogan029
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Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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| thatvwbusguy wrote: |
Switch the wire with constant 12V+ on terminal #30 with the larger red wire with the white housing on the outer #87 terminal and you should be back in business.
The fridge relay is wired in reverse of the way it would usually be wired for use as a headlight or fog light relay. |
Okay so I switched it. The following happened. I got a battery indicator on the fuse panel. But only after switching on the tap for some reason. Still no power going to the pump. |
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