Carb selection help

[dustymojave]

22 mpg is pretty damn good offroad.

The Zenith 32NDIX is a great carb for offroad and mounted single on a 2180 is the winningest Unlimited class buggy engine ever.

But they are getting difficult to get good rebuild parts for. i would recommend the 40idf single. A close friend has a 2.3l Type 4 with a single 40idf and it works great in his circa 2000 Class 10 beam 2-seat buggy.

YES. You can get more hp from bigger and/or more carbs. But I don't think he is looking to drag race the thing. and the single 40idf will work great for his stated purpose.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Vanapplebomb]

Every once and a while I shoot off a message to EMPI encouraging them to make a reproduction of the Zenith NDIX. EMPI has done some amazing things with the HPMX carbs and proven that they can make a top quality carburetor. I would love to see them take that knowledge and apply it to a Zenith reproduction.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

[jitup]

Well, I downloaded the dub dyno app, and I am now leaning twords a set of weber 40idf and go dual... My parts guy has a deal on a good kit for $550 with everything including good linkage. Money is still a bit of an issue but if I go with duals I can leave my ignition system intact for now ( genuine bosch 009 with blue coil) hopefully dub dyno is sort of accurate because I sure would love to end up near 120 hp the centermount 40 idf kit with good manifold is $340 tho so we will see... is there really a 22 hp difference between the dual and center mount set up or is something off on the app?

[dustymojave]

I think the app is a little ... ahem ... enthusiastic. For one thing, the dyno (or in this case, dyno app) is looking at a WOT pull from idle to redline. Dragrace scenario. It's not looking at driving the car on public roads or fetching groceries or trail driving across the NE Nevada desert and mountains.

Dual cars would DEFINITELY provide a noteworthy difference at max hp at high rpm. Would it extend through the rpm range and be usable power for what you were saying you intend to do with the car? I seriously doubt it. Personal experience says no.

A friend had a buggy with a similar wheelbase to mine with longer rear arms and a wider front beam, but similar front travel. His engine was a 2332 with dual 44IDFs, ported and polished heads, roller rockers and a bigger cam than in my 1835 with stock heads and rockers and a single 40DCNF Weber.

Climbing the face of a sand dune, his car would blaze away from mine until it got into trouble. Then mine would chug right on by and usually get higher up the face and would allow me to turn around under power while he was stalling his. (Note that there are no freestanding dunes to go over the top of around here, only a couple of dunes against the side of rocky hills.) On the desert floor or in canyons, mine was far more tractable. The only place he could actually run away from me was on a dry lake bed or graded road.

If you ever saw a 1600 limited race buggy with 85hp go around an unlimited buggy with 750hp V8 in the desert and go on to win the race overall, you would understand a little better. And I'm talking just a few years ago, not just in the early 70s. This is why it took many decades for offroad desert races to be consistently won (BUT STILL NOT ALWAYS) by V8 powered cars over VW powered cars.

Again...If ya wanna drag race or get up big sand dunes fast, go for more carbs, more hp, turbo, etc. Otherwise, considering what you say your intended use is, I recommend a single 40idf or HPMX.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[jitup]

thanks a lot dustymojave! This isn't a drag car. I am going to the parts guys tomorrow, most likely getting a single carb because I want to easily run a svda dissy. I want to have a nice even curve through the whole rev range and get relativley decent milage.

[dustymojave]

Very few aftermarket carbs used on air cooled VW engines have provision for vacuum port connection for a distributor. No IDF or HPMX does. Nor do the various models of Dellorto carbs. Some models of the Holley/Weber Progressive carb have vacuum ports. But they have issues with the float bowl sloshing through the vent into the throat in rough terrain. Kadron Solex carbs don't have any provision for it.

The vacuum needs to come from the correct area of the carb throat so the vacuum signal advances and retards the timing at the appropriate times. That's is part of why most use the 009 distributor which is all mechanical advance with no vacuum. I guess the newer 009 distributors from China are pretty crappy though.

Glenn Ring on here is really knowledgeable about Bosch distributors and rebuilds older ones. He might have some suggestions if he ever checks into your thread. Or you could PM him. I know he is TOTALLY OPPOSED to the 009. It appears to me that opposition is based on his bad experiences with the newer ones. Otherwise, try to get a used older 009 in good shape.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Vanapplebomb]

Weber IDF/EMPI HPMX have provisions for vacuum ports that work pretty well with SVDA distributors. Pulling the port circled in green reveals a screw that needs to be removed. Remove the screw and reinstall port and you have a functioning vacuum advance port.

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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

[jitup]

Thanks. I went single 40 idf. The kit was $220 cheaper then duals. I have a german 009 now with a blue coil. I'm going to use it for now vut might switch to a svda flame thrower type dissy. If the 009 runs good, but I like the idea of going electronic ignition, and having a rev limiter so the engine doesn't get blown by my wife if she misses a shift.

[Brian]

[HERC]

I agree with Rich about the 40. Jet it accordingly and it'll be perfect.
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Herc

[dustymojave]

Didn't know about that port. Even an old fart can learn something.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Brian]

Didn't even have to tap it. Unscrew and connect the line.
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Wash your hands

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'71 Bug
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