Bostig RG4 and RG5 Install Groups

[thasty07]

[Flatiron]

I did ask Jim about it as well, even though I know he is crazy busy right now trying to get the last batches of kits out the door. He suggested just trying it as-is and seeing if it works. Hopefully it will, but if anyone happens to have seen the inside of an 85 or 86 tach to compare this circuit board to, I'd love confirmation.

[jlg2000]

A couple of engine prep questions:

My salvage yard engine had a cracked intake manifold so I had them swap out an unbroken one prior to shipping. It looks like it's in good shape, but I'm skeptical about the job they did (not for any reason other than they're a salvage yard and not mechanics). I think I should pull the manifold and replace the gaskets at a minimum, just to know that they're good and everything has been put on with correct torque, etc.
It doesn't look like too hard a job, especially with the engine out. Any tips?

On first inspection of my engine, my spark plug galleys had water in them with a bunch of rust soup.
Do most folks clean up the spark plug galleys with the cam cover off or leave it on?
I've sucked out the water, sprayed the plugs with WD-40, sucked that out, then blasted the area with compressed air. I'll probably go at the area around the plug insertion sites with a pick and repeat vacuuming and compressed air steps several times. At first I thought I might need to pull the cam cover to really get at the area, but that seems like overkill. Peeking under the engine oil fill cap the bit of cam I can see looks fine and with no rusting or evidence of water.

Thanks,
Jeremy

[JudoJeff]

Jeremy, forget having the yard do the manifold. The gasket is around $18 at your FLAPS, and you'll want to do it yourself to make sure everything is done correctly. There's nothing hard about the job, just torque the nuts/bolts in an X pattern, slowly adding more turns, not one all the way down.

While it's off, clean the fuel rail, injectors, etc. Test the injectors with a 9v battery, and spray cleaner on them. (Bostig manual)

Once it's back together, flush out the cooling system with a water hose. Amazing amount of crud comes out!

Sounds like you cleaned up the plug galley super duper. I would not remove the cam cover until you've removed the plugs and everything is clean. That's another easy job, and you want to inspect the cams for wear, burning, etc. You also check the timing. (See Bostig manual page 86)

If you have an engine stand, turn it upside down when you pull the plugs, then nothing can fall inside.

If you follow step by step the Bostig manual, you won't forget anything. If you skip around, you might.

I put new plug wires and coil on mine, cheap to buy on Ebay. Save the old sets as spares.
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________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[jbnova]

Ditto on what Jeff said for cleaning up the spark plug galleys. I had a bit of water and some rust around plug #1. I also was wondering if that job would be easier with the cam cover off, but realized it was probably easier with the cover on since my shop vac hose fit perfectly in the spark plug holes. I sprayed WD-40, let it sit, used a pick, and Q-tips taped to the end of a screw driver to clean up. Then vacuumed and repeated til clean.

While unscrewing the spark plugs, I put the shop vac into the adjacent hole to suck up any micro debris.
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1986 Westfalia Weekender
2wd; Bostig RG3
GoWesty (H&R) 1.5" Lift Springs + 0.5" pad in rear.
Bilstein Shocks
16" Mefros, Cooper Discoverer AT3 (215-70-16)

[thasty07]

So making some good progress this weekend. But one area Im a little confused on is the T fitting for the heat core return line. The T came from Rock auto with a formed hose on there, but I would have to do some severe hacking to get it pointed towards the right direction. Im thinking about just cutting it off. Anyone else got any tips for how they are doing/did it?

This is how its hanging now, the hose infront of the hose is the heater return line.

Closer up image of the bends and how much its perpendicular to each other, Ill probably go get a 90 degree

Hanging in under its own hardware

[jbnova]

I'm in RG3 and haven't gotten that far, but there's a video on prepping that hose. http://youtu.be/k6_Ukm916nU
_________________
1986 Westfalia Weekender
2wd; Bostig RG3
GoWesty (H&R) 1.5" Lift Springs + 0.5" pad in rear.
Bilstein Shocks
16" Mefros, Cooper Discoverer AT3 (215-70-16)

[Flatiron]

Yeah, if you watch that video on the hose prep, it helps quite a bit. Depending on the year of your van, you need to cut either 2 or all 3 hoses off and just use the "T" section.
I definitely had to do some creative routing and trimming of hoses to get them all going to the right places. I managed to cross the main send & return lines, so I didn't have to deal with swapping them up front by the radiator.

[JudoJeff]

I cut the smaller T hose off, being careful not to nick the plastic. It was difficult to get the new hose on the T barb, try warming it up first.
_________________
________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[insyncro]

Personally, I am not happy adding plastic parts to a completely new cooling system.
I use Syncro stainless steel front to back lines...even on 2wd vans...and will be making up the T sections in stainless steel for my next Bostig conversions.

Saving a few bucks on a plastic part isn't worth the chance of it failing and dumping coolant.

Bostig billet thermostat housings and all stainless junctions and pipes for me.

[Flatiron]

So here's another snafu that I've not heard of before. I finally got my last RG4 parts package Monday evening. Finished up the power steering and exhaust installs, and was feeling ready to go! Just needed to slip on the old serpentine belt, now that the PS pump was on board. Alas, the belt is too long! Double checked the part # to make sure I didn't get the one for AC. Nope. Hmmm, maybe I got a goofy off-brand belt that's not quite to spec. Off to the FLAPS to purchase another (I need a spare anyway, right?). Still hangs loose. Check the tensioner to make sure it's working correctly. All good. Now I'm starting to feel stumped, so I dig into the various forums and manuals, and start taking a closer look at all the pictures. Something doesn't look the same in the area of my crankshaft pulley.

I don't know where that thing came from, but it's definitely not the right pulley. I knew nothing about these engines before this project, so I never thought to question it. It was in good shape, so I didn't think anything about it.
Anyway, found a correct pulley in stock at another FLAPS (nice day for a bike ride, thankfully), and I think you'll agree that there is a distinct difference!

Installed the new one, and now the belt is nice and snug, just as Ford intended. Hope to have my first start here soon.

[thasty07]

[Signalocity]

[insyncro]

[insyncro]

Link


First start and data logging for Kyle's conversion.

[thasty07]

[Signalocity]

[VanMorrisSon]

Hello!

I can't believe I only now thought to jump in a Bostig forum on Samba. :palm_to_foreheard: So, someone said they were Jim's most worrying customer - I would enter that contest! I have worried and worried and everytime, eventually, everything just falls into place. Stoked on the conversion. However - I have a couple questions:

1. Did anyone else get the black coolant level sensor from rockauto? It's got a pin connector and the harness has a female blade. I've hacked it, but I'm wondering if that will work until I get the correct one.

2. Anyone bypass their rear heater? If so, how'd they do it?

r

[VanMorrisSon]

So, I communicated with Jim and I think I'm all right. I swapped out the blade style connector on the CPS from the wiring harness and put in a female pin style, expaned it a touch and put it on the pin of the sensor til it was snug. then i tape it up. fingers crossed.

I bypassed my rear heater - went direct to the front cooling hose and just clamped off the rear heater hoses under the van until i'm ready to pull the heater.

Cheers,

[Flatiron]