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What is the mileage the valves need to be adjusted?
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blues90
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:06 pm    Post subject: What is the mileage the valves need to be adjusted? Reply with quote

I have always gone by the Bentley book .006" both intake and exhaust every 6,000 miles.

Then I read every 3,000 miles on some posts . In the Bentley it states every 6,000 miles, oil change every 3,000 miles .Replace points and plugs every 12,000 .

I have close to 2,300 miles since Nov of 2009 at best . I changed the plugs and all the fuel lines fuel filter , oil , new valve cover gaskets and adjusted the valves and a few other things. I changed the oil once because of the time frame and changed it again in Feb this year.

I know sometime in 1998 I rebuilt the engine and used new valve adjusting screws OEM and everything else other than the case and tin, crank and cam . Had the heads done .

I don't know how many miles I have on it since then because I lost the book I had long ago yet thinking back can't be more than 41,000 at the most. I just drove to work and back and all the stores are 1/2 mile from me . I had a pattern . I drove the car a lot more in 1990 to 1998 but that was the original engine that I have no idea how many miles it had because the odometer didn't work . I know the drive train was out before I got it in 85 because the ground strap to the body from the trans was not bolted on and the front trans mount was missing the two nuts that secure the auto trans mount to the frame fork the studs were there yet it banged when it shifted so I looked and found that. I found the car sitting in the used car lot at a ford dealership I worked at as a tech in 85 for $650 cash but don't know if it sat or was driven or what it's history was, only that it had one owner before me . I found receipt's for some work that was close to the time I got it under the back seat can't recall now what they were for . The engine that was in the car was stock but the case was pretty filthy inside so I removed all I could and flushed it out with mineral spirits and it ran great until 98 when it developed this rattle in the engine and still ran great even with the rattle and that's the only reason I rebuilt the 72 case I had. I recall the odometer read 88,000 when I got it, how long before that the odometer stopped working is any ones guess.

I tried to find the rattle thinking it was the fan or the cam gear even put a new oil pump in it because the old pump got ruined using that tool one buys to pull it out never did completely take it apart to find out what the noise was. It still sets under a bench in my garage with the heads off to get the two tins I needed between the cylinders , the 72 was missing those.

I just always went by the Bentley because it's all I had in 85 and it seemed all I needed.



more than 41,000 at the most .
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blues,

Kind of got lost on your post, but this is what I do. If I read right the heads are off (am I right?) ANYTIME I put heads on, used or not, at 500 miles, I remove all tin that is needed to retorque the heads (even if it requires an engine pull), and retorque ALL of the head bolts (nuts) and adjust the valves. After that the valves get adjusted every 3,000 miles. However, if you need to make more then minor valve adjustments at this point, there could be a problem with the engine. A seat sinking or a cam going bad.
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blues90
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Multi69s wrote:
Blues,

Kind of got lost on your post, but this is what I do. If I read right the heads are off (am I right?) ANYTIME I put heads on, used or not, at 500 miles, I remove all tin that is needed to retorque the heads (even if it requires an engine pull), and retorque ALL of the head bolts (nuts) and adjust the valves. After that the valves get adjusted every 3,000 miles. However, if you need to make more then minor valve adjustments at this point, there could be a problem with the engine. A seat sinking or a cam going bad.


No , I was just talking about a complete engine rebuild. Heads re-done all new bearings and oil pump , new push rod tubes and new valve adjusting screws and nuts , cylinder and piston with rings set , rods new bushings and balanced and new lifters , the crank and cam were fine and with in spec, . When I rebuilt my engine I torqued the heads in three steps first the 7 FP then I went between the 23FP or what ever the spec is for 10mm studs then the final spec.

I drove 500 miles and changed the oil and checked the valve lash . I of course did the valve adjustment when I rebuilt the engine. After that I did the valves every 3,000 miles for a while yet found they didn't need it so I looked in the Bentley and saw every 6,000 , still I do it close to 4,000 and some times a bit more. I never re torqued the heads never found a reason to. I've never done just the heads . I hope I don't need to any time soon . I still have the heads and case from the original engine so I may have those heads done when I can afford it just in case. Then rebuilt that case so I have another engine . This is my only car so I can't tear it all apart without something ready . Last time I did this engine I had the other ready plus I had a rental from work for free because it took a few days to remove and install the rebuilt engine. Now days it's a different story, and to long to go into.
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was at first looking to find a question..
Then "oh yeah, the title..." Idea


IMHO, the valves being adjusted is your goal,
And how often they move determines how often they need adjusted.

When I first started on this adventure loooong ago,
I had a valve dropping, but drove anyway.
Every day I would get up early, run out and loosen the tight valve like two full turns, go back in, get changed, and drive to work.
By the time I got back from work (only a few miles) it was running on three and making ticking noises.
It went like that for months, and luckily I made enough money to get new heads before the valve dropped entirely.

Now,
20+ years later, same car has all of the best parts and is tuned to run cool.
The oil gets changed every 3000 miles, and the valves get _checked_.
In the last half-dozen oil changes they have still as of yet not needed touched - still in adjustment.

So, as to how often to adjust - the answer is however often they need it.
How often to check - the answer is how hard are you wanting to make sure this is all well and good, and again, how often do they move?


A Zen thing, really....
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On rebuild, I tend to do an oil change early - like 500 or so miles - will check and adjust. Then at 3000. If there was not much change, I'll adjust check the next oil change and then I go for every other oil change (6000 miles)
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clatter wrote:
Was at first looking to find a question..
Then "oh yeah, the title..." Idea

The oil gets changed every 3000 miles, and the valves get _checked_.
In the last half-dozen oil changes they have still as of yet not needed touched - still in adjustment.

So, as to how often to adjust - the answer is however often they need it.
How often to check - the answer is how hard are you wanting to make sure this is all well and good, and again, how often do they move?

A Zen thing, really....


Yeah, I had the same problem (couldn't find the question). Rolling Eyes
But, I check/adjust the valves every 3K miles, or every spring on "tune up day". Like Steve says, most of the time they don't need adjusting, but you check their adjustment mainly to keep an eye on things. Wink
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
i change oil end edjust the velves every 5000km 3000miles

end yes they need the edjust.

Ron
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