Questions after 1st Drive on a Fresh 2276 just Installed

jl_1303 · Samba Member Joined: July 01, 2006 Posts: 569

Car is a '74 Super Beetle Convertible.

I fitted the 2276 (with Dual Dell 45s), and space was really tight when the engine was being fitted.

Heads are DRD L6, FK8 Cam, 5.325 rods, etc.

I now have 57 idle, 162 main and 200 air, I think.

Before the engine was fitted, on the engine stand, I adjusted idle speed with the linkage off, via the idle adjustment screws with a snail.

Timing was set at about 7-8 Deg BTDC at idle.

The snail was reading about a bit more than 5 on both sides, idle adjusted to about 850 rpm. Then starting from cylinder 1, Lean Best Idle was adjusted, then cylinders 2, then 3, then 4. After LBI adjustment, the idle went to about 870 rpm. Then the linkage was put back on. At this point, the engine appeared to rev smoothly from idle up (I know this mean nothing).

After the engine was installed on the bug, now that the engine has load, I have been driving the bug for a couple of days and found the following:

1. The car hesitates a little bit from idle when take off. I then think that the carb may have been too lean running the idle circuit. What are your thoughts?

2. After the car took off, when I reached beyond something like 2,000 rpm or so, it slightly dropped a bit before it climbed again to a higher rpm. I then think this may be caused by the main jet did not come in soon enough. Should I change the air correction jets to bring in the main earlier? If yes, which way do I go? 180 (down) or 220 (up)?

3. The oil temp would slowly climb to beyond 210-220F after some half an hour drive (I recorded about 230F earlier today). This had me worried. The couple of things that I can think of is to wrap the oil filter hoses with heat insulation tape to avoid the exhaust and the air flow from cylinder 3 & 4 from heating up the oil, as the hoses are just hanging close to the exhaust and the warm air flow outlet from cylinder 3 & 4. What do you think?

4. I at present have 5W40 in the engine. Should I go 5W30 or so in an effort to lower the oil temp (allowing the oil to go thru the oil cooler at a lower temp)? Your advice?

Also, what do you expect on the idle speed change, operating temp change, etc, when the piston rings becomes well seated? Today, I realised that when the car warmed to about 200-210F, the idle raised to about 950-1000. It did not come back down and I touched nothing. What should I do?

vwracerdave · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:44 am Post subject:

New engines always run a little hotter for the 1st 500-1000 miles until everything settles. Yes try the 5W-30. My oil temps went down 15 degrees when I installed the heat shield sleeves on the oil line.
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mark tucker · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:23 am Post subject:

first how many oil&filter changes have you done? also what dist? could be the curve in the dist . set total timing,you dont drive around at idle.

MURZI · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:32 am Post subject:

I have a 2276, fk44, 45 dell combo too. I am jetted at 62, 165, 200. Runs fantastic.
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You don't say what oil pump you have, but your oil is awfully thick for a new engine that likely has tight bearing clearances.

I wouldn't rush anything right now, new engines DO run tight and hot for the first thousand miles. When they loosen up things will cool off. But the oil pressure gauge will tell the story. What is your hot idle pressure? 3500 RPM hot pressure?
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jfats808 · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:01 am Post subject:

1. Recheck linkage tracking and readjust af mixture screws.
2. Leave the mains until you figure out your problem of the idle circuit. 162 is in range and so are the 57s. You can figure if you need a larger air afterwards.
3. I would put a little more timing, 9-10 at idle.
4. I think once you figure out your jetting problems and readjust timing, oil temp might come down. As mentioned, the engine is new and tight.

Dont panic. 230 isnt danger hot yet. Do you have a deck lid prop? Personally, I like to see a little more vacuum on the snail.
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jl_1303 · Samba Member Joined: July 01, 2006 Posts: 569

Engine should have been run-in at the engine builder. It has had a couple of oil changes on the engine stand, before it was installed on the bug 2 days ago.

Dist is a Mallory Unilite w/vacuum, grey/grey spring, idle set at 7-8 deg, whereas all-in was set at about 27 -28 deg. However, with the vacuum connected, I get about 50+ deg at beyond 3500 rpm. Is this normal?

Oil pump is 26mm. Oil pressure is below 20 at hot idle, I would need to check the hot oil pressure at 3500 rpm and come back.

jl_1303 · Samba Member Joined: July 01, 2006 Posts: 569

Forgot to mention, if it matters, the ignition is based on a Mallory 685 CDI, with plug gaps set to about .040 inches. Coil is a Jacobs Ultra coil.

[email protected] · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 11:45 am Post subject:

"Run in" and "broken in" are 2 different things. "Run in" is run long enough to know the cam and lifters are working properly. But no engine builder is going to run the engine for 20 hours to loosen it up before handing it to the customer. That's on you.

The engine will run significantly different after 1k miles. The rings seal better, and the engine turns over easier, both of these combined give you more manifold vacuum. So you need smaller idle jets AFTER the engine is broken in, compared to when it's new and tight. It will also run cooler.
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jl_1303 · Samba Member Joined: July 01, 2006 Posts: 569

66brm

j-dub · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:03 pm Post subject:

jl_1303 · Samba Member Joined: July 01, 2006 Posts: 569

j-dub · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:24 pm Post subject:

With the car just sitting in the garage/drive way disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor and hook it to a vacuum gauge. Start the car and work the throttle, you will quickly see the vacuum gauge move. Play with the throttle till you find the spot that produces the most vacuum. On my engine I see about 9" of vacuum. Some stock cam/carbed engines may see nearly 20" of vacuum.
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jl_1303 · Samba Member Joined: July 01, 2006 Posts: 569

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Your hot pressure indicates "too much pressure", I recommend a thinner oil to bring the pressure down. This will also drop the oil temps.

The creeping idle is likely because the engine is loosening up. Re-adjust the carbs and idle mixtures.

j-dub · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:33 pm Post subject:

[email protected] · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:31 pm Post subject:

50 degrees is too much. The unilite w/vacuum has an adjustable vacuum advance, the limit is adjusted with a set screw straight in the port. I think it's 5/32". Limit advance to no more than 44 total. Anywhere from 38-44 is good.
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jl_1303 · Samba Member Joined: July 01, 2006 Posts: 569

[email protected] · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:41 pm Post subject:

PS: when the plugs are out I recommend .028" gap, even with CDI. Will run better.
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