Questions after 1st Drive on a Fresh 2276 just Installed

[jl_1303]

When I was trying to work out the oil temp problem last week, I tried replacing the intake manifold gasket on the 1st 2nd cylinder side as the old one was leaking bad. I believe the leak was fixed.

Thereafter, when I was trying to re-adjust the idle speed and LBIs, the idle speed went down from about 900-950 rpm to about 700 rpm and then after about 30 seconds or so, it died.

I spent a few hours on the car today and have confirmed that the dropping of the idle speed was that I was running on 3 cylinders only. For some reasons, #1 cylinder was not fired.

I tried to eliminate the cause of that, by 1st checking if the 1st cylinder was clogged up. I swapped to a known good Dell 48, problem did not get fixed.

I tried to swap the 1st cylinder ignition wire using the one for the 2nd cylinder, no change.

I checked the distributor cap and found that cylinder #1 and #2 had corrosion on the brass connection inside. Swapped out with a new cap, no change.

Changed to a known good Unilite distributor altogether, no change.

Pulled the spark plug wire from #1 cylinder and stick a spark plug to check if the plug was giving the spark. Started the engine and the plug was giving spark.

Though the installed plug might have been fouled. Changed to a new spark plug twice, no change.

Any ideas what this could be?

[jl_1303]

An update:

I kept thinking about the matter over the weekend and felt that it might have been the intake manifold gasket (I cut using some thick cardboard) was not sealing properly. I took the manifold out today and match the manifold using proper fibre gasket. I used split washers to tighten the manifold to the head and was pretty sure that it would seal this time.

I started the motor and found that it did not help. Cylinder #1 was still not firing. Idle speed was about 680-710 and jumping around.

I then opened the valve cover and found that one of the valve adjusting cup screws of the Berg 1.4 ratio rocker, the one for the #1 cylinder exhaust valve, was broken and barely hanging on the rocker by the jam nut.

Also, the #1 cylinder cup screw for the intake was showing some knock damages.

My guestimate is that the jam nut for the #1 cylinder exhaust valve has for some reasons come loose and that caused the exhaust valve to close more often than it should. As a result, the proper air/fuel mixture of #1 cylinder could not be maintained (as the correct amount of air could not be drawn into the chamber), hence the #1 cylinder not being fired.

This is what I think happened. What do you think?

[jl_1303]

I replaced the 2 said cup screws with new ones, adjusted all valve clearances for the 4 cylinders, the #1 cylinder is still not firing.

Here is a summary of the problem:
#1 cylinder is not firing
-intake manifold gasket changed to ensure there is not vacuum leak (tested by spraying carb cleaner around the manifold), no change
-plug changed 2 times with new ones, no change
-plug wire replaced with a new piece, no change
-the Dell 45 was changed to a known good Dell 48, no change
-valve clearance readjusted, no change
-distributor changed to another Unilite, no change

One thing I do noticed, after starting the engine for this many times, is that I think when the engine is cold, #1 cylinder may have fired for a very short time, like less than 1 minute, as the idle speed was like close to 900 rpm was observed. However, when I tried to rev the engine a bit more, it would drop down to idle at about 650 rpm for a little while (1 min or 2) and died.

I am thinking about proceeding to measure the valve lift as well as compression test, but frankly I am running out of ideas.

Any other suggestions? Thanks for your help.

[MURZI]

It is possible you have lost the cam.....hence the excessive lash causing the rocker adjuster damage. What did the rockers on number three look like? Even a visual comparison of rocker movement from 1 to 2 should apparent if the cam has gone away.
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[jl_1303]

[jl_1303]

FWIW, I used Wisemann lifters with the Engle FK8 cam.

[MURZI]

Yes the cam could have lost a lobe. Did you use a ZDDP additive at break in? Did you do the 20 mins at 2000 rpm deal? This could also explain the high oil temps. Two metals rubbing together that are not in "harmony" will cause some heat. Did you have to screw an adjuster in way more than others ....less threads showing on top of jam nut? Did you have glitter in the oil? Grey sludge on oil drain plug??
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[[email protected]]

The last time I did this the W110 went flat.

[jl_1303]

Is Udo Becker Lifters a good choice for the FK8?

[neil68]

[jl_1303]

[quote="neil68"]

[neil68]

[quote="jl_1303"]

[jl_1303]

This morning, I tried to measure the valve lift with a dial indicator gauge, only to find that the scale o f the gauge I brought was too small for this exercise (the gauge only had a 10mm swing).

Anyway, I am pretty sure that the cam lobe for #1 cylinder has gone flat it has 3-4 threads of the cup screws off the jam nuts, both intake and exhaust, whereas the ones for the #2 cylinder has only less than, or barely, 1 threads off the jam nuts, on both intake and exhaust. The difference was pretty apparent.

At this pt of time, the only move I could make is to prepare myself to drop and tear down the engine, to replace the lifters and cam with new ones.

In that light, I have the following questions I need your help with:

1. Should I reuse the cam bearing?
2. Where can I buy a pre-notched FK8?
3. Should I go for Udo Becker lifters this time to play safe, or there are other lifters that you could recommend?
4. I read that Udo Becker lifters do not require breaking-in. Is that the case?
5. Should I use a new grand nut?
6. What other aspects should I look out for when I tear down the engine and put it back together after replacing the cam and lifters?

Thanks for your help.

[fivelugshortaxle]

[jl_1303]

When I was reviewing my stash of parts earlier today. I have come to notice something rather interesting.

I have actually 3 boxes of German lifters, NOS.

Of these 3 boxes, I did not notice until today that they are not the identical.
Both boxes on the left and in the middle are coded 113 109 309 D, but have different date codes. Left is dated '93, the middle '89. Both have a Weco logo
on the outside of the box.
On the right box, the number is 113 109 309 C and as the box is pretty tatty, I just could not find any date code on the box.

This is the inside of the 3 boxes. Notice that only the right ones are wrapped with a piece of paper with Wizemann logo on it. The other 2 boxes do not have any wrapping paper inside.

This is a picture of the actual lifter from each box. The photo may not be apparent but visually the left one and the middle one are very similar in color and are much lighter than the right one.

The profile for the left and the middle one are very similar, although not exactly identical, and very different than the one on the right.

This is view inside the top hole where the push rod rides. Notice the left/middle one are very much different than the one on the right.

Judging by the feel and precision of the pieces, I'd say the dark ones on the right are of better quality than the other 2.

Now I am not sure which ones the engine builder used for this engine build.

[fivelugshortaxle]

I think the black ones should be good.....not sure. Somebody here should be able to tell you more about them.
_________________
Good things come to those who wait.
2332 with lots of goodies....
Rotating assembly balanced by Brothers VW
4340 84mm crank
AA 94mm p&c' s
Total seal 2nd ring, rest are Grants
5.5 h beams
Magnum straight cuts
Steve Long XR310 on a 106
CB 1.4 rockers
CB Magnaspark 2 distributor
NGK D7ea plugs
A1 lowdown 1 3/4 with single muffler
Dellorto 48's with 40 venturies
Kennedy Stage 2 with Daiken disc

[Bruce]

[jl_1303]

[jl_1303]

[Downtown Brown]