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Multiple cylinders with no compression.
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MagmaJctAz
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure your tester works? How many times have you checked the "good" cylinder?

Did you make sure the spark plug holes are not cross-threaded causing your tester to only be partly threaded?

Regards,
Mike
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Somewhere in whole concept you are continually doing the same thing wrong..... You can not change piston and cylinders and fix (?) head and still have same conditions as before..... Unless you keep repeating same mistake in your processes....

Changing valve lash from .006 to .008 will do nothing to solve your compression problem and only make engine noisier, that alone should be a clue you are continually doing something wrong....

I really have to wonder if you know how to count cylinders and how to put proper cylinder at TDC to test leak down and have doubts about you tester.......

Are you sure you are bringing each cylinder up to TDC compression when you are adjusting valve for that cylinder...

I know it is brutal to hear and I apologies for that... You need help, time to find local VW Guru and enlist his help, because what we are doing here isn't working.... I know its brutal but we are not here and we can only respond to what you are telling us...

Dale
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HERC
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was starting to enjoy this.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This likely isn't going to change his results but I think it's important to tell him that staggering the ring gaps is important. I forget exactly what I was told before but maybe someone else will help me... No gap pointed down, one at 10 o'clock, one at 12 o'clock, other at 2 o'clock??
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I Ride Sand
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm.... go test your tester on a known good engine. any engine at all. if your daily driver is showing 0 compression, you know where the problem lies. also, if you have the engine together, why not try starting it?

Another option is buying a cheapo dial indicator. this is how i set my valves so there is no question they are closed.

1. set indicator on a valve i *think* is closed and set the dial to zero near the max end of its reading. this way as the valve opens, the dial will start to show the valve opening, hesitating, then start closing.

2. rotate engine until the valve opens fully, then then from the point it is at the max lift turn the crank one full turn. this will make %100 sure the valve is closed, period.

3. set the valve to .006 if using aluminum pushrods, loose zero with steel pushrods.

4. repeat on each and every valve. dont get lazy.

if your valves are set right, you have freshly redone heads, and new pistons, rings, and cylinders it has to have compression.
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HERC
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DrOnHoliday might be onto something.

In the first post, with warped cylinders, he said It was so close to starting.
Now, with new shit the same thing.
No sputter, no running for 10 seconds ?
Shit, if I went outside right now, drained my oil, crapped down my filler neck and filled it with lemon pledge, I'll still get half way down the fucking street before she even warms up.
There must be another couple of problems somewhere else.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you by chance split case and have cam out...OR did you put on new degree wheel pulley?

Dale
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Am I reading past the part where the new P&C's and the fixed head were installed and the engine wouldn't run still?
I'm not seeing where he tried to start the engine after that.

I agree with DrOnHoliday.
I watched a youtube video of a new exhaust install on a sandrail that exhausted smoke from the oil filler vent tube, and lots of it.
Smoked from the stinger quite a bit as well.

I'd have to try to start the engine with the new pistons and cylinders.
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HERC
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We are also totally bypassing the rebuilt carb and the compufire.
Have fire and fuel been established?
That motor has been cooked ,and probably not on Rotella t.
That cam may be round now with no lift or duration.
gotta split the case.
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I Ride Sand
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HERC wrote:
We are also totally bypassing the rebuilt carb and the compufire.
Have fire and fuel been established?
That motor has been cooked ,and probably not on Rotella t.
That cam may be round now with no lift or duration.
gotta split the case.


splitting the case will not do us any good. you can check for a flat cam without splitting the case. also, the chance of the cam lobes be COMPLETLY gone is nil. it will stop running before it is round and completely gone. a dial indicator on the rocker adjuster can tell boatloads of info without even pulling a head.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm afraid he might have hung himself by his compresion tester.
You can't start a thread like this and then just vanish!
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ORANGECRUSHer wrote:

You can't start a thread like this and then just vanish!


thats usually what happens.......
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HERC
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dunno.....I'd still split it to see what else the heat destroyed. Shit, I probably wouldn't even use that case.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the delay in response. I really needed to not even think about this project for a bit. Couple of points...I appreciate the very honest criticism because I am NO pro at this.
-I did not try and start the engine after new P/C install. Figured what was the point if no compression. (And I assume(d) that I have done something wrong and don't want to damage anything).
-The rings are staggered.
-I checked the compression with 2 different gauges, with the same results. I can check on a good engine though.
- I believe I am at TDC with aftermarket crank pulley. However I did not install the pulley myself. When I set to what the pulley says #1 TDC the #2 exhaust valve is in rocking position. I guess this is not exact enough eh?
-fire and fuel were established the last time I tried to start engine.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dcj63000 wrote:
Sorry for the delay in response. I really needed to not even think about this project for a bit.


understandable. sometimes its best to walk away for a bit.


dcj63000 wrote:
-I checked the compression with 2 different gauges, with the same results. I can check on a good engine though.


Hey, quick thought. how are you kicking this engine over to check for compression? I just realized that if you are trying to do it by hand you will never get a good reading. so just trying to nail down the variables, you are cranking this with the starter, right?
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dcj63000
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

correct.
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dcj63000
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

might as well ask. When the rockers are off the heads, the valves should be fully closed corrrect?
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72Pstroke
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They will be fully closed with the rockers off, but the rockers need to be on and adjusted to check compression. If the valves won't open to let air in, there is nothing to compress.
Tim
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dcj63000
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. Just double checking.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will need rockers for compression test..

You do not need rockers for leak down...

IF it were me, I would start it and run it put at least a hour on it then do compression or leak down text...

Dale
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