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Advice on starting point with 73 Bus
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just so you will know...

The problems is that most SVDA distributors can't be used with the Weber progressive clone carb that you have.

The carb doesn't provide for a vacuum signature that the distributor wants to see. That is probably why the previous owner put on the 009 on there.

I am sure someone on here can tell you how to deal with that problem.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
Just so you will know...

The problems is that most SVDA distributors can't be used with the Weber progressive clone carb that you have.

The carb doesn't provide for a vacuum signature that the distributor wants to see. That is probably why the previous owner put on the 009 on there.

I am sure someone on here can tell you how to deal with that problem.


After running several hundred thousand miles with a Holley progressive and 205p or 205s dizzies and never questioning if they were properly matched out not, I find it surprising that someone has come up with the idea that they won't work together.
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the new head installed and the engine starts up and sounds strong when revved up.

I paid the mechanic $150 to tear down and then install the head, I paid $225 for a couple of rebuilt heads but only did the one side that was hurting.

So now I am back to getting her running nicely(havent driven yet because there are many other things to fix and since the bus was stolen from the PO it needs some wiring fixed) I am very concerned about the fuel line and will make sure all is good before I take it out. I do not have a good exhaust system system either, looking at some options on Samba.

The guy I hired got everything going without a muffler (just heater boxes) and it sounded pretty snappy and loud... when I put the stock rusty, full of pin holes muffler on it sounded and felt sluggish, poor throttle response. I only could pay for the head install this month so I will continue with the help of you.

THIS BUS has an oil filter Shocked I have never owned anything other than a type 1 so that is weird... Oil change on the way. Once I get the fuel line issue fixed and the oil changed I will check for air intake leaks.. Once I iron out any leaks there may be I will get to tuning it.

I was forced into retirement a couple years ago, I am only making half of what I did during my career so I cant just buy parts anymore without authorization, it will take more time to fail Embarassed

Any thoughts that you have please let me know, this is the greatest club I have ever known. I am a couple of light years behind on donations as well, I am very thankful for what EB does here and for what you all bring.

A donation will be soon, this site is worth so much to me.


I love it!
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73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have posted in the stupid questions thread but I will try this one first...

I am making progress! I am slowly sorting out the engine timing. However, the engine idle speed goes up and down by itself which suggests to me that I have an air leak.

Am I on the right track here? I see no change when I spray the manifolds in the compartment but there is a hose coming from the carb base that goes to the brake system. The hose connects to a tube around the area of the back seat...

This may be STUPID question Hall of Fame material Embarassed
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73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That hose provides vacuum to the power brake booster or servo.

You may want to just plug that hose for now as you rule out areas of vacuum leakage.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you are describing is (hunting). Not usually caused by a vacuum leak. Unless the leak is opening and closing. Most times idle is to high and causing the distributor to advance increasing the idle speed. High float bowl settings and fuel pressures or dirty needle and seat can cause hunting as well.

Good Luck
Tcash
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy, that is a really good idea! THANK YOU.
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Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tcash, thanks. I forgot what the term was for this. I am going to block the hoses first and see where I am. The carb was new in the box when I installed it but that does not mean much.
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have taken care of the air leaks as far as I can tell, it idles without hunting anymore (had it running for 45 minutes) Drove it and it was fun. I cannot get my timing light to see the pulley mark after 2k rpm. I do not know what is going on with that but I know it is close!

I bought a HF Xenon bulb light for $35 and it works great at lower RPM.. I cannot see the mark after 2.5K RPM so I used my limited math skills and just set the dizzy that way.

It ran okay considering the carb still needs adjusting.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

therealfrogman wrote:

I bought a HF Xenon bulb light for $35 and it works great at lower RPM.. I cannot see the mark after 2.5K RPM so I used my limited math skills and just set the dizzy that way.


Did you paint your timing mark white? Pretty hard to see it if you haven't. Your light should work just fine, if not take it back and get another. I have super cheap $10 Sears light that I sometimes carry when travelling, works just fine.

IMO, you would be better off for now to static time the engine to 7.5* BTDC instead of trying the guess at the amount of advance the dizzy is giving.
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
therealfrogman wrote:

I bought a HF Xenon bulb light for $35 and it works great at lower RPM.. I cannot see the mark after 2.5K RPM so I used my limited math skills and just set the dizzy that way.


Did you paint your timing mark white? Pretty hard to see it if you haven't. Your light should work just fine, if not take it back and get another. I have super cheap $10 Sears light that I sometimes carry when travelling, works just fine.

IMO, you would be better off for now to static time the engine to 7.5* BTDC instead of trying the guess at the amount of advance the dizzy is giving.


Wildthings, I will take that advice and see what happens in the morning. I am making progress, the test drives today were pretty cool. Surprised I most likely will take the light back and try the cheaper one just to see if it works..
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings, yes I did paint it with white out, very bright.
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If someone could identify these wires I sure would appreciate it.. The bus was stolen and a start button was put in, the wires in the photo are part of a harness piece that looks like it goes to the back of the bus, my guess is that they are related to ignition.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


the red one is from a dual connection, there is a blue one and one more that I cannot tell what color it is, maybe brown, green? I am color blind, Red and blue I get but my eyes cant process the one in my hand. The connectors are the smaller type.

I have determined that these wires go to the BRAKE warning lamp, thanks for all the responses. Embarassed The dark wire seems to be black at any rate I hooked it up to what the wiring scheme says hook up black to, it really looks green or brown as far as I can tell, I have no way to test it because it looks like the bulb is shot anyway and the cover is long since gone.
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you guys tell me if this plug is too lean?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The engine sounds pretty good and it is good on the road. I have looked at examples of good and bad plugs but it is hard for me to tell....
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What the H*!! is wrong with the gasket on that plug? Doesn't look like it could possibly give a good seal.

The plug itself looks fine. FWIW, plug color is not a very good indicator of the A/F mixture with today's fuels.
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings, that is just duct tape wrapped around the socket to help keep the plug in place Very Happy So the plug is okay then??
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Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

therealfrogman wrote:
Wildthings, that is just duct tape wrapped around the socket to help keep the plug in place Very Happy So the plug is okay then??


The plug looks as good as can be determined over the internet,, but like I said color doesn't mean much with today's fuel.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to post the other plugs to compare too.

wiring diagrams
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt2.php

Good Luck
Tcash
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mikedjames
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
Just so you will know...

The problems is that most SVDA distributors can't be used with the Weber progressive clone carb that you have.

The carb doesn't provide for a vacuum signature that the distributor wants to see. That is probably why the previous owner put on the 009 on there.

I am sure someone on here can tell you how to deal with that problem.


It is worth checking. On a genuine Weber progressive like mine, there is a ported vacum spigot next to the idle mixture screw. That works for vacum advance with an SVDA distributor.

It is NOT the brake booster takeoff - for that you need a tube from the manifold.

You can tell which it is - a ported vacum will should not suck much at idle, increase with throttle and then die away at wide open throttle. The takeoff is a small hole above the throttle plate.

The manifold brake booster vacum will suck like crazy at idle. The takeoff will be a bigger tube from the manifold . If it is leaking vacuum the engine may rev up OK and then die after a few seconds at idle.
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, it seems as though the type 4 manifold plays a part in all this tuning, I talked with a (one of few) local vw guy and he felt like because of the manifold shape and intake path that there was a difference in (LUCK) tuning them. This thing is running pretty strong right now and has nice response...

May be wrong about all this and every situation is different but right now I am very happy with the way it runs. It pretty much loves being revved up Very Happy and on the street it does what it should.

I cant really take it out and have fun untill I get all the safety issues fixed.

I have the big brake port and the other little one is capped for now, the brake one had some leaks but I have fixed it.
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Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.
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