Advice on starting point with 73 Bus

therealfrogman · Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 2:35 pm Post subject:

I am working on my cooling system, tin, thermostat, etc and I pulled the thermostat off (it looked like it was expanded) cleaned it up and did a water test just squeezing it to see if there were any bubbles, I cannot see any bubbles. I cannot find any obvious cracks or holes either.

Here is a pic of it (I have read Ratwell and repair stuff) should it be more compressed? I am going to do the stove test tonight either way I would like an expert opinion.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Thanks
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

hazetguy · Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 2:54 pm Post subject:

Junk.
Take the bolt & washer off (its specific for that application), the nut and cable off, recycle the t-stat

busdaddy · Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 3:33 pm Post subject:

X2, nothing you can do with that.

Wasn't there someone rebuilding them that required the ends?
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therealfrogman · Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 5:33 pm Post subject:

Ratwell has a repair process I can try.
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50349

therealfrogman · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 11:15 am Post subject:

I do not have any substantial progress to report other than my attempt at repairing my thermostat was not successful, I have put all my tin back on regardless of that and have been working on air leaks. Things that have changed.

#1 Since replacing the air hoses (correct quality) to my brake servo and blowing evrything out before installing new air hose lines, my brakes now feel much different, they feel correct instead of being very hard at the pedal they are much softer and stop very well.

#2 After replacing the intake boots on the intake runners it seems I have less air intake leaks BUT they are still there slightly which baffles me. Spraying directly on the head side of the boots I still have slight rpm changes(Maybe some ove the carb spray is hitting the carb to intake manifold, the carb is new as well as the gasket (EMPI carb and gasket) the carb is tight, I will continue looking into this. I have considered using a thin coat of gasket (form a gasket) sealer on the insides of the boots, not sure if this is a safe strategy?

#3 Nothing to say technically here other than having half of the income I had a couple years ago has caused me to learn more before I just dump money into things. The progressive carb on a type 4 without having preheat is something I now understand fully, and why this is a problem.

#4 If I had even thought I may have a bus again I would have hung on to my Del DRLA 36's and installed them! Finding busses around here is not the norm, I just happened to know a guy that called me a while back and asked me to buy it...It took me another 8 months to be able to fork over $1300.00, I got it for chaep and there is no rust on it other than a small portion under the battery! It will run with the carb setup until I can get back to a dual setup.

#5 I have read and learned and it has been somewhat of a blessing to not be able to just buy things and try them, it is part of the incredible learning experience.

So I am done with the update but I have a qustion about the best flap position for the cooling flaps on the 1.8 type 4 engine... Without a thermostat right now I am guessing thst it would be optimal to have them in the position they would be in after warm up and if that is simply where they are naturally without a thermostat ?

I hope I am not saying to much to get to a small point but this is how my brain processes things. If I use my thumb and push the actuater forward to the front of the bus does that open cylinder 1 side or the other side?
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50349

Rig up a way to get preheated air to you carb and that will take care of most of the cold running problems and also disable the power valve and increase your primary main jet a size or two as I recommend in the Progressives Suck thread. These carb can be made to run well enough.

therealfrogman · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 2:01 pm Post subject:

Wildthings, I found a blog regarding this. The only thing that puzzles me is that the intake air is heated from a part of the engine so is this the same result as heating an intake tube?

As always thank you for sharing your knowledge.
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50349

therealfrogman · Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 5:00 pm Post subject:

I was really trying to understand where and how to tap into the heat from #1 but I was just baffled, the guy that put my head on left this piece of tin in a box with the tin I removed.... I found it a and it makes sense now, I feel pretty stupid after reading as many posts as I have and asking as many questions here and other sites as I have!

Dumbfounded or found dumb. Who knows? I have enough understanding now to approach this issue and make things better. I am a newby with T4 but saturation is on the horizon. Glad you all are here!
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

therealfrogman · Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 3:34 pm Post subject:

This might as well be in the SQT but here it is.... There is a short piece of hose coming from near where the engine and tranny meet, the hose is just hanging there Sad

I also have a leak but I do not think this hose is related to it. I cannot stay under the bus very long due to a bad back so I snapped a quick pic of it here I am. The left bottom corner of the pic where the end is so I would like to know its function and where it goes.

Thanks
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

busdaddy · Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 4:12 pm Post subject:

It's a drain for when the fuel pump diaphragm ruptures, it sticks into a hole in the front of the sled tin.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

therealfrogman · Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 4:33 pm Post subject:

busdaddy, is that thing the stock fuel pump? Can I remove it?
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

therealfrogman · Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 11:02 am Post subject:

I need to buy shocks for front and rear and my thoughts are "Will I regret buying Monroe shocks that match the stock numbers? I can KYB for almost 3 times the price, it drives like a boat right now! I am only concerned with getting it to original drivability, etc.

If there is any reason for me not to buy the lower price Monroe or if anyone has an option that would be better for a little more I would appreciate it.
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

Tcash · Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 12:17 pm Post subject:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=549967&highlight=monroe

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=206625&highlight=koni

The KYB gas adjust are working fine for me.
Tcash

therealfrogman · Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 6:04 pm Post subject:

I have ordered a set of KYB shocks and should be getting them mid week, at the same time I will be tearing into the brakes and getting that stuff done.

I will update soon. Very happy with the progress! I do not post everything that I have done but the bus is very comfortable and quiet when driving, it is getting safe to drive.

Thanks for all the help you have given me and all the links.
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

secretsubmariner · Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 7:01 am Post subject:

Congrats on the progress, for what it's worth, I found a NOS bus type 4 thermostat on ebay for less than $40 shipped. Well worth it.

Comin' right along!!
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI

therealfrogman · Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 1:49 pm Post subject:

Got Thermostat a few weeks ago and all is well (around $65 bucks) but I do need to mount my heater fan assembly... I got one that runs smooth but the seller could not provide me with bracket to mount it to the top of the EC.

Anyone have a picture of it? I could make one or do a MacGyver thing but I would like to do it as nicely as I can (and of course if you have one FS PM me)

Having fun with this project and life overall Very Happy

_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.

therealfrogman · Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 4:00 pm Post subject:

Okay, I have a 73 and I want to replace some steering column parts. It seems like the 1973 is unlike the 72 or 74, like the key position for instance. The bus was stolen before I bought it and steering column moves around and is missing some bushings, bearings or who knows?

I can drive it but the blinker/headlight switch cannot be tightened any more, something is missing. (I do have the U shaped inserts, there is a bushing or something missing) I have been looking through the classifieds and can only find 72 or 74 and later columns. Can I scavenge parts off other years to make this complete by any chance? The left arm on my column is for the blinker and the right one is for the headlight dimmer and windshield washer control.

Would a 74 or later assembly ( just the levers and clamp that holds them) work?

No big hurry on that (just finished installing shocks moving on to Brakes (and curtains)) Rolling Eyes

I have searched, but I have had no luck to this point. I really appreciate the time you guys spend helping as always, thank you ahead of time.

Bob
_________________
73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.

Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here.


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Advice on starting point with 73 Bus
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