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My weekend warrior 1970 baja bug build
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new balljoints were not equipped with zero fittings so I drilled & tapped the ball joints
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HERC
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's how you do it baby bubba. Brand new Cool
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER
Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZERK fitting, damn autocorrect.
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Then I removed the Zerk fitting from the original balljoint & installed it into the new one.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@ Herc & ORANGE CRUSHer, thanks guys.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got the upper arms with new ball joints installed
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Now on the lowers.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I finally removed the other beam clamp to relocate it, this is Arguably the worst part of this whole endeavor.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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The Thing lower arms were really rusty, the lower shock bushing had seized to stud & removing the balljoint tested the capacity of my press. Unlike the uppers (that came off the bug) & pressed out smoothly, the lower requires lots of pressure & when it finally yielded, the balljoint shot out of the arm with a bang & every thing flew everywhere. I had to use a torch & air chisel to remove the shock bushing.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fun part for me is the imperfect angles you need to match up when using the press on the ball joints.

Extreme exercise in patience for this monkey. Embarassed
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey OC, I use my bearing separator to support the trailing arm in the press.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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This allows me to press against the nubs on the trailing arm without them pushing the plates apart.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 2:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Now on to the lower spring pack, as I remove the pack I use zip ties to keep it together.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here is the spring pack with zip ties at both ends & on both sides of the securing dimple where I intend to cut
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 5:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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After tapping the spring pack on the floor a few times on both ends to square up the ends, I cut the pack in half.
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HERC
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. The difficult part is the placement of the new dimples. Once they're dimpled, they're dimpled and the crucial part is tightening them up and having the camber be where you want it.
I had some aftermarket leaves once and the dimples were off. When you'd cinch down on the grub screw, it actually pulled the arm out a bit. Hate when that shit happens.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TDCTDI wrote:
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And after installing the spring into the trailing arm & inserting them into the beam, I use a guide to drill a locating dimple into the spring pack.

Hey Herc, that was definitely a concern of mine, that's why I drilled a locating dimple in the beam while the trailing arm was installed & correctly located. I tried to include all the steps, but I've missed a few.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One can actually adjust the dimples in leaves by carefully disassembling the stack, keep the pieces in order, and hand file the edges of the notch in each leaf. It requires a sense of which leaf needs how much removed from which side of the notch. Drilling the stack as one piece is best done with a carefully setup jig to hold the stack tight and carefully centered. To do it right, the jig should measure from the outer dimple at the end of the stack to the inner dimple location to keep them consistent. Alignment should NEVER be done unless the grub screws on all the torsion leaves are tight.
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Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Now the spring pack is two, while I don't have a jig to clamp everything down, I install the spring pack into the appropriate trailing arm, tighten the grub screw, then install the unit into the beam, make sure that the arm to beam is the same distance & use a guide in the adjuster to drill a locating hole in the spring pack. From there I remove the trailing arm & spring pack (leaving the arm attached to the spring so that the grub screw ensures that the clamped portion can't shift & then use a pair of vice grips to keep the leaves from spreading while I use the countersink bit in the locating hole to make the dimple.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TDCTDI wrote:
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Now the spring pack is two, while I don't have a jig to clamp everything down, I install the spring pack into the appropriate trailing arm, tighten the grub screw, then install the unit into the beam, make sure that the arm to beam is the same distance & use a guide in the adjuster to drill a locating hole in the spring pack. From there I remove the trailing arm & spring pack (leaving the arm attached to the spring so that the grub screw ensures that the clamped portion can't shift & then use a pair of vice grips to keep the leaves from spreading while I use the countersink bit in the locating hole to make the dimple.


So there you have your jig... Exclamation
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Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.
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HERC
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool beans Cool
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