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My weekend warrior 1970 baja bug build
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes sir.
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& now they are one.
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HERC
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Someday, years from now, when were all dust, that piece will still be kickin around on some post apocalyptic bug. Cool
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HERC wrote:
Someday, years from now, when were all dust, that piece will still be kickin around on some post apocalyptic bug. Cool

I'm hoping so.
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Here it is after a little lovin from my new blast cabinet (on sale at HF for $199 & a 20% coupon, got it & the abrasive for less than $200)
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had my HF cab for about a year and it works. I just pulled it out yesterday and gave it a bath. It leaks profusely and deposits black dust all over my shop and that's with a vaccum connected. So I'm going to seal every joint with caulk and cobble together a filter water bucket for the vaccum. The invisible abrasive media dust constantly floating around the shop is neither good for you or your engines. Hope it works.

What kind of treatment are you gonna give that spindle now that it's all cleaned up?
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey OC, my cabinet had foam tape at all seams right out of the box (maybe as a fix for numerous complaints?) it doesn't leak a bit. I do like the idea of a water bath pre filter though, that'll cut down on clogged filters.
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Dammit, now it's too shiny! I thought about going loud & proud & painting all suspension parts bright blue to show my patriotism & then I thought about painting a rebel flag over the whole car in protest (removing a flag isn't going to change a damn thing) but that would just get the car vandalized. I thought about POR15 but it takes too long to cure & is very uv sensitive & is a bitch to work with while using & trying to overcoat (it is tough as hell & takes a lot to scuff). So I just used some VHT spray can "epoxy" coat.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks purty.

I feel the weld on the arm gusset could stand to be hotter, and that might be achievable with the 135 Handler. But for Nuk and other who might be tempted, I feel the 90 amp just wont make enough heat for that particular job. I've seen a few roll cages repaired at races with 110 MIG welders that came out fine. The thickness of that steering arm is just asking an awful lot. My 235 amp 220V MIG welder can do that job just fine. I would never use my HF 110 MIG for it though.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, you're right, I forgot about the HF welder I had, it was blue, I got frustrated with its performance & gave it to a buddy. Hey ENC, if you decide to take on your suspension, tack it together & let a pro stitch it up.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suppose I could tack it once I learn how to cycle the suspension and take it one of several places for completion, I have a few options there.
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 2:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll have to remove the spring pack, install the trailing arms, spindles & then install the upper mount of the shock & adjust the suspension so that the lower shock mount is just above the center of the eyelet on the shock & tack the lower hook in place. The upper one you'll have to install the shock the rest of the way, compress the shock (there again, Bilsteins have their own spring rate) & use a coat hanger or ratchet strap to hold it against n place while you tack the upper in place (the tack welds will need to be fairly secure so nothing moves especially when you release the shock)
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hows it going?
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TDCTDI wrote:
Hey OC, my cabinet had foam tape at all seams right out of the box (maybe as a fix for numerous complaints?) it doesn't leak a bit. I do like the idea of a water bath pre filter though, that'll cut down on clogged filters.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Dammit, now it's too shiny! I thought about going loud & proud & painting all suspension parts bright blue to show my patriotism & then I thought about painting a rebel flag over the whole car in protest (removing a flag isn't going to change a damn thing) but that would just get the car vandalized. I thought about POR15 but it takes too long to cure & is very uv sensitive & is a bitch to work with while using & trying to overcoat (it is tough as hell & takes a lot to scuff). So I just used some VHT spray can "epoxy" coat.


My cab had foam too which I had to put on and I was anal as hell doing it, but the foamjust isn't a good match for a year of blasting. I ended up using some regular ALEX sealant I had on the shelf. Goobered it into every single place there might be a crack or gap on the outside. The main idea is to stop the migration of dust that was getting past those foam seals. I haven't found out if it worked yet since I still have to set up my water bath filter.

As for your painting connumdrum, I was recently having all the same thoughts as you just laid out there. I used to be a big Por 15 proponent, but now it's just too much work. The answer; powder coating. Especially suspension parts which most will fit either in a cheap toaster oven or a retired kitchen stove. $50 for the starter powder gun from HF and your in business. I'm in the planning stages of building a walking oven right this moment so I can do my huge trailing arms for my buggy build.

And as for the glossy nature of your spindle; gloss is good on suspension parts because they stay clean longer. Just my opinion but it's true..
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gloss is good on suspension parts, I agree.

Chrome is not good, as the chrome plating process causes an effect called "hydrogen embrittlement". This is no problem on big ol' Detroit bumpers or bathroom faucets. But it IS a problem on parts which need structural strength. Suspension, steering parts, roll cages, etc.

Powder coat can be good, but masking areas which need to NOT be coated is VERY important. Threaded holes, spindle shanks, trailing arm bearing areas and link pin bores, ball joint tie rod and camber adjuster taper bores, Speedo cable bore, even the link pin pinch area on a front trailing arm can be a problem. Combo spindle shafts all the way to the bottom end; inside of the bearing housing, mounting face for the bearing cap and inside the bushing bore on a rear arm. When powder coating a beam, the bearing/bushing bore in the beam tubes and shock bolt bores can be serious trouble.
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Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes those are all things that you need watch for and to go even further since sandblasting is a perquisite those areas need to be protected from overblast as well.
That's the only thing about PC'ing that I find inconvenient is the blasting, but hopefully with better thought out areas for doing this and more efficient tools in the works I won't have to hate it much longer.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question, how much does a complete front beam weigh when its pulled off the car? The manual says to use a jack.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
Hows it going?

Hey ENC, I had to take a break from the beam, it seems that the little lady felt that laying 800 sqft of tile was more pressing than my dabblings with the bug. You will definitely want to use a jack to raise & lower your beam in & out of the car, I'm guessing 80-100 pounds if you remove the spindles & drums.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
Question, how much does a complete front beam weigh when its pulled off the car? The manual says to use a jack.


If you are just looking to drop the beam off a car or rail I suggest leaving the wheels on and lifting the front just to the point to where the tires are half loaded touching the ground. Remove your steering junk so it will pull right out then loosen the 4 beam bolts and carefully coax the beam off the frame head. If you can balance the beam with one hand(foot) and jack the front up more until the beam will clear the body then you can just roll the beam out and away on the wheels. Make sure the wheels are pointed the same direction or you'll be swearing. The beam will have a tendency to want to rotate backwards because of the leverage the weight of the trailing arms and shock towers have.
If your doing this on a rail, I'd say just strip everything off the beam you can or want and then place a jack under the middle of the beam and remove the clamps. With a rail you're more able to get your body over top of the beam which makes it much easier to just lift it off by hand. But if you are just wanting to get it off to work on the frame I would leave the wheels on and do what I said previously which is even easier on a rail.
An adult male should be able to handle lifting a complete beam. It's just the fact that it's up in a precarious position on a car. It's amazing how well the frame head will hold onto it after you pull the bolts yet one little nudge and the thing will drop like an anvil right on your foot or putting a nice dent in part of the beam possibly or screwing up the paint job. So yes a jack helps control the situation while it's up there in the front of the car and avoid any inevitable surprises.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, what OC said, that makes much more sense than trying to balance the beam on just the center of the beam while its trying to twist backwards because of the weight of the trailing arms.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you thank you, going to pick up a floor jack finally.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get some jack stands too! They can hold the car up while you're working with the beam.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a little more progress on the beam today, i got yet another hook attached to a trailing arm.
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Three down, one to go! Then I have to gusset the last spindle.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.
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