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My weekend warrior 1970 baja bug build
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here's an idea of the difference between the bug & thing components. (For those of us that haven't been on the forums until recently)
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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With both sides installed, looks like I left my old flintlock on the hood.
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msu530
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 4:49 pm    Post subject: wheels and tires. Reply with quote

What width rear wheels are you running and tire size? Bug looks great. Wanting to go with the largest size tires on rear of my buggy and still clear the torsion tubes. Thanks
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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A comparison of before & after
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks msu350, I'm running Yokohama geolander 31x10.50x15 on 10" wheels.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Drivers side of beam cleaned, welded & ground, not show quality but it'll do.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Until I get my adjusters and hook & rod kit, I'm limited to doing some of the more mundane things like replacing everything in the brake system.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TDCTDI wrote:
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Drivers side of beam cleaned, welded & ground, not show quality but it'll do.


That looks good. There's usually a lot of grit trapped inside that seam making it horrible to weld. I tried to TIG mine recently and it showed. Better job for the MIG..

Btw your trailing arms look a little shoddy. Those aren't those new chinese branded ones are they?? Laughing
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LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not only Chinese but they were chrome plated too! Lol.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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FINALLY! After waiting for several weeks for a local supplier to deliver, my hook & rod kit & torsion adjusters arrived from a mail order source in Cali in just four days. I can't wait to start modifying the beam.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you have the right amount of leaves man.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Well, here goes nothing. As stated before, I have decided to widen the beam by only 4", the width of just the two additional adjusters (2" each) per tube ( two upper & two lower). By placing the inner most edge of the adjuster at the center of the beam, that puts the center of the adjuster just 1" further in so I can cut the spring pack in half & re-dimple the spring pack but retain as much of the spring length as possible. Ill then cut the tubes at the other side of the adjuster, insert adjusters (upper & lower) & weld it all back together.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I used a pipe cutter from one of the big box home improvement stores to score a fairly true guide line around the tube. (it won't cut completely around or through.)
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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And then cut with my die grinder with a cut off wheel.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Now I've separated the left (drivers side) so I can insert the adjusters.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Since the adjusters are a slightly thinner guage than the original beam, Im going to use the spring pack to align the adjusters center point, this also gives me the exact reference point of the original location where the spring was located. I also beveled the edges of the mating surfaces to insure thorough weld penetration.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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From everything I've read, the thing front end has stiffer springs than a standard beetle & 3/8 inches of adjustment is all that's necessary, that being the case I decided to leave a little downward adjustment in my beam. (The 1/4" space between adjuster block & tensioner bolt.)
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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As dumb luck would have it, once I removed the torsion clamp, it was actually centered in the slot.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I picked up some 2" angle iron & 8 four inch clamps, I then cut the angle iron into two pieces.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I cut a notch into all 8 C-clamps.
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