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My weekend warrior 1970 baja bug build
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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That notch helps the C-clamp to not slip around as much on the angle iron.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just curious, have you had any prolblems with the threads on those adjusters yet?
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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The torsion tubes are now forced into the angle iron and make the tubes as straight as possible.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ORANGECRUSHer wrote:
just curious, have you had any prolblems with the threads on those adjusters yet?

Not yet, I place a wet rag over them to keep welding slag/spatter from fouling them. Are they known to be an issue?
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Be sure to avoid anything that may cause the angle iron not to mate directly to the tube. Such as the steering box clamp position tabs.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just had some cross-threading problems when I did mine a couple months ago which is why I replaced the old set. I think it was a combination of crap chinese meturgy and trying to fit everything together under tension which could not be avoided. I'd just keep doin what your doin and if you take the screws out again keep the threads lubed.

good work looks good
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ORANGECRUSHer wrote:
I just had some cross-threading problems when I did mine a couple months ago which is why I replaced the old set. I think it was a combination of crap chinese meturgy and trying to fit everything together under tension which could not be avoided. I'd just keep doin what your doin and if you take the screws out again keep the threads lubed.

good work looks good

Thanks for the heads up on the fasteners, I was thinking I would trim them down a bit but if they're subpar then I might source some grade 8 bolts, that would probably be easier than trying to adjust with an Allen key anyway.
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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After welding the two halves back together, I started the hateful task of removing the beam clamp.
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here's the clamp repositioned.
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Not being totally satisfied with the capabilities of my welder (or perhaps with my abilities) I transported the assembly over to my buddies at Henry's Muffler Shop & let the guys that weld hundreds of times a day to weld it all back together. You can do all the cutting at home, line everything back up & have a professional do the final welding.
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Now that it's all back together, I loosened the center securing grub screw & slide the upper spring pack out.
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here's the spring pack after cutting, I like to use zip ties to bind the leaves together to keep them together.
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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To make it easier to get the spring pack to slide into the adjuster, I like to taper the end of the spring pack.
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Then I install a new seal.
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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And after installing the spring into the trailing arm & inserting them into the beam, I use a guide to drill a locating dimple into the spring pack.
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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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After making the dimple in the spring pack larger on the drill press, i slathered the spring pack with grease again to protect it from rust (it's worked great for the last 45 years) & re-install the assembly into the beam.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2015 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like to wrap the spring pack with a zip-tie to hold it together while sliding it in. It will slide along the pack when it hits the adjuster or stock center anchor block.
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Offroading VW based cars since 1965
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Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2015 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dusty, I guess we think alike, the zip tie I used is barely visible through the grease just above the opening in the lower tube. Thanks for pointing that out, I guess since I'm doing a step by step I should be a little more attentive. Any & all pointers are greatly appreciated.
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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2015 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Dusty/Richard (let me know if you prefer Richard instead), my plan is to use two steering boxes with the one on the right serving as an idler arm & flipping the pitman arm on it to mirror the drivers side with a drag link in between. I'm going to use ford tie rods & ends. This will require enlarging the tapered seats on all the holes (thus correcting the tapered seats that will now be pointing downwards on the inverted passenger arm). What's your take on this as I'm sure I'm not the only one to have done this?
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Before sliding the spring pack in I clamped it together & dimpled it on the drill press.
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