IRS Transaxle Rebuild

Casting Timmy · Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 4:03 am Post subject:

Those 1.2 hubs can really take a beating, here are my rejects. The one is burnt from heat, I no idea how that happened.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The burnt one..... thinking it would make a good pinion shaft holder now.

The back side of it.

On a happy note, I did get everything I will reuse picked out. I will order everything Friday hopefully to complete the shafts. If not I still have to order more and can get it then.

mark tucker · Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 1:34 pm Post subject:

mark tucker · Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 1:36 pm Post subject:

yes those shims get the crap beat out of them, thus the tight 3rd clip to help keep it from happening .

Bruce · Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 2:47 pm Post subject:

Casting Timmy · Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 7:14 pm Post subject:

So I figured ivwould give an idea of cost on this for everyone. Replacing most of my bearings and using steel caged bearings that I consider an upgrade over the plastic cages will run my rebuild parts to around $500. This includes a super diff and a chromoly pinion bearing nut I have yet to order.

The pinion socket and press are a little over$200. I did have 5 transaxle at one point but considering three cost me $40. I have already paid for all 5 with selling certain parts and still have a bit of parts leftover.

So I consider this first trans build will cost me $700, which I think is pretty good for the transaxle I will have in the end.

Casting Timmy · Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 4:21 am Post subject:

Comparing to rancho prices, do they just do 10 main shafts in their transaxle? or is the hardened keys on Everett
Hing for advertising as people dont understand the 9 tooth shaft?

nsracing · Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 8:07 am Post subject:

You can send me those 'reject' hubs. I will pay the shipping. Very Happy

Bentleys are the only manuals you should have for rebuilding the Vw engines or trans.

Any galled surface can be re-ground smooth or machined w/ keen carbides. the hubs are soft. The gears are hard so where it contacts the inside of the hubs can be toolpost ground on a lathe or surface ground on a flywheel grinder or surface grinder.

I have never heated the case tunnel to install the pinion gear clusters. The pinion bearing has very small interference. you should have a dialbore gage to confirm the bore dimension if within specs.

Follow the book to the letter. later on when you gain more experiencve, you can mix and match gears or pinions or shafts or hubs or sliders, forks so on.

Go over a trans and just do a basic overhaul, inspect and clean up surfaces as able. install and see how that drives. Then do another one and improve upon from last one. repeat as often as able.

Maintain the clearances as specified. Too tight on the axial clearances and you will gall the hubs to the gears. Ask me how I know.. Laughing

There is nothing to it.

mark tucker · Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 3:29 pm Post subject:

stay on topic your the only one babbling about chevy &fords that I recall. just because these manuals are for vw dosent mean there written worth a crap.but I reckon if you dont no or haven't ever used a good manual than there the bees knees. sorry I hurt your fealings so enough of the pissing match.for the recordIve never used a chevy or ford manual..well probably corvette manual's. Yes timmy just the basics can add up quickly. thats why so many parts are reused when ever possible. from my experance if the shaft is still good& not burnt up most of the time needels will also be reusable, but always check them closely. I got a very small box from weddle and it was $250+ and that was just 3 idler gear bearings in there, shims,cr nut,clips,keys,housing & a few other small parts.I already had the ms&diff bearings.
I would not be so quick to be selling off spares as you may need some....and they will save a lot of $$$.If it dosent need replacing.....I had thought about dfl coating slider hub &possibly slider groove and 3rd gear thrust side to 2nd gear on shaft, but they dont appear to have any wear on mine( I did have one fork that was afu, but it was probably bent). I not sure if Ill use a brass fork or steel in this trans. it would of been much easier to do this in a day or so...if I had all the parts right hear and just need to do the machine work, but...life happens. There very simple like the engines, a lot easier than most automatic trans witch are easy to do,most issue I have is memory related..... and close to useless manual ....and too much other stuff going on. the braves/cubs game last night in Atl was great but hot as hell and a long drive.

Casting Timmy · Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:23 pm Post subject:

I am buying a lot of new bearing a for it as I want the steel caged ones with rollers done in singles and not pairs.

Another note is that you needs torque wrench that reverses if you use the factory small pinion nut holder and a homemade socket tool on third. Mine can only go one way so I have to figure out what to do next.

I really thought those hubs were something you can get new, but Weddle only sells used. Are they really that hard to find? I have one that doesn't need any touch up so I will use it and save the others.

Bruce · Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:43 pm Post subject:

nsracing · Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:46 pm Post subject:

The best hubs and roller bearings are from the 61-62 years. Hubs in those years are full teeth all the way around. I collect those for drag or hot-street applications. The hubs are not hardened at all but small amount around the teeth areas. You can easily machine them.

The needle bearings from those early years are the single row stack w/ either steel or alum cages. I collect those too.

I pick up the early trans nobody wants at swap meets coz those parts have all kinds of good stuff for really HD applications. Steel forks -skinny ones!

The trans build will be easiest if you have all the tools and jigs. I cannot emphasize enough on the jig to properly adjust the forks.

A trick I found to keep both clusters together before you introduce into the tunnel is to shift the reverse gear in place. This will assist you in aiming the slots into the reverse shaft drive. when it goes in, everything else is easy after that.

Don't forget to align the pinion bearing into the cutouts or it will get hung up.

on another note, I like the gear stacks that come from 71-72 bus....the 3rd/4th gears have welded dogrings from factory. Collect those too if you have a chance.

Casting Timmy · Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:57 pm Post subject:

Good tips there.

I think the single bearings would have less friction that the doubles. Is that true or just something in my head?

Casting Timmy · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 5:51 am Post subject:

I got some more work done this morning. The 1st gear I got .009 clearance with the first shim, so that was really lucky as I wanted to be in that area. 2nd I have right around .007", and am debating on opening that up just a hair more.

Luckily I remembered a friend gave me the old style torque wrench, so I was able to get that pinion nut torqued this morning.

I made this custom socket out of an old fine tooth third gear, and here is the torque wrench that doesn't reverse.

Then I pinged in the pinion nut in three places. I used some shims underneath to give support while doing it.

Not to bad for my first time I think.

I got really lucky and the first shim gave me .009" clearance with 1st gear.

Second gear is taking a little finesse to get the clearance where I want it, should hopefully finish up today.

Here it is in the press so I can measure it.

mark tucker · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 9:25 am Post subject:

how could ignor what vw did........it's the best info around Wink

poke poke.just messen.
I have the snapon version of that tqrench. iot has a rashit head that reverses but instructions say not to use in reverse, so how do you torque backward threaded bolts??with another tqwrench.
I did score on a dial 0-30 inch pound tq rench on fleebay for ding the rotating tq, I missed one for $35, but waited 2 weeks and got another for 35+10 ship.( It was a by now or make offer and had just been on there 2 days, no other offers, so he took my offer) the other one i had my eye on went for $130+.both snappon as I recall. I hope to be able to get back on my trans in a week or 2.

Casting Timmy · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 3:25 pm Post subject:

Sounds like you got a good find off ebay. I was getting so excited with doing the gear stack I'm glad I don't have the 3rd gear lock ring yet. Almost put it together without doing my turning torque in the case.

I need to take my cases in to get cleaned as that will be a lot easier for me that trying to clean here at home. I might have to put them in the back of my Jeep and see if I can run up there on my lunch break tomorrow and drop them off.

Casting Timmy · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 3:43 pm Post subject:

Here are some good threads on welding gears.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=336635&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=393130

mcmscott · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:00 pm Post subject:

Casting Timmy · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:43 pm Post subject:

Good point. I did it both ways and was checkin to make sure the synchro a didn't bind it up when added.

What do you think about .007 on second gear for a street machine? I am looking for a 160hp with my motor and want to build this to handle that.


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