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mcmscott Samba Member
Joined: March 12, 2010 Posts: 4857 Location: sanger ca
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 10:34 am Post subject: |
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I set the END PLAY on first and second at 005 to 008 on most t-1's. Mendi's go up to around 014. Set the fixed third gear on the pinion shaft to a tight zero. there is no adjustment to the fourth fixed gear. _________________ There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,
68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250 |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17290 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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Agreed. I never understood why VW specified clearance under 3rd gear's circlip.
The current trans I'm working on came up with 1st gear endplay at .004" This meets VW's spec, but I increased it anyway. Set it to .007"
How is the investigation going for the correct torque specs for the 3 bolts while in the shift fork jig? _________________
overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
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Casting Timmy Samba Member
Joined: August 04, 2012 Posts: 1221 Location: Kansas City, Kansas
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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The Bentley and the Long Enterprise both said 18 ft-lb, a couple quick searches haven't proven out. Thanks for the reminder as I need to get back on that. |
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Casting Timmy Samba Member
Joined: August 04, 2012 Posts: 1221 Location: Kansas City, Kansas
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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I did open another trans today, finally a really good reverse! people must hate reverse in these trans. |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2003 Posts: 4863 Location: Harmony, PA
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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I don't have it infront of me, but Bentley lists the 1-2, and 3-4 8mm fork bolts at 18ft. lbs., but the 7mm bolt of the reverse lever I'm pretty sure is only 11ft. lbs. |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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if you have the solid spacer why do you need the 3rd gear clip? what is the thrust washer between the small pinion nut& the 1/2 clutch hub for? keep the nut from fretting loose? or am I not seeing something?do you shim up there to tighten the 3rd gear circlip?...or use thicker circlips? should I machine the spacer so the 4th gear sits on it a thou or 2 before the gear seats on the pinion?? me building many automatics, this termanoligy on all this stuff& exactly what it's called or where it is well it's kinda lost in my head at the moment, like a bag of marbles with a few lost&broken. (slight terminology/location issue.....& too much shit non related cluttering my head at the moment, I need to leave this thing alone for a while). and need to make an order from weddle at the same time. |
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mcmscott Samba Member
Joined: March 12, 2010 Posts: 4857 Location: sanger ca
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 4:33 pm Post subject: |
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Early trans have a nut on the end of the pinion and use a steel spacer, as do all Weddle pinions. If you use a steel spacer on a late shaft, all the thrust force is controlled by the 4th gear snapring. The shim you are refering to is used to set first gear end play. _________________ There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,
68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250 |
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Casting Timmy Samba Member
Joined: August 04, 2012 Posts: 1221 Location: Kansas City, Kansas
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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Bruce, I found one manual that said 14 ftlbs for the shift fork bolts. It also has some neat homemade tools in it. |
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modok Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 26789 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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Casting Timmy wrote: |
I did open another trans today, finally a really good reverse! people must hate reverse in these trans. |
Always use a new reverse gear.
If the reverse gear is ugly you have to suspect the teeth on the slider are probably bad too. |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17290 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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Casting Timmy wrote: |
Bruce, I found one manual that said 14 ftlbs for the shift fork bolts. It also has some neat homemade tools in it. |
What manual is that? Authorized by VW?
Here's what I was getting at:
[email protected] wrote: |
I don't have it infront of me, but Bentley lists the 1-2, and 3-4 8mm fork bolts at 18ft. lbs., but the 7mm bolt of the reverse lever I'm pretty sure is only 11ft. lbs. |
Check the Blue Bentley. Torque specs at the end of the STUPID Auto stick chapter for the 4 speed! _________________
overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17290 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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modok wrote: |
Always use a new reverse gear.
If the reverse gear is ugly you have to suspect the teeth on the slider are probably bad too. |
Once in a while you find a good reverse. Like if the trans was rebuilt with a new reverse, then the car crashed soon after. Trans is an unknown core to the salvage guys.
Otherwise, I agree, the reverse is usually bad. But that doesn't mean the 1-2 slider is bad too. Inspect each tooth. _________________
overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
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modok Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 26789 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 2:43 am Post subject: |
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Well sure. Seasoned parts are better than new! Put it together exactly how it came apart and it will work great, but don't change anything!
It's just like cam and lifters. You don't mix em up.
And if halfway worn out, you can get new lifters and extend the life of the cam. |
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Casting Timmy Samba Member
Joined: August 04, 2012 Posts: 1221 Location: Kansas City, Kansas
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 3:47 am Post subject: |
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I really like everyone's comments.
Bruce, I see what you are talking about now. I will add the torque for reverse to the list.
Scott, thanks again for the end play and gear stack info.
Bruce/ Scott
What are your thoughts about a 10 tooth versus 9 tooth mainshaft for the street? Does the mainshaft only make a difference to drag racers, or do you want the 9 tooth shaft for hot street as well?
Also is a chromoly pinion nut worth it on the street? I think I remember reading they destroy the threads when taking them off or something, so some people didn't like them.
Scott,
You mentioned a different bearing to use when putting an old gear on the 002/113 mainshaft, I will do the 1.32 third in my late model gear box if I can.
Thanks
Tim |
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Casting Timmy Samba Member
Joined: August 04, 2012 Posts: 1221 Location: Kansas City, Kansas
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 3:51 am Post subject: |
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mcmscott wrote: |
Use early caged bearings. You will have to have 2 for third gear, You have to cut then in half |
Scott can you help me out some more with this one? How do I cut them and how do I do this part?
Thanks
Tim |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 9:45 am Post subject: |
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both the trans I tore appart have first gear thrusting agnist the pinion bearing race(big nut screw in bearing). and they both have sines of gaulding/wear there. SO is there an issue with me adding a shim there to reduce the contact speed if I account for the thickness of the shim? like machining the gear's thrust serface the same amount. and what thickness shim would be good? I have one that fits perfectly it's about .030 thick and hard(side gear shim out of a v8,s diff). and....what is the torquing procedure for the small pinion nut that tightens the pinion bearing?I seem to be brain dead or my bently manul isant cleare enough for the brain that are working.(Im used to crush sleves or shimming pinion bearing preload.) |
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mcmscott Samba Member
Joined: March 12, 2010 Posts: 4857 Location: sanger ca
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 10:02 am Post subject: |
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mark tucker wrote: |
both the trans I tore appart have first gear thrusting agnist the pinion bearing race(big nut screw in bearing). and they both have sines of gaulding/wear there. SO is there an issue with me adding a shim there to reduce the contact speed if I account for the thickness of the shim? like machining the gear's thrust serface the same amount. and what thickness shim would be good? I have one that fits perfectly it's about .030 thick and hard(side gear shim out of a v8,s diff). and....what is the torquing procedure for the small pinion nut that tightens the pinion bearing?I seem to be brain dead or my bently manul isant cleare enough for the brain that are working.(Im used to crush sleves or shimming pinion bearing preload.) |
Increase the end play on first gear with either a thicker first gear end play shim or machining the hub on first idler. I torque the small pinion nut to 160 lb. with red locktite. All the early pinion bearings used a thrust washer between first and the bearing, the later bearings and 091 bearings ommited it. _________________ There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,
68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250 |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17290 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 12:06 pm Post subject: |
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Casting Timmy wrote: |
What are your thoughts about a 10 tooth versus 9 tooth mainshaft for the street? Does the mainshaft only make a difference to drag racers, or do you want the 9 tooth shaft for hot street as well? |
It depends on your customer. If they drive like an adult, they'll never break a 10 tooth with 200hp. If they drive like a boy-racer, they'll blow up a 9 tooth with 100hp
Consider the cost. The 9 tooth is practically free since it comes in many late cores. With that, why not use the 9 tooth for the street? Here's an example of this: when you build a Berg 5, they have to extend the length of the mainshaft for the extra gear. It is absolutely stupid to send them a 10 tooth first, regardless of what engine is being used.
I have a customer that builds cars for adults. For 150hp and less, I use a 10 tooth. For 170hp and up, it gets a 9 tooth. I don't have a lot of core parts, so I don't waste the 9 tooth firsts on low hp cars for fear of being out of stock if a high hp car is next.
Casting Timmy wrote: |
Also is a chromoly pinion nut worth it on the street? I think I remember reading they destroy the threads when taking them off or something, so some people didn't like them. |
There's a lot of those nuts being used. If they destroyed the threads all the time, nobody would be using them. Sounds like you heard about an isolated case.
Unlike the stock nut, the chromoly nut is a new part that hasn't been on a bearing. IMO, you gotta check the threads carefully because it's new. File off the burrs. I also make sure it will spin all the way on without resistance before I continue with the build.
Low hp cars, not necessary. A recent build got one because I had it in stock, and the engine is a 2.5 liter turbo. _________________
overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17290 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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Casting Timmy wrote: |
mcmscott wrote: |
Use early caged bearings. You will have to have 2 for third gear, You have to cut then in half |
Scott can you help me out some more with this one? How do I cut them and how do I do this part? |
He's talking about using a steel cage needle bearing for 3rd gear idler on a splined mainshaft. Originally, the splined MS came with a plastic cage bearing (with shorter needles) that had a split so it could be stretched open. It needs this because the OD of the splines is larger than the bearing seat.
To use the steel cage bearing (with longer needles), if you cut them in half, then you can install each half as you slide the gear on.
Use the thin cutoff wheel in your Dremel to cut them. _________________
overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
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mcmscott Samba Member
Joined: March 12, 2010 Posts: 4857 Location: sanger ca
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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Bruce wrote: |
Casting Timmy wrote: |
mcmscott wrote: |
Use early caged bearings. You will have to have 2 for third gear, You have to cut then in half |
Scott can you help me out some more with this one? How do I cut them and how do I do this part? |
He's talking about using a steel cage needle bearing for 3rd gear idler on a splined mainshaft. Originally, the splined MS came with a plastic cage bearing (with shorter needles) that had a split so it could be stretched open. It needs this because the OD of the splines is larger than the bearing seat.
To use the steel cage bearing (with longer needles), if you cut them in half, then you can install each half as you slide the gear on.
Use the thin cutoff wheel in your Dremel to cut them. |
Exactly _________________ There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,
68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250 |
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gears Samba Member
Joined: October 28, 2002 Posts: 4391 Location: Tamarack, Bend, Kailua
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 12:27 pm Post subject: |
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Bruce wrote: |
Casting Timmy wrote: |
Also is a chromoly pinion nut worth it on the street? I think I remember reading they destroy the threads when taking them off or something, so some people didn't like them. |
There's a lot of those nuts being used. If they destroyed the threads all the time, nobody would be using them. Sounds like you heard about an isolated case.
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Yeah, it was a real problem back when this was a new product. I got tired of guys crying to ME because they'd ruined brand new pinion bearings by using someone else's pinion nut (3 different knock-offs, with Berg leading the pack). I eventually felt compelled to run this 1990 advertisement:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1066766.jpg
.. and for anyone who doesn't believe this problem could possibly occur with today's product:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1353654.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1353653.jpg _________________ aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com
Last edited by gears on Thu May 21, 2015 1:05 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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