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New (to me) 1965 1500 Variant S(!)
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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:

That's really odd. As far as I am aware, there are only three types of heater cables... early, 1966 only when they used the early control with the late heater box, and late.

Was there an early- early? The 1500 club geeks should know!


I think there was an early-early for the cars that used a knob on the tunnel for heat instead of levers but Mario has an ad for those cable as well and the in-car end looks totally different so I don't think it's a case of getting the early-early cable.

I wonder if it was one for a Beetle maybe that was mislabeled somewhere along the way? I have an e-mail in with Mario so we'll see.

I just am trying to see if anyone can point out how I'm the one screwing it up because that seems the most likely scenario. Granted this is not the most complicated of jobs but sometimes you need another set of eyes Very Happy
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
Tram wrote:

That's really odd. As far as I am aware, there are only three types of heater cables... early, 1966 only when they used the early control with the late heater box, and late.

Was there an early- early? The 1500 club geeks should know!


I think there was an early-early for the cars that used a knob on the tunnel for heat instead of levers but Mario has an ad for those cable as well and the in-car end looks totally different so I don't think it's a case of getting the early-early cable.

I wonder if it was one for a Beetle maybe that was mislabeled somewhere along the way? I have an e-mail in with Mario so we'll see.

I just am trying to see if anyone can point out how I'm the one screwing it up because that seems the most likely scenario. Granted this is not the most complicated of jobs but sometimes you need another set of eyes Very Happy


Yeah...Duh... I have one of those early-early cars with the tunnel knob so I shoulda knowed this.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you just need the next size up...707B.

1587MM.

http://www.vwispwest.com/311711707B.html
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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I can't find the heater cables anywhere in the parts book to confirm part numbers. What section should I be looking in?

EDIT: ok according to the ISP west site the 311 711 707 cable is 1295mm, which works out to about 51".

The 707B cable is 1587mm which works out to about 62.5" would be wayyyyy too long - that cable must be for cars where the heater flappers have moved to the heat exchangers.

My car has them on the body still (very early '65).

I'll have to measure what I have and see if it is 1295mm. It seems like it only needs a couple more inches to be the right length.
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Last edited by sjbartnik on Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
Thanks. I can't find the heater cables anywhere in the parts book to confirm part numbers. What section should I be looking in?


Should be in Group 7, IIRC.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ataraxia wrote:

Should be in Group 7, IIRC.


Thanks, found it.

OK according to VW, 311 711 707 should be the cable. That's for chassis number from 221 975 to 315 048 101 and my chassis number is 365 036 625.

The 707 B cable would be way too long. The 707 C cable is 1375/1389mm which is about 54 1/8" / 54 11/16" which actually might work (assuming '67 had the same kind of levers inside the car which I don't know). Looks like these started with the 1967 models.

So assuming Mario's stock was correctly labeled, that should be the right cable. I'll measure it out and see what the length is. If that measures out correctly, then I guess the next e-mail is to Keith to see if he had to replace the cable tubes or something weird like that.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
I'm back!

Been busy with stuff like this:

Finally on Sunday I did some wrenching.

I did this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Good info here on this thread! I'll be coming back to it once my '65 (that I have not picked up yet) it at your stage.

Observation... It won't move much if it moves at all, but the safety wire on your shifter set screw is negative... It should pull the head clockwise
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
ataraxia wrote:

Should be in Group 7, IIRC.


Thanks, found it.

OK according to VW, 311 711 707 should be the cable. That's for chassis number from 221 975 to 315 048 101 and my chassis number is 365 036 625.

The 707 B cable would be way too long. The 707 C cable is 1375/1389mm which is about 54 1/8" / 54 11/16" which actually might work (assuming '67 had the same kind of levers inside the car which I don't know). Looks like these started with the 1967 models.

So assuming Mario's stock was correctly labeled, that should be the right cable. I'll measure it out and see what the length is. If that measures out correctly, then I guess the next e-mail is to Keith to see if he had to replace the cable tubes or something weird like that.


Measure the cables you took out from the control lever end to the indent where the screw ay the flapper was set when you tightened them up. Add about 10mm from that point and you should have the exact measurement you need.

'67 on had the control levers moved back to the rear of the e brake area, and was the up- down lever style like a late Beetle rather than the side to side style- however, the hook in the lever end is the same, so they just may work.
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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bad news, my brake lights are acting up again already despite a newly-installed FTE switch. I noticed tonight I am getting intermittent activation of the brake lights - sometimes they come on as they should, sometimes they don't come on at all and sometimes they come on with a delay of several seconds after the pedal is pressed. These are the same symptoms I saw with the old switch shortly before complete failure.

So...maybe DOT 5 does eat these things?
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was reading in the repair book that the tubes that exit the pan are about 7cm long. If they're longer -that may explain why the cables are not working.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This image refers to trimming the tubes down if the pan is replaced - wouldn't hurt to measure them if you can't sort the cables easily.
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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update to the brake light switch situation:

I swapped out the dead brake light switch last night with another new FTE switch that I bought at the same time as the dead one. New one works great...for now.

I checked my service records and the dead one had only been in for a month before it quit! Less than 1000 miles too.

We have been discussing it on the Type 3 e-mail list and Jim Adney has asked for the dead switch so he can cut it open in an attempt to learn why the switches don't seem to last long with DOT5 brake fluid. So I'll send that off to him.

I've also reached out to the vendor to see if they can get some official info from the distributor or manufacturer as to whether these switches are suitable for use with DOT5 brake fluid and if not, why not?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

a good read on the dot 3/4/5 fluids
http://www.adlersantiqueautos.com/articles/brake1.html
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Tram
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
Update to the brake light switch situation:

I swapped out the dead brake light switch last night with another new FTE switch that I bought at the same time as the dead one. New one works great...for now.

I checked my service records and the dead one had only been in for a month before it quit! Less than 1000 miles too.

We have been discussing it on the Type 3 e-mail list and Jim Adney has asked for the dead switch so he can cut it open in an attempt to learn why the switches don't seem to last long with DOT5 brake fluid. So I'll send that off to him.

I've also reached out to the vendor to see if they can get some official info from the distributor or manufacturer as to whether these switches are suitable for use with DOT5 brake fluid and if not, why not?


Every time I have seen DOT-5 used in an older German car it has caused problems... even in the 1980s- 90s Mercedes model W123 W126 and W107 chassis cars.

Lots of people tell me I'm full of shit and this stuff is the greatest thing ever- but I know what I see.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

W1K1 wrote:
a good read on the dot 3/4/5 fluids
http://www.adlersantiqueautos.com/articles/brake1.html


That is a good read indeed; I've read it before, and it quelled any desire I had to use DOT 5 fluid. There are too many pitfalls for not enough benefit.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DOT5 would not have been my first choice but the car came to me that way and it wasn't enough of a disincentive to reject the car.

Not sure if it's worthwhile to switch back to DOT3 or DOT4, some casual reading would seem to indicate that I'd pretty much have to fully disassemble the system and flush everything out with alcohol. That would be quite a job with 6 wheel cylinders and the master cylinder to take care of.

There don't appear to be any other issues with the DOT5 in this car except for the brake light switch issue, and it seems to be only an educated guess that the issue is due to DOT5 - no one seems to have anything conclusive.

EDIT: I did just read something on a Porsche 356 forum where a guy said his brake light switch (same type as VW) failed 2 days after switching to DOT 5. Some mechanic somewhere told him Harley-Davidson uses DOT 5 in their motorcycles and some Harleys have pressure-activated brake light switches. Guy went out and bought a Harley brake light switch, it threaded right into the Porsche master cylinder and has been fine ever since. So maybe that's my next experiment Very Happy
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just talked with a coworker, who in the past worked several years for Harley-Davidson in Milwaukee, in several capacities. He says that Harley once used DOT 5 fluid, but has not done so since 2006. He says they stopped using it because the lubricity of DOT 5 is poor, and caused binding and premature failure of too many calipers.

He is a VW guy, having owned several over the years and currently owns a nice 73 Thing. He confirmed that a VW brake light switch will interchange with those used on Harleys, but he doesn't know if there's a problem using DOT 5 fluid on a VW switch.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah the info I found shows that they switched to DOT 4 in the last few years, but point being the brake light switches they're using should be good to go with either DOT 4 or DOT 5. I checked the parts fiche for a bike in the DOT 5 years and the switch is the same p/n as the one for the DOT 4 years. Will be worth a try I think, they are about the same price as the "high-end" VW switches.

Thanks for checking with your buddy, that's good info.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK so I've been researching this some more. Some of the Harley guys also complain of short life from the brake light switches but that seems mostly due to heat as the switch is located quite close to an exhaust pipe (this switch we are speaking of is the rear brake switch which is mounted near the right side footpeg rather than the front brake switch which is mounted on the bars).
Obviously heat will not be an issue if used on a VW.

Some guys have also said that the aftermarket switch made by Accel is built better than the official HD switch and they get more life out of it. Apparently the Accel switch is USA-made while the HD switch is of indeterminate origin.

So I've decided to order both!

I ordered an HD switch from the DOT5 years which is part number 72023-51C.

Then I ordered the Accel aftermarket switch, which is Accel p/n 181101 - this is available on Amazon.

Then I can do some unscientific experimentation when/if the FTE switch installed currently fails. So far it's still working.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, these guys came in the mail today: Very Happy

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last night I filled up the tank after what has been pretty much exclusively city driving and recorded 20.2 mpg. That seems more on par with what I should expect to see in city driving I think.

(Also it's about the same as what my GTI gets in city driving though of course the GTI is about 1200 lbs. heavier and produces about 146 more hp).
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