Found out what locked the motor up.

[4campn]

Ok got the ol girl torn apart tonight. Number 3 connecting rid bearing melted. She was ceased on there on pretty good. The crank is torn up and the rod probably needs replaced. What could have caused this? The bolts was very tight seemed like more than 30 ft lbs. everything else moves freely though.

Here is how it looked when pull. All the tins that I have are attached still.

This is number 3 piston

Not sure but I think this means they are bigger pistons.

Here is the scaring on the crank

Trying to ID the engine these are the only numbers I can find. Just to make sure I order the right parts.

So now what. Where's a good place to get things for the rebuild. Are the 20$ full engine gasket kits on eBay any good cause that seems very cheap. I know we need at least a crank and connecting rod along with rebuild things.

[Jeff Geisen]

I would suggest not putting that Chinease fan shroud back on. Change the oil often after the rebuild. Missing tins contributed to the engine demise.

As well, I suggest changing the fuel pump and pushrod if you re-install the alternator.
_________________
I Corinthians 4: 1 thru 5

‘63 ragtop - ‘68 single cab

[madmike]

Lack of Oil!! was/Is the issue!! get a deep sump
_________________
'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[Randy in Maine]

Is your goal to make it run reliably for a long time?

[SGKent]

that rod and the others should be resized, Let the machinist decide it it needs to be replaced, I've seen far worse. Post a good photo of the crank journal.

Also - plan on replacing the oil cooler as you will never get all the metal out of it.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[4campn]

The oil levels was just fine. I checked them maybe an hour before this happened and after still normal. So not sure if that's it or not.
I did plan to replace the oil cooler for sure. Our plans and goals for the bus is to be able to daily drive it make long distance trips too as well and keep for a very long time.

Wouldn't mind a little extra power out if her too. With that said what if we choose to would be a good idea piston wise to go to? Or stick with what we have?

If I can get out of work on time I'll try and take the crank in to get looked at as well as get the block cleaned out.

So we have the heater tubes but no boxs going to try and find the tins to help keep her cool that's for sure. What's up with the fan shroud seems fine.

[Brian]

The fan shroud is bad because it doesn't have direction fins on the inside. You don't have heater boxes, you have what we call J-tubes.

Buy all of your tin here: http://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/

Ask him about the T4 cooler mod, it's worth it.


I would either get a new 1600 or try your luck at a stroker. 2110 is what I rock and I will never go lower. But be careful and have someone else build it.
_________________
Wash your hands

'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter

[busdaddy]

[sjbartnik]

[Wildthings]

Wow, you have a second rate shroud and no rear tins. I am actually surprised it is a bearing that went verses top end problems. I am going to suggest that the oil started foaming causing a loss of oil pressure, why it took out only one bearing is the mystery.

If you don't want to hook your heat up ever then find a shroud for a T-181/ The Thing, but if you do want heat then get a dog house style shroud with all the bits and pieces for the dog house. For either make sure you also have all the bits and pieces for the thermostat flaps. The mid 70's Beetle shrouds with the venturi on the fan entrance are supposed to flow a bit more air and can't be totally blocked of as easily. Other may give you better info here.

[SGKent]

three common reasons for failure are low oil, overheating of piston #3 on a bus without a dog house causing less lubrication on #3 and more heat on that cod and bearing. Sometimes being a little low on oil on a hard winding road may cause aeration of the oil as the pump sucks in air occasionally. Any air that gets sucked in goes out the rod bearings. That one has been going on for awhile.

Another cause on an old engine, and it would not surprise me on that one, is most people look at a used connecting rod during the prior rebuild and say, looks ok to me and they reuse it when rebuilding the engine to save time and money. One must clamp the two haves together in a special vice that hold the sides parallel, then torque it, then use a special bore gauge to measure it. They grow and go oval over time. Only the machine shop is going to be able to say if the connecting rods are to size of not. Sometimes on a lower mileage motor you can look at the back of the bearing and see if it has been stationary or working. If there clear shiny spots on the back then it has been working in the bore in the connecting rod. Same for a main bearing.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[sjbartnik]

[ToolBox]

Lose the power pulley too!

[4campn]

[4campn]

[4campn]

[4campn]

Another note I do not plan to just use the old rods if no good. I'll have a shop check them out. The power pulley I see all the time on many applications so don't see no reason to lose it.

[sjbartnik]

[SGKent]

power pulley on a bus is not a good idea as the prior poster explained. You need all the cooling you can get in a bus. On a sand rail you can run a power pulley.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]