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KotaSarver Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2012 Posts: 28 Location: Bremerton
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Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 4:58 am Post subject: Finally fixing my 82 rabbit. (Head&Body) |
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Victim: 1982 VW Rabbit 1.6L Diesel
I will take you along my noob journey and asking you guys questions of fixing my head gasket, and doing a square to round headlight conversion, doing new front panels due to my crashing into a pole.
First things first, Ive taken my camshaft off, and figured out I have the Allen head bolts. What are the proper procedures to taking out these or any head bolts, and can i re-use these bolts, or should i use the star pattern bolts i bought for replacement? |
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Old n' slow Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2012 Posts: 619 Location: Western Maryland
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Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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I think 82 still had regular head bolts that can be reused, later models used Stretch bolts that must be replaced every time. It should be easily searched online. Check trueness of head with a straight edge they warp if it was overheated. If it's got lots of miles replace exhaust valve guides at the least. _________________ Currently own : 1969 Beetle w/ 1600cc, Single Port, Solex 30 PICT 2, Dist. 113 905 205 T, stock exhaust.
All my daily drivers gone but not forgotten;
1964(sunroof)1967 & (2)1968 Beetles , 1968 Squareback , 1963 (23 window )Deluxe Sunroof Bus , 1969 Westphalia camper, 1974 Dasher , 1985 Vanagon , (2) 1981 Rabbit Diesels & a 1991 Jetta Diesel . |
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KotaSarver Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2012 Posts: 28 Location: Bremerton
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 12:51 am Post subject: |
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Thanks a bunch. This is my first real project and im excited. Ive got a Bently guide coming in, and also have ordered the valve guides. after i was getting coolant in my cylinders, i had to drive home with it, about 7 miles. i coasted with the engine off as much as possible, can i expect to see warps? and start looking for a new head? |
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Old n' slow Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2012 Posts: 619 Location: Western Maryland
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 3:51 am Post subject: |
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My experience was everytime I overheated from, blown heater hose, stuck thermostat, etc. I warped the head. VW recommends NOT TO MILL HEAD but everyone wet mills them anyway. It all depends on your money situation. You can't beat a $600 new head but that's a lot of money. If you are on a tight budget, wet mill head if not too warped, install exhaust guides and lap all valves in and then hope for the best. Use a German head gasket also.
Re ringing and rod bearings are easy in the car jobs while you have the head off....something to consider also? _________________ Currently own : 1969 Beetle w/ 1600cc, Single Port, Solex 30 PICT 2, Dist. 113 905 205 T, stock exhaust.
All my daily drivers gone but not forgotten;
1964(sunroof)1967 & (2)1968 Beetles , 1968 Squareback , 1963 (23 window )Deluxe Sunroof Bus , 1969 Westphalia camper, 1974 Dasher , 1985 Vanagon , (2) 1981 Rabbit Diesels & a 1991 Jetta Diesel . |
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KotaSarver Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2012 Posts: 28 Location: Bremerton
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 4:55 am Post subject: |
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Hmmm, well I could certainly get a new head in 2 weeks. again, I am very new to all of this, I have thursday off and will be taking the head off and looking at it. are there other parts I need when replacing the head? keep anything from the old one? I have no idea what getting a new head involves. thank you again for helpin me out thus far |
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ps2375 Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2014 Posts: 2471 Location: Meridian,ID
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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First tool should be a Bently Manual. |
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Old n' slow Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2012 Posts: 619 Location: Western Maryland
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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Rebuilt heads run $400+ , most places want your rebuildable head so if you go the rebuilt route don't dismantle the head, they probably won't take it as a core and you'll pay more. There are many VW head specialists, Parts Place Inc. in Warren MI is just one of many places to get VW diesel parts and advise.. _________________ Currently own : 1969 Beetle w/ 1600cc, Single Port, Solex 30 PICT 2, Dist. 113 905 205 T, stock exhaust.
All my daily drivers gone but not forgotten;
1964(sunroof)1967 & (2)1968 Beetles , 1968 Squareback , 1963 (23 window )Deluxe Sunroof Bus , 1969 Westphalia camper, 1974 Dasher , 1985 Vanagon , (2) 1981 Rabbit Diesels & a 1991 Jetta Diesel . |
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damac Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2012 Posts: 19 Location: sacramento,ca
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2015 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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saw this thread by accident, not sure if you will be going deep in bodywork?
i have a 79 rabbit diesel that has rounds and am kind of doing a respray but trying to minimize work by not doing the backsides of the fenders, where it won't be seen, etc.
of course things were worse than i thought once i pulled a fender off to prep. what i thought was going to be a simple sand and prime, etc. for repaint, i have found all sorts of issues.
it looks like i have vw stamped fenders. i see lots of the seam sealer goop and thick down below. mine is very thick, streaky and orange peely. i assume this is like in other areas and was globbed on without care, and probably extra thick on this wear and tear area because i see it lower on my core support as well, and then they painted over it?
i live in cali but found areas where the sealer was broken through to metal and could pick it off in those areas, surface rust, etc.
im guessing because of the wear and tear under there and the bent lips that they did this by design and it might not even be a good idea to make the panels flat, epoxy, then paint, etc.
im curious what the new panels look like vs. the old? probably bare without any of the sealer?
curious as well what the "right approach would be and whether or not all the goop should be reproduced whether its on new panels or fixed in areas not sticking like in my case. |
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