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svswan
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

narendra.vw wrote:
Wow, van has a rear stabilizer rod. Cool That’s a bonus while cornering.One Mod is saved for you.
More pic of it’s mounting please. Thanks


I have one handy

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


if you want a better shot of the frame mounts let me know. I havn't pushed it much yet though it seems pretty solid on on ramps and such. I did fishtale the thing last time it rained here, that worked pretty well ;-}
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svswan
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 5:16 pm    Post subject: a1 electric MES locking and alarm stuff Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
This is one of the best sorted out modified vans I've seen in person. The PO clearly put some thought and time into the effort. I don't know anything about those engines, but the IC seems to be pretty ineffective in that location.


why, Thank You ;-} I still wonder if I should have held out for a TDI, but they are hard to find in this shape at this price. At least, I did not find one in my casual searching over the past couple years.

On another note - here is my MES kit,

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


looks pretty much the same as yours. Still planning on trying to install the front two actuators with the A1 harnesses and then adapt the original rears and existing harness like you suggested. Going to see what I can get done this weekend.
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svswan
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

seventyfo wrote:
FWIW my Rancho rebuild has leaked from the selector shaft seal from day one. They sent me a new seal because I didn't want to take it out and send it back but the seal didn't stop it. It's not really a leak, just a little wet around the selector shaft, I finally just accepted it.


That's good to hear. I can accept it just fine if I know I don't have to check the fluid every month... It's also good to hear it's ~fairly~ easy to pull the seal with out pulling anything else, though I try your trick Casey.
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svswan
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Merian wrote:
seems an odd choice of torque curves, but am curious to hear your driving impressions


I tend to think something with some lower end torque would make better sense, especially if this thing was loaded down a bit like a camper. For weekend get aways and jaunts down to Cali from the PNW it should prove pretty fun though. I have no problem passing on the freeway. Suppose I could not walk a Mustang or a Camero or something like that but you don't pass them as often as Buicks ;-}

I do plan to try pulling a small aluminum sided trailer with a cap on it. I go to a festival in the NV desert every year (burning man) and currently take a 1970 22' Shasta out there with my '96 ford superduty 4x4. It would be nice to downsize. My truck is set up to run on veggie oil though so it might be more work but it cost a fair amount less to drive that out there. I'll post what I think of it's towing capability when I try.
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svswan
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

trbowgn wrote:
As far as the intercooler, what would you guys suggest for a better location? Side mount like Ford use to do on the Thunderbird Turbo Coupe?


Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
An air to liquid IC would be my choice. That way the core could stay in roughly the same location, but the heat exchanger could be moved forward to gain access to more airflow.


danfromsyr wrote:
water to air is the best (IMO) but most complicated system.


Gizmoman wrote:
I have a WAIC on my AAZ Shocked ...I tried the small exchanger and fan concept. As was mentioned previously, it was loud and not welcome late into a camp site. Also embarrassing at stop lights...


lloydy wrote:
Have a search for a Subaru Legacy charge cooler, they are designed to go in the same location as you intercooler. Could well be a plug and play option with the added bonus it was designed by subaru for your engine.


thanks for all the good info on this I figured the IC is not in an optimal location. I don't really want to vent it though the hatch either, so I like the idea of a WAIC. Though I wonder if I could pipe it to a better location... I am going to keep an eye out for a used Charge Cooler, a good deal on that would make it an easier job to tackle ;-} I'm going to sort out the easy stuff first though (door locks, crank window, a door seal, shifter guides, better brakes, house battery, etc) then get into making the engine perform better. Hoping I can get more than 20mpg out of it.
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svswan
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 6:26 pm    Post subject: centric g60's Reply with quote

On another note - after reading most of the threads on brake upgrades I chose to go with G60's from a V8 Audi. Local Pick Apart didn't have any and I found a listing on eBay for a Centric re-manufactured G60 caliper. Christopher from T3 claims to have good experience with Centric so I thought I would buy them. could only get the left front on ebay, found the right on amazon. Both were whitin a buck of $82, core charge and mounting bracket included.

Here is what I got from 'chasinparts' on ebay - part number 141-33062 (didn't realize the picture was sideways - sorry)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


He claims Centric mid-labeled the part. Notice it came in a Beck Arnley box marked 'valuable core'. He is refunding me and paying for shipping however.

Here is what I got on Amazon - part number 141-33061

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


all pretty and clean with two pistons and a mounting bracket.

It'll be a bit before I get these installed. gotta find some used rotors, turn them down and replace bearings, fab up some adapters and then get Audi rotors and shoes + apparently early bug braided lines. More to come later on that.
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narendra.vw
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

svswan wrote:
narendra.vw wrote:
Wow, van has a rear stabilizer rod. Cool That’s a bonus while cornering.One Mod is saved for you.
More pic of it’s mounting please. Thanks


I have one handy

[img]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/13[/img]

if you want a better shot of the frame mounts let me know. I havn't pushed it much yet though it seems pretty solid on on ramps and such. I did fishtale the thing last time it rained here, that worked pretty well ;-}

Thanks. I wanted to know the rod end fitting to the lower arm & I got it. Thanks once again. I'm sure, you will love cornering.
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 10:53 pm    Post subject: heater cable bent Reply with quote

I went out this afternoon to start looking at installing the MES keyless system, but tackled the heater problem instead.

In a picture at the beginning of this thread I showed how I could only move the heater control lever so far. I figured out how to pull a few things off the dash and found a bent wire ( you were right Casey)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I traced the cable to where it goes through a rubber plug to below the floor. I crawled under the front of the van and it tried to eat me!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I found where the cable attaches to a valve in the hot water line. can't really see the lever on the valve but I was able to shut the valve off all the way. Not too easy to move so I didn't know if it was cable stiction or valve stiction that caused the problem.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It looks like the fan motor has hose fittings... does that mean it could be powered by coolant, or pump coolant? The valve to shut off the coolant flow is up next to the pump motor.

I went back up and pulled the cable out of the dash then straitened the wire with some lineman's pliers (big flat jaws on lineman's pliers)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I could move the cable in and out, but it was toughf. It looks like there is a lot of room in the housing for the cable, though it's actually a metal rod, to move in. There are little clamps made to grab the end of a cable housing and allow you to spray lube into the assembly, but I don't have one. So....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I found my can of graphite lube and taped the straw up against the end of the housing, wrapped a rag around the whole thing and gave it a good squirt. Moved the cable in and out a while and it loosed up a little. Gave it a shot of WD for good measure and it might have got a bit more loose. I couldn't find the silicon spray. I guess the valve is a little tough to actuate. In the hope that it would help keep the cable wire from bending again I cut the head off a small nail and taped it over the bent section with some good electricians tape, checking to be sure I could still get full actuation from the cable.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It's a cheesy patch, but without another cable I figured it was worth a try. After figuing out how to route the cable back in I tightend the clamp (nut is right behind a piece of the dash, not pointing towards an opening...) I found I could actuate the lever/valve without trouble. Put everything back together and took it for a spin. After the engine was up to temp I could still not feel heat out the vents - ahhhhhhhh ;-} Sucks to have the heat blowing mid afternoon on a sunny warm day.
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, you just dove right into one of the more unpleasant jobs on a Vanagon. If you still find that there's heat coming out of the vents, one of the mods guys do is to install a metal shutoff valve to prevent internal leakage inside the factory slider valve from getting through to the heater core during the spring/summer months. My van has this same problem
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'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

during my short test last night I didn't feel any heat coming out. I adjusted the clamp on the cable housing so the lever would push the cable in to where it stops hoping that would shut the valve completely. I did see a post where a valve was mounted under the body to shut off coolant flow. I thought an electric actuated valve would be cool so it was easier to turn off an on. Have to drive to Tacoma tonight to DJ and I'll see if it heats up then.
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As an aside, it looks like your lower clutch slave bracket is missing the bolt that attaches it to the trans case. If your clutch feels a little squirrely, this might be the source.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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svswan
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ack - didn't know to notice that, thx. I'll look for someone parting out a vanagon.
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might just be that the bolt backed out...or it snapped. Either way, it's just an 8mm x 1.25 bolt
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get it, your talking about the stub a metal with a hole and not bolt ;-} I took a look and there is a bolt in the bracket just above the exposed bolt. I'll look closer later. I was focused on CC when i looked -

Your idea worked! Back story, Hula had cruise control when she was born but I guess during the engine transplant cruise was not reinstalled. In the area where the CC pump was suppose to be there is still the wiring connector and a plugged vacuum line. Casey pointed this out to me when I visited him. He also gave me the idea on how to fix it. I went to a local Pick Apart and grabbed the vacuum diaphragm/ cable off a 90's subby. I looked around for a 90's VW with the pump / control unit but could not find one. I stuck my nose in a few Audi's and figured out the piece I was looking for was under a washer bottle at the drive side front of the engine bay.

I mounted the control in the general location of the original and plugged in the harness. I mounted the vacuum diaphragm on the lip just underneath the back of the hatch and connected the two via a single vacuum line and laid the cable into the throttle. It works! I didn't connect the vacuum line laying plugged that I assume comes from the brake and clutch peddles but the CC still turns off when I press either peddle. I'll check into that more later. I must of eaten something bad and have not felt good for two days now. Had to get up and do something though, board stiff ;-}
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course she didn't want to give up that van. If it had cruise control she wouldn t of. Thanks for the tip on the cc control unit, good one. Do you recall what Audi it came from? Congratulations, your rig it is sweet and getting better.
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BavarianWrench wrote:
...Do you recall what Audi it came from? ...


thx B. Wrench ;-} I didn't look to ID the car. From what I understand, the control unit is essentially the same for later 80's and 90's vw's and audi's. It was a mid sized Audi from the mid to late 90's based on the shape.

Here are some pic's. This is the actuator. I didn't look at the part number, but when I get back under the rear deck I'll note it and post it. Though I think if it looks like this it will work -

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The diaphragm and cable I pulled out of a late 80's / early 90's suburu

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I could not mount the actuator in the stock location because there are now oil cooler lines passing trough that space. I used the bracket I pulled from the audi and bent one of the folds strait, re-drilled the holes for the rubber isolaters that hold the actuator (I turned the bracket upside down from stock also) then mounted it next to the cooler.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


this will give you reference if I didn't describe location well

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


a close up of the diaphragm

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Still need to route the vacuum line better and get an extra piece of hose wrapped around the throttle cable and anything else that touches something else.

does anyone know why the CC will disengage when a peddle is pressed even if the vacuum line from the two peddle switches is not connected? I go the impression the vacuum lines were what cut the CC system from a vid by Ken at Van-Again I found on youtube. My van has vacuum lines coming off the brake and clutch peddles. Maybe later vans had an electronic interupt.
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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

newfisher wrote:
... I prepped and sprayed the roof with linex then immediately shot it with the base color and clear. Made a huge difference in the tin top noise at freeway speeds...


Hey Newfisher - I just checked out the Line X website and saw that they have a new version for 'body armor paint'. It sounds like you need to have the stuff sprayed on by a LineX shop though. 'Applied with Heat and Pressure' or so they claim. Did you shoot it yourself or have the roof done at a LineX dealer? Would you say it deadened freeway noise by 5 to 10% or more line 20 to 25% or how much?
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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have the system at work and shoot spray in bedliners for the Chevrolet Dealership I work for. I would say its 20%? A NOTICEABLE improvement mentioned by others who own/ridden in Vanagons too. Nice and quiet, no buffeting even with the roof rack.

I swear it made a difference in 1am to 5am cold temps when sleeping in the van. Now I just feel the cascading chill sliding off the inside of the glass while laying back there. Before when I would sit up, I could feel the cold at the headliner area, now it seems to be gone. Side note: I am no sub freezing camp expert or play one on tv, just an old fat guy that sleeps naked and has to pee a few times throughout the night so I tend to notice a difference in temps after the roof was done.

It would be one of the first mods I would do to another Van when find the right Syncro tin top in the future Smile
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

newfisher wrote:
We have the system at work and shoot spray in bedliners for the Chevrolet Dealership I work for. I would say its 20%? A NOTICEABLE improvement mentioned by others who own/ridden in Vanagons too. Nice and quiet, no buffeting even with the roof rack


Sweet - thanks. Sounds like a no brained. I'm only two hours away, PM me if you do side work ;-}. I bet if someone was redoing the interior and shot the inside with the liner before mounting the panels, carpet and headliner that stuff would work better than dynamat. I'm going to put it on my list for when I redo the top.
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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2015 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice van! Go Subaru such a nice fit. Very Happy I would replace plastic coolant tubes first chance.
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