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Stuck rear drum
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wingman
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 11:54 pm    Post subject: Stuck rear drum Reply with quote

I know this has been discussed in many threads. But I wonder what is the SOP since my passenger side rear drum is so stuck that it doesn't even turn. I have collected some methods below but want to double check them before I try.

1. Back off the star nuts: does not apply since my drum does not turn!
2. Unplug the brake hose: how does this help?
3. PB blast: where should I blast the LW?
4. Hit with hammer: where and how should I hit it?
5. Drum puller: this seems to be the last resort. Am I still able to reuse the shoes/drum after that?

Is there any other way to unfreeze the drum?

Thanks,
Michael
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Bret2094
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 12:19 am    Post subject: Re: Stuck rear drum Reply with quote

wingman wrote:
I know this has been discussed in many threads. But I wonder what is the SOP since my passenger side rear drum is so stuck that it doesn't even turn. I have collected some methods below but want to double check them before I try.

1. Back off the star nuts: does not apply since my drum does not turn!
2. Unplug the brake hose: how does this help?
3. PB blast: where should I blast the LW?
4. Hit with hammer: where and how should I hit it?
5. Drum puller: this seems to be the last resort. Am I still able to reuse the shoes/drum after that?

Is there any other way to unfreeze the drum?

Thanks,
Michael


1.Backing off the star nuts in my opinion usually is an exercise in futility if the drum on question has not been movable for some time. They usually get frozen up themselves and require heat and lube to get em free

2. unscrewing the brake hose works if the brake cylinders are stuck with the cylinders depressed. sometimes the soft lines collapse internally and prevent fluid from moving back and forth, and builds up pressure that activates the cylinders. unscrewing these lines relieves the pressure.

3. PB blast inside the drum however you can, but using lubricant will ruin the brake liners, but odds are if they are on a field/barn find then you don't want em anyhow

4. Hit along the face of the drum where the brake linings touch the drum, because they rust and form a glue to the surface of the drum. you want to break this bond free. You should see a pile of crap coming out of the drum form after beating with a bfh

5. I like the drum puller, it works fast if they are stuck good. Personally I would not reuse the brake linings if they are fairly old,but that is your call, providing the linings dont separate from the shoe. Plus the old stuff is made from asbestos


I like to use a combination of hammer and a piece of angle iron that I have drilled holes to put the lugs in. I beat a little with the hammer, and then try to rock the drum back and forth with the angle iron attached. make sure you are in neutral, the parking brake is off, and you have the wheel removed, properly supported and the others chocked to prevent rolling.



Bret
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trying to back off the stars when the shoes are rusted to the drums, meh. I don't even try. why break the ears off the stars?

If the wheel does not spin, generally the shoes are rusted to the drum, and the shoes will be junk. Go ahead and spray PB blaster in to creep in between the shoes and the drum on the braking surface.
I found that when using a puller with stuck shoes, the outer part of the shoes followed the drum while the ends of the shoes stayed in the slots, and this ended up wedging things tighter, straining the threads on the puller.

I take a sturdy punch, slide it through the lug nut holes or brake adjusting hole to rest on the part of the shoe that is vertical, and tap it with a hammer. This is to shock the shoe apart from the drum. When using the puller, I would turn the nut a few, tap the shoes, turn the puller nut, tap the shoes to push them back straight.

The brake hardware for the rear brakes is getting harder to find and more pricey, so on that count it also help to tap the shoes. So the ebrake hardware doesn't get twisted, so it can be re-used.

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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My buddy just had a drum puller made for his dc by one of his machine shop customers. (he owns a powdercoating shop and was spraying yellow that day) I'd imagine quite a bit cheaper than the puller in classifieds..

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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 9:43 am    Post subject: Re: Stuck rear drum Reply with quote

wingman wrote:
4. Hit with hammer: where and how should I hit it?


Use a steel drift and hit through the lug bolt holes against the brake shoe steel arch.

Put two bolts partially back in and use a T fence post to try and spin the drum.
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Bruce Amacker
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Or, use a cutting torch to cut the backing plate away so you can wiggle the shoes free. Even then, the spline will be stuck requiring a puller.
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consvws
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done the drum puller method many times, and i almost just find it easier & less destructive to blast water through all the lug holes while beating the drum with a hammer. The more rusty debris you can get out the easier the drum will come off. As soon as you can wiggle the drum the slightest bit, put the wheel back on & twist the wheel/drum off by grabbing the outer edge of the tire for more leverage
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wingman
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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all. I finally got it off today. It just slid out little by little as I was hitting the drum. Not even a drop of pb blaster! Twisted Evil
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