Nova Beetle ('72 Super)

[swhitcomb]

Removing the whole hat is fine. I probably would have too if I'd bought one. I lucked into a whole front clip with a complete suspension for $100. Having the extra metal around has been really helpful.

Just make sure you line the bolt holes up properly and you'll be fine. I hear you on the rain. I'm pretty close to you and my day of working on the Bug also got washed out.
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My 71 Ghia Been in my family since 1980
My Patina 66
My 74 Ghia
07 Boxster

[Busdriver79]

I had cut off my Napoleon Hat with lots of rust...just like yours...if I could have found a donor car to use grafted on pieces, I would have gone this route...however, no parts cars were to be found so I just bought a new part, cut off the crappy rusted one completely, then welded on the new part....looking at the old one, it was most definitely not fixable...just measure carefully while cutting and welding...there's nothing better than new solid metal.

[Merovex]

Here are 11 photos in a Google album of the chassis, etc.. It was amazingly easy to flip once the transmission was off. Not visible in the photos is the 10'x10' Canopy that I have "garaging" the chassis. I only have it a 1/2 height, which is enough for me to sit under while working, while helping my neighbors live under the illusion there's not a full-scale model being built.

• First three show the removed transmission, which is caked with seepage, also IRS axles, one with bad boots, the other seems okay, both rusted.
  
• One photo showing the transmission mount, which was covered in oil-soaked dirt and was rather rust free as a result. You'll see in the background that I set the driver's pan on for a test-fit.
  
• Four photos of the bottom of the tunnel. It looks like the underbody held in most places, with one area with what appears to be surface rust. The dark dirt at the lower frame rear came out of the hat area when turned on its side...likely a mix of rust and country dirt road courtesy of the previous owner.
  
• Two photos of the lower frame head. It appears the left rear sway bolt broke off, and rather than straight fix it, the bracket was welded back in place. I'm a little concerned about that
  
• A shot of the tunnel. Signs of surface rust near the seat-belt bolt holes and along bottom. I have some Fluid Film to spray down there at the appropriate time...though the genius in me bought the three-pack.

I did a trial fit of the Hat, and at first it didn't seem to fit, the Beetle's head being a bit larger than Napoleon's. Anyway, after clamping one side then putting a little mass (my 220+ lbs) on the top center of the hat, I was able to clamp both such that it looks like it will be fine.

The pan looks like it will have a wee bit of a gap between the inner edge and the tunnel side. The front inner corner might need to be trimmed a bit, and the outer rear corner is tight up against the rear mount. Based on this, I'm thinking that drilling holes for plug welds might not be the best bet; but stitching down the side might be better. Are there concerns with stitch v. plug?

I had hoped to weld a bit by now, but yesterday was a rare full day of rain in Northern Virginia. Also, I've been a wee bit concerned about using the Chicago Electric 90 Amp MIG; which has made me a bit welder-shy. I've read a lot of grief in various forums. However, I also ran a cross a video of a guy who put on a rectifier that fixed the fact that the welder is AC all the way, and some other suggestions that address other minor issues (flux core tip, better flux core wire). I need to stay 110V, and all I've read suggests the 90A would be sufficient for the metal I'll be facing on this project. The parts should be in on Tuesday, and a three-day weekend coming up suggests I can rectify and practice (a by-Friday goal) and tack the Hat (a by-Saturday goal). Between these two goals is practice on scrap.

I think I said this before, but my insane approach is to use what remains of the lower frame head to help get the Hat on straight, then use the hat to help get the frame on straight. The net result will likely be a bastardly install.

[Merovex]

Not apparent from the photos as I shot the wrong bit, but the chassis serial number is "AH 422...." That number is a '71 IRS (4.125 ratio). Without having the magic birth certificate from the hallowed halls of Wolfsburg, I'm guessing the car was built around October 1972. It looks like AQ is the code for '72 (4.125 ratio), so I'm thinking they had to use the last of the '71 transmissions...assuming this is original.

[Cope2013]

I am also having to replace the front frame head on my 74' due to previous front end damage it was far past repair, Luckily I was able to find another one to weld on. I'd love to see some pictures of your process to see how it all comes together. Also the front bonnet doesn't look to be needing replacement, maybe a little body work/sandblasting? Some of the areas you've listed might not have to be completely replaced maybe just patched saving you quite a bit of pocket change.

[Merovex]

[Cope2013]

When I first starting digging in I thought oh okay I'll buy this whole peice, this, this, and this, until I realized by fixing the one little defect I'd save $150 just on that one part, whole replacement peices add up in cost and shipping so I try to save every little thing I can! Another thing is depression when you realize how much work you have but it feels so good when its done. Each person has a different way of doing things some of mine probably aren't right but if it works who cares, I'd love to see the process, I'm following your page good luck and happy bugging!

[Merovex]

Recap: Bought the car 23 April. Separated the body/chassis 26 May. Spent June with the chassis under a sun shade cutting out the pans and Napoleon Hat. About half the days where I was in a mood to take on the project there was rain (making up for the drought about 10 years ago). So, I switched by moving the chassis into the garage and the body (under tarp) to the driveway. No rain isn't an excuse.

The switch was fairly easy deadlifting and slipping moving dollies underneath. The heater channels have the consistency of corn chips. The right lower quarter panel that I need to repair chipped off the bondo from a previous owner's repair.

I completed my first weld by fixing the Napoleon Hat to the chassis. It's the most professional weld ever done in that garage. By professional, I mean it was done by a professional. And by "professional," I mean IT professional. That's close enough, right?

The welder is a HF POS 90 Amp, though a YT video walked me through the process of ensuring it was always DC NEG at the tip. This was done via a rectifier/capacitor (The wand is in the last photo. After the conversion, the welder seems to be burning a bit hotter. (If I were ever a product manager, I would name a brand POS just for the lolz.)

The transmission is now with Nick (nsracing). It was a pleasant trip and chat, though I have a feeling I cut into his after-shift siesta. He had some good suggestions.

I also wire-wheeled a lot of the rust off of the rear axle area.

Next step: flip the chassis and repair the rear portion of the lower frame head.

[Merovex]

The left rear suspension travel stop mount has rusted off. Any recommendations on how to repair?

Disregard:

I found a thread on lost travel stop mount I'll probably go with an alternative on both sides.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9101g

[Merovex]

This is a two-minute video of me removing the underbody from the tunnel. In the process, I found a few areas where the underbody was compromised that I didn't see until I peeled it all off. Down to bare metal.

https://youtu.be/RAmZmBnrgMU

I still need to repair the lower frame head area, but now that I've wire-wheeled it out, the amount of area to repair was much less than I thought.

[Merovex]

This weekend:

• Completed weld of rear lower frame head to Nap Hat & Nap Hat to the rest of the lower frame head.
  
• Removed Sway Bar (note weld problem) One of the two castle nuts is frozen on, so I will cut it off. I'm planning to lower the front end a bit, so no biggie.
  
• Removed rear axle nuts using electric impact gun
  
• Removed rear brake drums
  
• Loosened trailing arm - diagonal arm nuts
  
• Removed shocks.
  

This week: renovate the rear suspension.

[Merovex]

I am starting to put the rear suspension back together. I finally removed the front strut springs. Otherwise, I am waiting for parts. My goal is the chassis done by Labor Day.

To remove the strut springs, I used the basic pair of strut compressors. Then used an impact wrench to loosen the nut, then a 22mm deep socket, and 8mm Allen and box end. Inserted the allen into the 3/8" socket side, with the 8mm box end wrench on the allen wrench. The 22mm held the net while I loosened with the 8mm.

Photos by Labor Day.

[Merovex]

I assume nobody's lurking the thread, but I'll give a bit of an update. This is my first restoration. That, a little native disorganization and awaiting parts has kept me slow. I will need to follow-up with photos once I'm back home.

This summer has largely been chassis work. I'd hoped to complete by Labor Day (7 Sept), but I will be a little late.

I completed replacing the front drums with disc brakes. I've completely rebuilt the rear drums.

One of the struts is rebuilt using TL's sport spring. The first order of strut mounts had a problem where the diameter of the hole for the strut insert was too narrow. I have an order in for the 2nd strut mount, control arm bushings, etc. to finish rebuilding the front suspension. The sway bar mount needed a bit of work due to a PO having welded the bracket on. But, that's fixed now, and the sway bar is mounted properly.

The new struts use 7mm instead of 8mm. I had to go to AutoZone to get a 7mm socket. I used a 22mm box wrench/spanner to hold the

The rear suspension rebuild is complete. The spring covers were a bit of a bear until I found the right place to order from.

The rear axle is my current target as I'm awaiting a few more parts for the front suspension. I might be able to get that finished this weekend.

Being inspired by the 2054cc build.
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NoVA Beetle '72

[Merovex]

I'd not realized that I've gone the better part of a month without posting updates. I think that because I know you'll want pictures that I've not taken has discouraged me.

But, where do I stand, or rather sit? The rear suspension and axle are done.

I used the 12-point 12.11 bolts from Topline for the brake backing plates to avoid the head issue. The original bolts looked sad and rusted when I went to put them back in, and I didn't have the heart to subject them to 43 more years of stress. I ended up completely rebuilding the brakes, with the only original parts being the metal bits that bolt the e-brake cable to the backing plate, connecting links and levers.

I'm a few parts shy of completing the front suspension and they should arrive tomorrow.

I've welded the passenger-side floor pan.

Remaining on chassis:

• Front struts (both)
  
• Master Cylinder (need to drill new holes to support the BZ MC so I can mount the brake reservoir to the MC.
  
• brake lines (I have stainless throughout on hand)
  
• shifter refresh (on order)
  
• clutch cable refresh (on order)
  
• accelerator cable refresh (on order)
  
• IRS CV joints (not started)
  
• Driver pan (on hand)
  
• Parts to put e-brake cables on hand brake (on order)
  

Transmission is still with NSRacing.

I took the tarp off the body and was reminded about how much work is there:

• Heater Channels
  
• Right quarter panel
  
• front apron
  
• rear apron
  
• crossmembers (rear)
  
• front firewall
  
• spare tire
  
• parts of rear luggage area
  
• and the hits go on-and-on-and-on.
  

I've settled on a 1800cc engine, when the time comes. Perhaps too far out, but not sure if I want to go yellow (original) or red on the paint. My '69 was red that I painted gunmetal, and always regretted because the red looked so good in Fall.

I bought the car on 23 April. It took me a month to take it apart, and four months to get this far on the chassis.
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NoVA Beetle '72

[green1303]

Thanks for the update! It seems like my car has as much new metal as old, but it's probably not that bad. It's at the shop to get painted now. Stick with it... it's a great feeling when you have tacked a major restoration and done a lot of the work yourself.
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1973 green Super Beetle

[Merovex]

To all those in The Samba who are veterans, thanks for being a brother-in-arms once upon a time.

Due to approaching cooler temperatures, I've moved the body inside.

On the chassis, I have moved the chassis checklist over the GitHub since it allows me to check things off and a few other bits. I will still be providing updates and photos here. The minutia will be there.

No work on the chassis since the September report.

On the Struts, I was going to install the old strut boots (plastic cylinder boot over the insert), but one was damaged and I seem to have lost the other (or it was never there?). I finally bought the right ones. One is mounted, the other is still in progress since I stripped the spring compressor bolt head and things are such that I can't remove the old boot until it's addressed. New compressors should arrive today so I can use one to take up the tension and cut off the old one and move on.

I finished welding both pans, and I used Rustoleum bright red to paint over on the top on both and on the center spine. I sealed the seams with a product with the same solvent, so the paint was erased in a few areas and I'll go at it again. I still have to do the bottom side, but due to ambient temperature and the air permeability between the garage and house means I have to wait until Spring.

I have a separate task list for addressing the body/chassis connection refresh. Please feel free to comment here on whether the steps appear sound. The underlying principle is from the How to Restore Volkswagon Beetle book. He advises against patching the rear crossmembers. The front could probably be salvaged, but right now I'm inclined to follow his lead.
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NoVA Beetle '72

[Merovex]

Both heater channels off, though there is some clean up. Removed the underbody from the front wheel wells, which reveals a little crumple from a fender bender. About to tackle the front bulkhead (firewall, crossmember, whatever).

Not much more rust to be discovered.
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NoVA Beetle '72

[Merovex]

Making progress in the mid-Atlantic heat wave. A few more welds and the front bulkhead will be out. Maybe by New Year's I'll be able to weld the new parts of the body that connect to chassis.
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NoVA Beetle '72

[vamram]

Any pictures of your latest work?
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Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Merovex]

I have an unnarrated video linked below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sxBVX4Y_jk

After cutting out all that metal, it looks like it would be easier to replace the spare tire area (end of video) before I put in the firewall. The wheel well metal is pretty chewed up, something that isn't apparent in the video. Because of the rust in the support structure, I ordered full sides from CIP1.

I've test fit the heater channels, rear cross members & front firewall to the chassis, which is still sitting in the driveway.

My goal was to get the five pieces back in by end of the weekend, but I'm not progressing at the rate I would like. At least removing the spare tire area doesn't look too challenging at present.
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NoVA Beetle '72