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GoMopar440
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2015
Posts: 491
Location: Montana
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 Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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Today I started out by removing the spare from the roof, along with the fabric roof. The spare tire mount could have been done better so I just chopped it off for now until I can come up with a better one. That also helps me by removing the biggest obstacle to mount the sheet metal roof. I smoothed the top bars where the rack was and sprayed a bit of blue paint to seal it up. While I had the paint I noticed a few places I missed earlier that still had some OD green on it so I got those too. Then I found some nicks in the paint here and there so I touched them up as well. While I was doing all these touch ups I spotted some overspray on the steering shaft where the wheel mounts.
This is where my ADHD kicked in and I started looking closer at the steering shaft where I wanted to mount my turn signal switch. I had some scrap 1.5" tubing left over from the new windshield top bar and it fit nicely over the QD mount on the end of the steering shaft. I measured from the bushing mount to the back of the steering wheel QD adapter and cut the tube to allow about 1/4" clearance. Then I notched the tube so it would clear the lower windshield bar and allow the tube to sit flat up against the bushing block. I want to run the wires from the switch through the tube to hide them and give it a cleaner look so I notched the bottom of the tube. Next I slid the tube onto the steering shaft and installed the wheel. That way I was able to hold the switch in place and get an idea where I wanted to mount it. I am thinking of making gullwing doors for this rail so I couldn't mount the switch on the left side since there wouldn't be enough room to hit the Hi-Lo button. So, I ll be mounting the switch on the right side of the column. Now that I knew where the switch was going I was able to drill a hole for where I wanted the wires to go in. I deburred the tube and rounded all the edges that the wires could come into contact with. It was about this time I had an idea about mounting the switch. Most people use those screw type clamps, and while they work fine, I wanted to make mine a little more streamlined. So I took the tube over to the lathe and cut a channel into it about the width of the screw clamp I had on hand. I made the groove about 1/16", which is about the thickness of the clamp, so the outside edge of the clamp will have the same OD as the tube when installed. The other reason I made the groove is it will help keep the switch from sliding forwards or backwards on the column. All I have left to do is cut some flat pieces of steel and weld them to the end of the tube. That will give me a place to put the screws that I'll use to mount the column to the bushing mount. I didn't feel like breaking out the welder just for that so that's where I stopped on this part for today.
Back onto the roof project. I cut a piece of sheet metal and lined it up with the roof. I didn't have a piece big enough to cover it all in one shot, so I stopped at the front bar above the new bar I installed yesterday. I'll add a small strip to fill that slot after the main part of the roof is done. Since I want to put all my switches up in that area, it seemed like a good place to have the smaller piece of sheet metal in case I ever need to get in there for any reason. I got the sheet metal riveted to the rear bar and both middle bars on the roof before getting called away to help my wife with her chicken coop project. As long as we get a another good day of weather I should be able to finish the rest of the roof tomorrow.
That was as far as I got for today.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493 |
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Guardian1
Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2015
Posts: 80
Location: Michigan, Dundee
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| Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:20 am Post subject: |
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| Looking good! I am especially interested in seeing how you mount your turn signal, I was thinking along those same lines but was thinking about using a bearing similar to the one used to hold the steering shaft. Right now mine is mounted on the tube frame on the left side. (so they are horizontal instead of vertical) |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 2:50 pm Post subject: |
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| GoMopar440 wrote: |
Both tie rods were bent by the PO before I got the rail. They added pieces of angle iron, welded to the bottom of the tie rods, with stitch welding. It looks like they got bent after the reinforcement angle was added though.
I'm sure you are right about the vertical frame tube being in the way, but I don't trust my welding abilities to try to fix that right now. I'm planning on getting a new fully welded frame (Beeline Rat Pack 2 seater) next year and just swapping everything over to it. It looks like the tire rods will probably hit the vertical bar if I try to straighten them so I'm running them as is for now. The PO adjusting the tie rods so it tracks straight going down the road with the rods bent as they are now. Not an ideal setup I know, but I'm not going to be off roading it anytime soon. The worst I'll hit are just some dirt roads here and there (for now).
The battery box is bolted to the aluminum floor with four bolts. The strap holds the lid on can be lengthened to go around that horizontal bar behind it for extra stability if needed. The right side tire rod clears the box through the full range of motion. The pictures make it look like the tie rod rubs on the battery box, but it actually doesn't.
I had tried moving the box to the back of that horizontal bar before permently mounting it, but the passenger foot rest is in the way and I don't want to move that. The right front brake hard line is also routed in a way to clear the box with plenty of clearance around it. The hood I built also allows for a couple of inches clearance from the top of the box. If I moved the battery box to the rear of the horizontal bar I would not be able to access it from the new hood. As it is, I can access and work on the steering, brake lines and reservoirs and the battery when I open the hood.
Richard, I want to thank you for posting your input here and hope you don't think I'm just shooting down your ideas without giving them fair consideration. It's hard to post everything pertinent to a project through a few photos and some text. Especially when I usually type this stuff after working on it during the day and then trying to remember everything I worked on right before going to sleep for the day. Some things are just plain difficult to get a good perspective on without having it right there in front of you. I'll try to do better with the pics and text in the future. |
Don't worry - Be Happy. (Haven't heard THAT in a year of Sundays!) I'm not offended. There ARE those who blow off my suggestions offhand. Oh well. I've tried to help. If ya don't like my advice, just apply for a return of the fee you paid for it.
On the battery box, I could see the tie rod wasn't hitting it as it is. But if the tie rod were straight and the upright moved, it might. When building your BeeLine, keep all this in mind when deciding where to mount the battery. I approve of the marine box. Make sure the battery is securely tied down with a metal strap. I've seen way too many batteries come loose under a fabric strap over the outside of the box. The hold-down needs to slip under the edge of the cover. On my Buggy the front hood is one piece and not hinged, but is EZ to remove. I have a front "firewall" ahead of the pedals to keep out air, water, dust and mud. The firewall and hood are sealed around the edges.
I prefer to make body and interior panels out of aluminum so it won't rust. The bar above the windshield opening could have been 1" round x 1/16 wall or even 1/2" square tube since it is only added to support the edge of the visor. You could mount the front lights on tabs welded to the sides of the horizontal bars so the left is ahead of the steering box.
On welding thin metal... The .035 wire is too much metal. It takes a lot of heat to melt it so the sheet metal melts 1st. See if you can get thinner wire. For a MIG welder with gas, use .023. Be aware that MIG and flux core use opposite polarity too. That affects the melting of the sheet metal too. For flux core, .030 works better than .035. Thicker wire works better for thicker materials. Vendors will tell you that .035 will work for sheet metal as thin as 22ga. But a baby spoon will work to dig an escape tunnel out of a prisoner of war camp too.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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PhillipM
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2010
Posts: 595
Location: UK
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| Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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To be honest, so long as your tension is set right and machine can feed smooth enough from a start, .035 is pretty easy to use right down to 25ga - I prefer it if I can get away with it because it feeds better than .023, which on my machines tends to be a very fine line between smooth feeding and a birds nest in the rollers - it's why most retailers suggest the thicker wire, saves them the phonecalls and headache...
I would definately not run the gasless for anything that thin though - but since you have some Argon (it is an Argon/CO2 mix, and not pure Argon, right?), that with .035 or .023 should make light work of sheet, especially if you've been welding that long - I'd bet it'll be like someone has turned the lightbulb on for you compared to fluxed. |
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Guardian1
Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2015
Posts: 80
Location: Michigan, Dundee
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| Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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| You also might want to consider using that open space between the new top windshield tube you welded in for a windshield wiper assembly, provided that your state requires one and you have ample room. (After I get my windshield cut, I plan to start looking at windshield wiper options) |
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GoMopar440
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2015
Posts: 491
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 10:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Guardian1 wrote: |
| You also might want to consider using that open space between the new top windshield tube you welded in for a windshield wiper assembly, provided that your state requires one and you have ample room. (After I get my windshield cut, I plan to start looking at windshield wiper options) |
We're on the same page already then. I'm planning on adding a generic wiper motor assembly in that area above the windshield. The kind typically used for older CJs when upgrading from the old vaccum systems. Like this one-> http://www.ebay.com/itm/131503952596?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
As far as using aluminum instead of steel sheet metal, I agree that aluminum would have been better. However, I got the steel sheet metal for free and I don't plan on keeping this rail past next year when I hope to be able to switch to the Beeline Pack Rat frame. I'd also like to get the body kit that Beeline offers for it so I won't have to reinvent the wheel again.
I'm still trying to learn to handle the MIG using the gas. And FWIW, yes it is a CO2 Argon mix. As long as the stuff I"m working on isn't critical structural components I don't mind giving it a shot. If I don't try, I won't learn.
Today was crappy weather off and on with wind and short periods of heavy rain. I was able to get the big piece of roof metal finished without too much trouble.
For the small front section I had to cut the last big piece of sheet metal diagonally to get a big enough piece to close off the front gap. I used some black silicon sealer between the two sheets where they were riveted together in the middle. Then I just had to clamp the sheet metal in place and drill and install one rivet at a time as I went around the edge. I started from the middle and worked my way outward to minimize buckling of the sheet metal. I still ended up with a few curvy edges at the corners, but nothing I'm going to loose sleep over. I also touched up the blue paint where the C clamps had chipped the paint off where I was working. It had gotten too dark to take a pic of the finished roof so I'll snap some tomorrow after I get the grey paint on it.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493 |
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ORANGECRUSHer
Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2006
Posts: 2672
Location: West Coast (Michigan's)
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GoMopar440
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2015
Posts: 491
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:22 am Post subject: |
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I'm not sure if I'm familiar with the term "zipstrip". The first two things that come to mind are either liquid paint stripper of those plastic cable ties used to hold lots of different kinds of stuff.
If you're talking about the plastic cable ties, I wouldn't want to use them on the sheet metal since they would get cut up pretty quick by the sharp holes in the metal. I would use them for a quick fix if needed, but this is getting more of a long term fix since I have the time and a bunch of rivets already. Or at least I HAD a bunch of rivets. I've gone through three big boxes (100 per box) of rivets on this sheet metal project so far.
@Richard: I like the idea of a secondary firewall right behind the battery box. I may go ahead and make one when I get some more sheet metal to work with. Between my wife's chicken coop and my rail we already used up all of the sheet metal we had been given. I'll have to get some more material before I can make the firewall. I want to make a metal battery strap to go inside the box as well, but I'll need to replace the battery first. The battery in the rail doesn't hold a charge after a few days, even when using the battery cut off switch. I may get a different sized battery so there's no point in making the strap until I have the new battery in hand. BTW: This battery box is the largest of three boxes I have. The box in the rail now is the largest one which can hold the huge group 29 deep cycle marine batteries. I also have a medium size box for typical car sized group 24 batteries. The smallest one I have is tiny by comparison and is sized for a large ATV battery. I used the largest one mostly for the LED battery level indicator and 12V power outlet located in the lid.
On a side note: Later today I'll make an offer on the VW down the street I posted pics of and see if he'll take it or not. I figure if I can get it for $500 I should be able to at least get my money back in parts if nothing else. I'm hoping it has an IRS rear so I can use the longer type 3 trailing arms like Richard mentioned. I also plan to make use of the front disk brakes if at all possible.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493 |
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notime2d8
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2014
Posts: 27
Location: Birmingham, AL
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| Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:07 pm Post subject: Gauge pod...? |
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I see that you moved your gauge pod where did you end up putting it? I have the exact same one and was about to mount it where you had it until I thought about putting in a windshield.
I may copy your turn signal setup too...I need to start my own build thread to get some feedback... |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:50 pm Post subject: |
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I get using free materials. And recycled/re-used materials too. When going to buy new materials from a metal yard, you can often get some screaming deals on "fall-offs" or "rems" (leftover material from when somebody else bought less than the whole sheet or length of tube). When I went looking for material for a front skid plate for my 65 Baja back in the early 70s, I could either buy a 4' x 8' sheet of 1/8" 6061 T6 new for about $125 (2 week's pay then) or the scrap falloff of 1/8" diamond plate that I got for $5 which was big enough to make the skidplate for that Bug, which plate is now on the front of my Toyota prerunner truck, one for my 58 Baja (which was then my dad's) and the one for my race buggy. Remnants from that piece became all sorts of gusset plates, brackets and other things over the decades since.
For a wiper assembly, you might look into rear wipers for SUVs and hatchbacks, etc.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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GoMopar440
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2015
Posts: 491
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:50 pm Post subject: |
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| notime2d8 wrote: |
I see that you moved your gauge pod where did you end up putting it? I have the exact same one and was about to mount it where you had it until I thought about putting in a windshield.
I may copy your turn signal setup too...I need to start my own build thread to get some feedback... |
The gauge pod is just laying on the floor at the moment. I'm going to be fabricating a center mount of some kind for it soon. I was thinking of turning the pod on its side to keep it narrow since my cockpit area in my rail is fairly narrow. I'll just rotate the tach and other stuff 90* to keep everything aligned right.
Feel free to copy the light setup if you like it. They were just whatever lights I could find at the local auto parts store. The brackets were made from some scrap sheet metal drawers.
| dustymojave wrote: |
| For a wiper assembly, you might look into rear wipers for SUVs and hatchbacks, etc. |
I like that idea! I'll check the local junk yard and see if they have anything I can use.
For today it was more of the same, dodging rain and trying to get out to work in between the squalls. I drilled the holes for the lower headlights, but I'll need to trim the lower sides of the mounts. They are hanging down far enough to keep me from getting a wrench or socket on the nuts to be able to tighten them. I also got the roof painted, but my last can of the grey I was using clogged internally so I had to switch to a different color. The color I was using was Duplicolor Graphite wheel paint and the other paint I switched to was Rustoleum Metallic Charcoal. It's close enough for now. I'll respray the roof when I pick up some more Graphite paint. The roof looks more splotchy than it really is because the paint was still wet when I took the pic.
Next thing I worked on was the shifter. I pulled the old VW shifter and then cleaned out the cup in the shift shaft. A new coat of paint and it is ready for the new shifter and bushing.
Around this time the sky opened up again so I went to the barn to work on the shifters. I cleaned and inspected the old shifter to see what it looked like inside. It had a quick throw shift kit installed but the upper bushing was a very sloppy fit on the shaft. The shift gate was in like new condition though. Even though I didn't plan on reusing the original shifter, I cleaned, polished and repainted it anyway. When I put the quick shift pivot ball back on the shaft I put some epoxy on the shaft first. That should fix the sloppy fit for good.
Next I was checking out the new to me shifter I got from the Samba classifieds. The reverse button was pretty sticky and didn't want to return to its start position when released. The other thing I noted was the shift gate plate was gouged almost half way through by the reverse detent. The plate was otherwise identical to the original one so I put the old one with the new shifter and vise versa. To address the sticky button I disassembled the handle and removed the button from the internal actuating cable. When I pulled on the cable directly the reverse detent moved up and sprung back down just fine. That meant the button dragging in the handle was most likely the culprit. I could see some wear marks about halfway down the button so I polished the entire outer surface to smooth it out. While I had the button out of the shifter I noticed that it looked almost identical to the button I made for the E-brake handle. So I took it over to the lathe and put the same ring finish that I made on the tip of the E-brake button.
The handle got the polishing treatment all over the outside. Then I used a finger mandrel to polish the bore that the button rode in as well. The upper end of the reverse button cable was a little bit kinked so I straightened it out with some needle nose pliers. I greased up all the moving parts on the shifter before putting it all back together. Once it was reassembled, the sticky reverse button was no longer sticking.
I'm not sure how much I'll be able to get done tomorrow as we're expecting a lot more rain for most of the day. I'll probably just take a break from working on the rail for a day.
BTW: The guy down the street with the crazy looking VW thingy still owns it. He wouldn't come down to $500 and I didn't want to spend any more than that for it.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493 |
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Aerindel
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2015
Posts: 459
Location: Western Montana
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| Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 1:11 am Post subject: |
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I like your turn signal switch. I'm not even sure where to start with mine, which is a bad thing as lights are pretty much my last obstacle to get OHV status.
_________________
Homemade woods/street, bug out rail. IRS, Balljoint front end. 1967 1600cc DP, Weber 32/36 progressive, tri-mil quiet pack. Rear only cutting brakes.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=630046 |
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GoMopar440
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2015
Posts: 491
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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For the switch I just looked around on Ebay until I found one I liked. I didn't want the generic chrome one you find everywhere these days so I just kept looking until I found something a little different and a little less "Blingy". I like the one I got, a Singal-Stat 905 Sigflare, because it has the additional feature of the headlight hi-lo switch in the end of the stalk.
If you can wire the rest of the rail there isn't anything special with regards to the signal/blinker system that you couldn't do. All you need is the wiring diagrams and electrical connectors/materials. Then just add into your current electrical system to suit your light setup. Don't forget the wealth of knowledge and info available to you through this website as well.
As forecast, the weather here is pretty bad today. We just got a severe thunderstorm warning interrupting the radio braodcast just now. So, no work on the rail today. We also just lost reception of two of the biggest local radio stations for some reason. 
daanbc suggested I post some before and after pics of the progress on my rail so far. Since I can't really do much else with the weather like it is today I figured why not. I'll try to find new pics of the same approximate view I took in the original pics when I got the rail. I'll post the original pic first immediately followed by the updated pic(s). I've got about 180 rail pics in my Photobucket album, so I have a lot of material to wade through. Let's see what I can come up with here...
I think I've hogged enough of your bandwidth with this post already so I'll stop right here.  Let me know if anyone wants a pic of any particular area and I'll do what I can to get it for you.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493 |
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Guardian1
Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2015
Posts: 80
Location: Michigan, Dundee
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| Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Looking good! |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Since your distributor was installed about 90° off rotation before, have you re-installed it correctly? The little notch in the top edge of the distributor body should be at about 4:00 - 5:00 when the crank pulley is straight in front of you.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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Aerindel
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2015
Posts: 459
Location: Western Montana
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| Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 10:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: |
If you can wire the rest of the rail there isn't anything special with regards to the signal/blinker system that you couldn't do. All you need is the wiring diagrams and electrical connectors/materials. Then just add into your current electrical system to suit your light setup. Don't forget the wealth of knowledge and info available to you through this website as well.
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The hard part is picking something out, figuring out how to mount it and then figuring out the right blinker relay etc. All do able but it sounds like a pain to figure it out so I've been putting it off in favor of technically harder projects that I actually know what I'm doing on.
_________________
Homemade woods/street, bug out rail. IRS, Balljoint front end. 1967 1600cc DP, Weber 32/36 progressive, tri-mil quiet pack. Rear only cutting brakes.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=630046 |
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GoMopar440
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2015
Posts: 491
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 2:33 am Post subject: |
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| dustymojave wrote: |
| Since your distributor was installed about 90° off rotation before, have you re-installed it correctly? The little notch in the top edge of the distributor body should be at about 4:00 - 5:00 when the crank pulley is straight in front of you. |
As of yet I haven't messed with the 009 on the engine at all. It is still in exactly the same position as when I received it from the PO. I have heard about the timing notch on the lip of the 034 dist being 90* off from the mark on the 009 though if that is what you are talking about. I will be looking for that when I finally do the distributor swap.
I still haven't completely finished the 034 rebuild yet though. There's a few items I need to take care of before I can do that. I'm going to duplicate the little plastic spring clips on my lathe with some teflon I have. The trick will be to try to install them without splitting them. I also have to find the little black steel ball cup to replace the one in the dist that has a broken mounting ear on it. A new o-ring will be put on it before I install it as well.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493 |
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daanbc
Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2015
Posts: 403
Location: S.Fl
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| Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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| Looking good! Had I just purchased that dizzy when I first got it, you would not have need to fix anything. But I left it, and the junk yard guy tossed it in the bin breaking it apart. Sorry. Still got my ears n eyes out lookin at the local yards waiting for a old vw to surface. LOL |
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GoMopar440
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2015
Posts: 491
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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Don't sweat it since the damage the JY guy did was only cosmetic. It was gummed up pretty badly internally though so I couldn't just replace the cap and clip and use it as is. I actually ended up doing more damage to it myself when I stripped it down to clean it up. I had never taken one apart before and didn't know what to look out for. I didn't even have a VW service manual of any kind at the time. Live and learn. 
The tear down of the 009 I got from Brax went much smoother and I saved some of the tiny internal parts to fix the 034. I was able to keep the plastic spring clips intact and will be able to make copies of them to replace the ones that were brittle and fell apart. I usually work alone so I can't really get any pics of me actually making the parts, just the finished parts when I'm done.
The only piece the 009 didn't have that I still need is the little black steel ball bearing cup. I broke one of the thin mounting ears off of it and I still need to find another. The distributor rebuild kits I've found don't include that part so I'm still trying to locate one to replace it. Brax didn't have any 034 distributors when I was there last time.
I'd also like to get a NOS Bosch 579 vacuum pot for piece of mind. The nipple on the one I have has a very slight wiggle (loose feeling) to it. I'll just put some black silicone around the base of the nipple and use it as is until I can find a replacement for it.
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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493 |
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GoMopar440
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2015
Posts: 491
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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No rain today but it was still pretty windy outside. Rainy days tend to give me more problems with my back, so I only got a little bit of clean up work done. Nothing major or even pic worthy. I cleaned up the oil pressure sender and repainted it before reinstalling it. I also cleaned and painted the shifter nuts, bolts and washers that I removed the other day.
I came across a 1/4 turn quick disconnect CB antenna mount in my tool box so I cleaned and polished it up. I'm planning on putting a small CB in the rail up in between the two center roof tubes so I have a use for it. I also had a 9' long stainless whip antenna, so I cleaned and polished that as well. While I was working on CB stuff I dug out a small SWR meter that I plan on permanently mounting somewhere up near the CB. The paint on it was chipping off in a few places so I stripped the paint with a wire wheel and taped it up for painting. Since I removed the painted on labels for the "TX" and "ANT" plugs, I used some 1/16" letter stamps to put the labels back on the case. I taped off the meter face as well as the control knobs and cable plugs and then shot it with some silver paint.
After I was done messing with the CB stuff I pulled out a fin straightener I got with that batch of free stuff I got with the sheet metal from Craigs List. It's a tool that lets you straighten out damaged or flattened fins on radiators and oil coolers to keep from restricting air flow. I used it on my external oil cooler and after a while I had most of the fins all straightened out.
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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493 |
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