Budget rail rebuild and dual carbs project

GoMopar440 · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 9:53 pm Post subject:

I started working on the shift shaft this morning trying to get it out. Apparently it was built and assembled in place and then welded (poorly) together by the PO. There was a worn out urethane shift shaft bushing on there that I had to cut off since there was no way to get it off with everything welded together the way it was. The old style shift coupler came off fine, but I had to hammer the shift shaft out forward through the shifter box. There was a large nut welded on the end of the shaft that was bigger than the hole it had to pass through. Square peg, meet round hole. Mad

The shift shaft itself had been cut and shortened with the weld in the middle of the length of the shaft. Then the adjuster nut was brazed onto the shaft end and the threaded piece that goes into the coupler was cut or broken in half and then welded back together (misaligned) with what looked like fossilized cat s#!t. I'll be looking for a new shift shaft to replace it ASAP. Until then I decided to make the best of it for now. I had to grind, file and sand the welds dents and gouges on the shaft until they were smooth enough to allow the new urethane bushing to slide over it. I also had to work over the tip that goes into the old style shift coupler since the hammer had mushroomed the tip a bit in the process of removing it from the rail. I wire wheeled all the remaining crud off of it and polished the shifter ball pocket with a finger mandrel Then I polished the entire length of the shaft so it wouldn't gouge the bushing surface and then shot it with some blue paint.

The shift coupler seemed to be fine so I cleaned it up and shot it with some grey paint. I think I will order a new one anyway and replace it when it gets here just for piece of mind.

When I removed the shift coupler from the trans shift input shaft I found there to be about 1/8" play, up and down and left and right. A new shift seal for the nose of the trans is on the priority replacement list as a result.

To fix the damage to the shifter box caused by forcibly removing the shift shaft, I had to flatten the back side of the box with a couple of hammers and a long socket extension. Since I will be using a urethane shift bushing instead of the soft OEM plastic tube, I didn't feel the need to have to get it perfectly flat again. The urethane bushing just bolts onto the back of the box and not through the rear hole like the original did. It is level enough that the bushing will align with the shaft and shouldn't bind when installed and bolted down.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

GoMopar440 · Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:06 pm Post subject:

I decided to go ahead and replace the shift parts just to see what the new parts would do for the shifter feel. Everything except the worst of it, the trans shift shaft seal, is in good enough shape for me to work with for now. I pulled out the shift input shaft out forward from the nose of the trans as far as I could and cleaned it up. Then I smeared some black silicone around the seal to try to give it a little extra support and seal it up better. I greased up the outside of the shift shaft with some waterproof marine grease and also filled the shift cup with it as well. I bolted the new urethane shift shaft bushing to the shift mount loosely and then started to slide the shaft through it. once I had it almost all the way back, I installed the shift coupler onto the shift shaft as well as the shift input shaft. I used some stainless safety wire and twist pliers to lock the square head shift coupler bolts in place so they can't loosen up. Then I tightened the bolts holding the urethane shift bushing in place. I have both lock washers and blue Locktite on it, so it shouldn't be going anywhere unless I want it to.

Next up was the shifter itself. I noticed the shift gate plate that goes under the shifter wasn't sitting flat in the recess in the base of the shifter. This isn't too surprising since I got this shift plate from the other shifter. I looked it over closely and saw a couple places where the plate was wider than the recess. To fix it I marked it where it was hitting and then sanded it down with a disk sander. It took a couple tries sanding and fitting but I finally got it fitting nicely into the new shifter. I placed the shifter on the shift box and installed the two bolts loosely for now. I lightly tightened up the rear bolt so I could move the shifter around to find a spot that felt right. I tightened the front bolt and then ran it through the gears. In 4th it felt like the ball at the bottom of the shifter was coming out of the cup in the shift shaft. So I loosened up the bolts and tried it in a different position. That was even worse so I moved it the other direction and that seemed to work well in all gears.

One thing I noticed while working the gear shift was that the reverse button had begun sticking again, allowing the shifter to get into reverse when I wasn't holding the button. To fix it I pulled the shifter off again and brought it to the shop. To fix it I used a left over throttle return spring from one of my carb rebuild kits. I cut the hook off one end and then stretched the spring apart, so it stayed stretched out, and then cut off a 1/2" long piece. I put the spring inside the handle and then reassembled the button into the shifter. The button didn't come back out as far as I wanted it to so I pulled it apart again and stretched the spring out until it was 3/4" long. Once everything was reassembled again, the button now popped back out to it's normal resting position much better. I reinstalled the shifter, aligned it to where I had it working the best, and bolted it down again. The shifter now works as it should and it can only get into reverse when I press the button. I pulled the shifter bolts one at a time and put some blue Locktite on each one before reinstalling and tightening it.

Even with the worn out shift seal still in place, the shifter feel going through the gears is MUCH improved. The gears are easy to find and feels like they lock into place very positively. I'll have to drive it to confirm if it works as well as it feels, but so far I'm pleased with how it turned out.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

GoMopar440 · Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:05 pm Post subject:

Not a lot done today, mostly due to the rain again. I did get the mounting tabs made and welded onto the turn signal mount. I used a piece of an old bed frame to make the mounting tabs. I didn't want to try running my welder out in the rain so I brought the pieces over to my neighbor's house and let him weld the tabs to it. I lined it up so the opening near the end of the steering shaft was centered in the opening and clamped in in place. By removing one clamp at a time I was able to mark the holes on the steering shaft bushing mount. After both mounting hole centers were marked, I pulled the bushing mount off the rail and brought it in the shop so I could work on it. I drilled the holes in the signal bracket and the bushing mount for 1/4"-20 bolts. Once all the holes were drilled I cleaned up the burrs and then spray painted everything black. I'm letting it dry a day or two before I reinstall it since the rain here will slow paint curing times considerably.

Next I cleaned up the signal switch and painted the screw heads and clamp bracket. I also pulled the front cover off to clean the stalk and remove all the chipped paint from the cover. That old paint took a LONG time to remove, even with the coarse wire wheel I was using. I sanded smooth a couple of dings on the cover and then hit it with some gloss black paint.

I didn't feel like bringing my camera out in the rain so I'll have to get pics of today's work later.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

daanbc · Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 1:29 am Post subject:

We have had nasty weather here too! While working in the garage today, a bolt came down close to the house and the CRACK it made was so loud it shook the house! I immediately high tailed it into the house turning off all electricals I could. Until it passed. Since I lost the tip of my finger, it hurts like a motha when it rains! I should get a job as the local weather man. I know it's going to rain before it comes. LOL

GoMopar440 · Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 10:13 pm Post subject:

One thing I'm glad about living up here is we don't get many hurricanes compared to the Gulf Coast. We sold our condo in Gulfport, MS just six months before Katrina hit. Shocked

I've had to sit through more hurricanes than I ever cared to since the last 10 years I was in the Navy was all at stations on the Gulf Coast or Puerto Rico.

I called the local glass shop and got an estimate for a 3' x 3.5' (approx) piece of tempered safety glass with regular squared edges. They quoted me $165 for 3/8" thick or $81 for 1/4" thick. They said they couldn't get any with the tint strip at the top though. Lead times for delivery are currently about two weeks. I'm going to wait till I get the windshield gasket before I decide which glass thickness to go with. I'm still going to make a template to bring them since I doubt the opening has perfectly square corners.

I got the blinker switch installed today. I had to give the switch face another coat of black paint since I missed a spot on it when I painted it yesterday. I hung it over the shop heater to dry it a little faster. While it was apart I cleaned out all the old grease from the switch and replaced it with some waterproof grease. The old grease was more like some kind of tacky/gummy crud and was making the switch feel very draggy and slow to move. Once the switch face was dry it went back together pretty easily and I mounted it up to the upper steering column bushing mount. Then I slid the upper part of the steering shaft through the bushing and reinstalled it into the aluminum coupler. Two screws and lock nuts later and the shaft was back together. Then I placed the bushing mount back onto the lower windshield bar and lined it back up to it's original position before bolting it back down.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here's a couple pics of the new shifter in place. Better late than never.

Next up I'm going to make a mount for the gauge box somewhere under the middle of the lower windshield bar. I'm thinking of rotating the box 90* clockwise to the right to make it vertical instead of horizontal. Once that's in place I'll need to do a few shake down runs to help me track down those engine oil leaks.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

Guardian1 · Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 11:33 pm Post subject:

That turn signal mount turned out very nice! Applause

I plan to do something like that down the road.

GoMopar440 · Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 10:19 pm Post subject:

GoMopar440 · Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 10:42 pm Post subject:

Another day full of honey-do list stuff. Rolling Eyes

At least I did bring my tools when we went to town so I was able to get back out to the JY to look at those wipers. The wipers I saw the day before that looked the most promising turned out to be vacuum driven ones so no luck there. While I was there I picked up the ball stud mounts for those hydraulic lift cylinders I got yesterday. They came in a bunch of different sizes and styles so I'll have a good assortment to choose from when I attach them to the rail.

Tomorrow will be another Dr appointment in the morning and then doing some shopping in the afternoon. I don't know how much time I'll have, if any, for wrenching on the rail tomorrow. I will be picking up a new battery for the rail while I'm out though so the day won't be a total loss. I'm also going to bring my old 4 into 1 header over to the local muffler shop and see if I can get them to make a quiet tip like the ones on the Tri-Mil Bobtail system.

Something like one of these two types:

I'm trying to get my barn wired for 220V so I can run my big air compressor I got a while ago. I need it running so I can use the big floor model sand blast cabinet I got from HF. I REALLY don't want to sand that rusty old 4-1 header by hand if I don't have to.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

GoMopar440 · Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 2:32 am Post subject:

No luck with any of the local shops wanting to even try to make me a quiet pack type of muffler for my 4-1 header. I even brought pictures in of the Tri-Mil headers with the glass pack and the turbo style mufflers to show them. Actually one shop said they could do it but they wanted a minimum of $140. I can find a brand new Empi bobcat style header online for that price. It I went that route I wouldn't have to clean the rust off my old header. My cheapest option will probably be to try and see if I can find just the quiet pack muffler section by itself online somewhere.

Since I had to head out to Butte today I stopped by Brax's place on the way by and picked up a used German Pierburg fuel pump and a rebuild kit for it. I already stripped it all the way down and have everything cleaned up. I put a mirror polish on the pivot pin and the rocker arm to help smooth out the internal sliding and rotating points. The main castings are painted graphite grey but I ran out of gloss black paint for the bolts. I'll need to pick up some more grey and black paint tomorrow so I can finish painting them.

I also pulled out the inlet and outlet pipes from the big top cover so I can drill and tap the holes for the 1/16 NPT 1/4" hose fittings. I ordered four of those 1/16" NPT fittings total, so I still have two left for this fuel pump. I've already installed a fitting in the inlets of the two rebuilt carbs. Both of the original brass hose nipples pulled out way to easily IMHO. Shocked

I'll sleep better knowing that I won't have to worry about if or when those original fittings would have pulled out while driving and caught the engine on fire.

The oilite bronze material came in so I picked that up today. I'll be making new throttle and choke shaft bushings on my lathe from that bronze rod very soon.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

Aerindel · Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 2:55 am Post subject:

You can get the muffler section by itself here: http://www.socalautoparts.com/index.php/mufflers-c-1259_1295
_________________
Homemade woods/street, bug out rail. IRS, Balljoint front end. 1967 1600cc DP, Weber 32/36 progressive, tri-mil quiet pack. Rear only cutting brakes.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=630046

GoMopar440 · Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 2:04 am Post subject:

Thanks for the link. Now I just have to decide if I want the glass pack or regular muffler style. I really wanted to bring my business to a local shop to help the local economy, but these guys have priced themselves out of contention. That's if they even wanted the job. Most didn't unfortunately.

Last night I got on Ebay and bought a few things for the rail. I picked up an assortment of LED idiot lights, some fancy LED switches, a few relays and a horn. With those all I'll lack to get it street legal is a windshield, wipers, mechanical emergency brake, and the associated wiring for that stuff as well of course. Here's some links to the stuff I got.
Engine Start switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271671756427?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Headlight on/off switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281499389718?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Dome Light on/off switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281640388188?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Power on/off switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281733359857?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Windshield Wiper on/off switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271671016566?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Horn momentary switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261897550997?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Green LED:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271686740732?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Blue LED:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281512465779?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Red LED:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281512467577?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Yellow LED:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281512469882?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Universal 30A Relay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121462466690?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Horn, 12V 110db:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121693642452?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Today was more running around town with the wife, so I only got a little time to work on rail stuff. I did pick up a 2 1/16" mechanical oil pressure gauge from the local auto parts shop while I was out. I'll put that in place of the ignition switch in the gauge console. I want to relocate and probably replace the current ignition switch.

When I got back home this evening I painted all the screws on the fuel pump black. After that I drilled and tapped the pump cover for the NPT hose fittings and then installed them. I made sure all the aluminum chips from the drilling and tapping process were completely removed so they wouldn't clog the jets in the carb. I worked on fixing my riding mower until the black paint had gotten a chance to thoroughly dry. A couple of hours later I put the fuel pump back together with all the new parts from the rebuild kit.

_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

daanbc · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 8:14 pm Post subject:

Looking good, I like those led's you picked. I finally finished mine today.! The hardest part was getting that back nut screwed on with the tip of my finger missing. LOL One of those things I have to learn to deal with. But I goterdone.

Guardian1 · Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 12:36 am Post subject:

It would appear we need some of the same stuff to get our buggy’s street legal. (I am very green to all this stuff, including the wiring) I plan to order all the same parts as you did for the horn, I really like the horn switch! And the prices are fair. So when you do the wiring and I am guessing you will hook up a relay, could you include a drawing of the wiring?

I am also in the process of wiring up an oil cooler fan, once I get everything sorted out I will update my post with parts, etc. Anyways, my buggy has headlights, blinkers and brake lights. But, I do not have any relays hooked up. I plan to correct this down the road once I get a better understanding of it.

One last thing, do you plan on putting all your relays in one central location?
Thanks,

notime2d8 · Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 1:32 pm Post subject:

daanbc · Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:16 pm Post subject:

You can use a 1/2 watt 470 ohm resistor on each one. Just solder it in line with the power wire. I did this on all of mine. Also I did not use any relay, I used a Signal Dynamics Self-Canceling Turn Signal Module 01501. With this module, it has hazards built in also.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CURUBI?psc=1&...ge_o03_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IYTS9RK?psc=1&...ge_o01_s00

GoMopar440 · Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:49 pm Post subject:

I'm putting relays on the circuits and placing them over the passenger side of the windshield. All the buttons will be going over the windshield as well but they'll be on the drivers side. I am going to make a sheet metal box or enclosure to keep all the switches and relays inside.

I'll also be putting a CB in the center of the roof between the buttons and relays. I have a smaller cheap Cobra CB from Wally World, but I'm thinking of getting a different one with side band capability. Most likely going to get this one -> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B5ZAES/ref=wl_it_dp_o...&psc=1. I have an old school loooong metal whip antenna that I've had for a while. I was able to clean it up and it looks like new now. I still need to find a mount for it though.

I probably won't be putting a radio in it as I prefer to listen to the mechanical music composed by the engine, transmission and tires. Speaking of tires, the Deestone 7.00-15 mud tires I was watching on Ebay recently sold out and are now discontinued. However I found some others that are very similar and ended up being about $15 cheaper on each tire. They also have free shipping so it seems like a very good deal on them. Here's the link to the tires -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321819047612?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. They should be here by the middle of next week. The old 165 metric street tires on the front of the rail are only about 26" tall and these new ones are supposed to be about 29" tall. That should give the front end some much needed lift. I picked up three tires all together when I ordered them tonight. Two for the fronts and one for the spare.

The windshield gasket came in the mail today and I also picked up a 4' x 4' sheet of solid tempered paneling material to use for a windshield template. I'll run the template over to the glass shop as soon as I get it fitted so they can get the 1/4" tempered laminated safety glass on order. They said it should take about two weeks for them to get it in and cut it to match my template.

While I was out running errands I picked up a 10 lb spool of flux core welding wire for the MIG welder. I'm having a hard time adapting to using the MIG with gas so I figured I'll stick with what I know how to do until I can get someone to show me how to properly weld with gas. With the flux core wire in hand, now I can weld the steering column bolts to the lower windshield bar and then grind the heads flush so the windshield gasket can sit in place without obstructions. I've got a couple other things I need to weld up as well like the CB antenna mount and the center console and a housing for the buttons over the windshield.

I found a couple of large chrome handles that I plan on using on the hood and doors. They were in an antique shop in a bin with a bunch of other loose handles so I have no idea what they came off of. They didn't have a price tag on them so the clerk let me have four of them for a buck. I already mounted one to the front of the hood and it fit perfectly. It almost looks like it was specifically made for it. It was too dark out to take any pics, so I'll snap some tomorrow.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

dustymojave · Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:50 pm Post subject:

Suggestion regarding the steering support bearing bolts.

Welding them then grinding them flush will remove all of the strength they need to hold the steering up in place. Been there, seen that.

So I propose welding a section of 1" angle iron to the back side of the bar at the bottom of the windshield, with bolt holes for the steering bearing. Then put the bolts through from the bottom side, so you don't poke a bolt hole in your knee when you hit an unexpected bump.

You're probably going to have to change the way the hood mounts to that bar to install the glass too.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

GoMopar440 · Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 2:43 am Post subject:

What about drilling out the holes larger in just the top of the tube and inserting and welding in a piece of rod that has a threaded hole in? That way the rod would be supported inside by the bottom of the tube, and the top could be welded in place and then ground flush. Then I would just have to use bolts coming up from the bottom to attach the bushing block to the threaded tube. The bolts would be pulling the threaded rod down into the tube and the weld would be just holding the top in place.

As far as the hood metal goes, I am going to have to make a patch to cover the area those two bolts were and seal it with silicone. I picked up some windshield adhesive yesterday and was told that it would work with minor imperfections like my hood metal. I'll have make sure to account for the slight variation under the gasket when making the template for the glass though.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

Guardian1 · Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 2:52 am Post subject:

Just make sure to dry fit your glass. I have to agree with Rich, The larger overhang on the seal faces outward, I am not sure that the seal will fit with the sheet metal hood coming up to the bar.

But!!!! I can’t wait to see what you come up with. Popcorn

GoMopar440 · Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 4:05 am Post subject:

Overhang huh? If the adhesive alone isn't enough maybe I'll lay a strip of metal over it with the forward part of the gasket in the middle of both layers of metal. Kinda like an Oreo cookie. I can see even more rivet's in my future now... Rolling Eyes

_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493


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Budget rail rebuild and dual carbs project
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