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ExtremeBean Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2015 Posts: 192 Location: Mesa, AZ
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 10:15 pm Post subject: OG paint restoration question. see pic |
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What would you guys do to this? The PO used some pretty harsh grit to prep for his new paint job so there are some pretty deep scratches in there. I don't mind the patina, rat rod look, but I want to do it correctly. I figure worse case scenerio, I'm getting it ready for a "real" paintjob. I've got some color matched primer and paint and all the sanding/polishing stuff. I just don't really know where I should go from here. I've got about 10 hours into just the decklid removing the crappy repay so I'd like to figure this piece out before I move on.
Any help, suggestions, or ideas would be greatly appreciated. By the way, it's a '59, one year only color fjord blue, so I don't mind trying to preserve what's left of it.
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ExtremeBean Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2015 Posts: 192 Location: Mesa, AZ
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Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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Wow, 60 views and no replies. So much for the so called "experts" on here that have restoring original paint down to a science. At least we can probably say this "fad" is coming to an end. I guess if you have a barn find with original paint would be the only reason one would attempt such a time consuming task in trying to preserve it. Or maybe it's just for those bus guys. Well...at least I know now before moving on to the rest of the car lol |
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EverettB Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000 Posts: 69829 Location: Phoenix Metro
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Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 11:23 pm Post subject: |
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60 views is nothing but I'm not sure what you are asking.
On Buses and Bugs I have seen different things:
1. People just leave it the way you have it right now but buff it out, usually by hand to prevent any serious additional paint loss
2. #1 plus they clear coat it, which I personally do not like as now you are stuck with it being clear-coated.
3. They touch up the areas that are down to bare metal with the primer and paint you have (color-matched). I have seen this done on some Buses and a lot of them look very good. A casual observer might know what has been repaired.
So it depends what look you personally want. _________________ How to Post Photos
Everett Barnes - [email protected] | My wanted ads
"Water is the only drink for a wise man" | "Communication prevents complaints"
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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ExtremeBean Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2015 Posts: 192 Location: Mesa, AZ
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:08 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the response. I should have been more specific in what I was asking. Basically, I'm curious of the process used. Don't you have to rough up the surface to prime and paint? Do you polish everything first, then touch up the spots? I guess I'm just confused because it seems contradictive. You shouldn't use anything less than 1000 grit because you'll start removing paint, but yet the surface needs to be prepped with 400-600 to touch up. Are the small spots done differently than the large spots? Also, as far as the scratches in the original paint, should I just keep using the appropriate grit until the scratches are gone. I'm not talking about swirl marks, but more like the previous owner used like 80 grit or something and it went all the way down into the paint. |
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 5157
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:10 am Post subject: |
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A panel that small should not be "touched up". Anything will stick out like a sore thumb. You either paint it all or don't paint it.
if you insist on painting just those small parts then send out the heavier scratched areas with increasing grit (ie: 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000) and then paint those areas.
Areas you don't want to paint can be sanded with 1000 and then the whole things buffed out.
It won't look good...but maybe that's what you are after. |
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Alan Brase Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2004 Posts: 4532 Location: Cedar Falls, Iowa
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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 3:00 am Post subject: |
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ExtremeBean wrote: |
Wow, 60 views and no replies. So much for the so called "experts" on here that have restoring original paint down to a science. At least we can probably say this "fad" is coming to an end. I guess if you have a barn find with original paint would be the only reason one would attempt such a time consuming task in trying to preserve it. Or maybe it's just for those bus guys. Well...at least I know now before moving on to the rest of the car lol |
Well, I can think of a couple reasons this "fad" is not going to end any time soon.
1. The best paint is Glasso (BASF, they also own R-M/ Inmont/ Diamaont) or Sikkens. These are both very good products. One gallon today will cost much more than I paid for both my 56 single cab and my 23 window back in the 80's.
They already HAVE German paint on them, precious little, though. So, repainting is VERY expensive using high end/ original quality products.
2. Some people think original is better. MUCH BETTER. It can only be original once.
To that end, I will likely try to fix the rusty rockers and floor of my single cab, then try to DUST or blend new Dove Blue onto the old. Maybe even dust the whole truck. It's really a little toooo patinaed for me. I'l like to get a little more color.
I don't know if one could dust on over reduced coats to sorta blend it a little?
OH HELL NO, NEVER CLEAR IT. Some day you will be punished if you do that. Maybe by your own son.
I'm 50 years behind and diggin it.
Al
This is just a file shot of my front yard last summer. Sold the Dormie. _________________ Al Brase
Projects: 67 sunroof bug, 67 Porsche 912 Targa, 70 Westy
Dec 1955 Single Cab pickup WANT 15" BUS RIMS dated 8/55, thru 12/55
To New owners: 1969 doublecab, 1971 Dormobile
Vanagons:
80 P27 Westy JUL 1979, 3rd oldest known US
83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home |
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buguy Samba Member
Joined: November 17, 2003 Posts: 4915 Location: Port Orange, FL
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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 3:59 pm Post subject: Re: OG paint restoration question. see pic |
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I cant see the pic so im no help. But any sort of blending is tough. Then blending into/onto old sun faded paint is even harder. Then mixing different products adds extra challenges. Then trying to spray thinned material so its not solid......ugh....all I can do is wish you luck. Where there's a will, theres a way. |
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