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Do I need a condenser in my distributor?
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Scorcho
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 12:44 pm    Post subject: Do I need a condenser in my distributor? Reply with quote

So long story short I don't know anything about distributors and very little about engines for that matter! Anyway I was looking at getting new points, rotor, and condenser for my distributor because the engine just will not Keenan idle so I'll figure I'll replace hear parts. I was looking at my distributor to see which one I actually have (bus is a 63 but engine is from a 66). When I was looking at the Wolfsburg west distributor pictures I noticed the one I THINK I have is supposed to have a condenser but when I looked at mine I do not see one? Am I missing one or am I not looking in the right spot? Thanks!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's right there under where the cap is sitting. It's held in to place using the same screw as the vacuum canister.
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Scorcho
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Woooow literally right in front of my eyes Rolling Eyes thanks!!

So the distributor I have is the bottom one in this pic? Even though the inside with the points looks more like the top one?


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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does not matter what the inside looks like, unless you are an expert at working/fixing these. What matters is the numbers on the side of the distributor. Find numbers to be sure....
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Braukuche
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's simple, you have a later distributer where the confessor as Greg pointed out mounts externally vs the earlier one where it is internal.
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tasb
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little hard to be certain but it appears that you have a 113 905 205 M distributor. It was stock for 1968-9 as above. That is what yoiu need to order tune up parts for not a 1963 bus. For best operation you need to be matching that distributor to a 30 PICT series Solex carburetor.

A poor or erratic idle is rarely fixed by changing out tune up parts. The timing might have an effect on poor idle but more often the problem is fuel delivery or carburation (did I invent a new word?).
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tasb wrote:
poor idle but more often the problem is fuel delivery or carburation (did I invent a new word?).


Nope, carburation is a perfectly acceptable word :D

Scorcho, you might find these tune up articles useful. Once correctly tuned you can eliminate any tuning issues and get a better idea of the cause of poor idling.

Www.vw-resource.com/30pict2.html if your carb has only one adjusting screw on the left side, or
Www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html if your carb has two adjusting screws in the left side.
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tasb
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmmm the spell checker doesn't like it...
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

seems carburetion is more common? from carburetor?
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Scorcho
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the part number is 113905205T which is supposed to be for later buses with autostick. Since this is a 66 engine that is manual, should I get the right distributor? Would that be a reason I am having trouble with idling?
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doubt that it would cause an idling problem.

On the other hand we are running a 205M and it works great.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 113 905 205 T is not a later auto trans or even semi auto trans distributor. It was stock from 1969 to 1970 with the 30 PICT 2 carburetor and is a good match for a 30 PICT Solex carburetor. . The only difference between the 113 905 205 M and T is the T has the taller cap and rotor used on the later distributors while the 113 M uses the earlier short cap and rotor. The vacuum canisters are the same and thus have the same advance characteristics.

That Wolfsburg West posting has a number of errors in it. The most glaring being the 111 905 205 L as the middle image. The 111 905 205 L is a Garbe Lahmeyer distributor and looks nothing like the image. It is correct for 111 905 205 M and N. they need to omit the 111 905 205 L and add the 113 905 205 K in that middle pic. The bottom pic needs to omit the reference to the 111 905 205 L and add the 113 905 205 T. Basically that set of pics is too simplistic and has errors.
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Last edited by tasb on Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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tasb
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also greatly dislike their reference to one piece versus two piece points. The "one piece points" can be seperated into two pieces quite easily and frequently when removed from the packaging comes in two pieces. Rolling Eyes

After a closer look that bottom image is not of a 111 905 205 L m or N. It might be a 131 905 205 or a 113 9805 205 K the vacuum canister is too vague to tell for sure. I am basing this claim on the shape of the vacuum canister. The 111 canister is more saucer shaped.
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Scorcho
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the parts today, when I was removing the condenser screw, the thread went into this thing that seems to have a wire attached to it. Ilooked online but couldn't find out what it connects to. Does anybody know where this goes??
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uh oh.

Its welded under the points plate. I've been able to reattach them with 180watt soldering iron and silver solder but only by using new wire. The oil soaked wire just won't get clean enough to solder.
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Scorcho
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aaaah man well this sucks. I wonder if that's why it would just shut off?
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

End of that should be soldered to the plate the points are bolted to.

Kind of like this:

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
End of that should be soldered to the plate the points are bolted to.

Kind of like this:

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I see. Wonder if I can just buy a breaker plate with the wire already attached
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might as well remove the plate you have a do a little soldering....
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah looks like I will have to do that. Thanks!

Seeing as it is the ground strap its long as it is soldered I should be fine right? Doesn't connect to anything?
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