stock horsepower compared to 1776-1835cc

[59 vw guy]

When i had my engine built i was worried about the life and heat even though i was installing good shroud and deep sump and ext fan cooled cooler fixing to hook up cooler this week i had 2110 built and went with that instead of 2180 cause the thinner cylinders spooked me and kept comp at 8.5 and let me tell you it will hit 7000 as fast as a honda but i need to change tranny mine is 437 way to much i think 388 would be better anybody have that tranny in there bug?

[Uroplatus]

So for drivability and dependability are you guys saying the 1914 is better for everyday use than the 1835?
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'66 Vert, with a long ways to go!
'66 Vert

[John Boelte]

Either buy a new engine case or have your case inspected, line bored, and bored for the cylinders you choose (90.5 mm have the thickest cylinder walls). Get either a Scat or CB Performance 69 mm (stock) counter weighted crank (8 doweled) and stock flywheel; get high strength Scat or CB connecting rods (don't need to be H or I beam); get Mahle 90.5 piston and cylinder kit (you may want to get Total Seal rings at extra cost) and teflon buttons; get an Engle 110 cam (timing gear and lifters too!); CB Performance 041 cylinder heads (spend as much money as you can here); dual 40 carburetors; either 009 distributor or better electronic ignition system; if you want heat, use Kymco's big bore heater boxes and extractor/muffler.

There are more little things you'll need, but this will get you where you want to be at reasonable cost and be pretty reliable. The manufacturers listed have good reputations and are industry leaders. For carburetors and ignition systems, do yourself a favor and visit http://www.aircooled.net . John has a lot of good information in his tech tips section. The folks at http://www.shoptalkforums.com have a few guys with a great deal of experience and good solid advice for building engines (and other repairs).
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'71 Super Beetle, named "Otto"

[NorCalLowLife209]

If you want to build an engine why do some people say its not a good idea to build of a stock case.I forgot what is was called.But my freind says if i want to start biulding off my engine i need a AS41 case. Why is that?
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1967 VW type 1 (sold)
1963 VW type 1 (sold)
2011 VW GTI

[John Boelte]

The AS41 case has the dual oil pressure relief case, which is better, but I forget why. Most engine cases are 30+ years old and are worn. If you have a dual port case and want to buid it up (saving yourself about $300), have the case inspected for cracks and have the crank (and cam)journals line bored (if you don't, you could wear your bearings out quickly).

It is possible to build off of an old case, but considering all of the costs involved with building a performance engine, $300 isn't very much for what you get.
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'71 Super Beetle, named "Otto"

[Bugorsh]

A 90.5mm cylinder (for 1776) and a 92mm cylinder (for 1835) have the same size dia at the bottom of the cylinder where it connects/inserts into the case so the 90.5's have thicker walls making them stronger. The 94mm cylinder (for 1915) has a larger dia so it is again stronger than the 92's. My first motor build was a 1776 (about 90hp) with dual 34 ict webers and it was much more powerful than the stock 1600 was. My current motor I built over 20 yrs ago is a 1904cc (about 120hp) with dual 44idf webers and it smokes rice quite nicely. I am now building a 2332 with 48 idf's and it should make between 180 and 200 hp.
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In pursuit of superior handling!
SuperBeetlesOnly.com
VeeDub Parts Unlimited
Topline Parts

[russell]

[So Cal 55]

Hey guys...

I have a 1776 that i built a year back..

Its pretty wild built an it delivers 120hp...

I can desimate the norm with my traction and acceleration i can pitch a honda civic vtec to 100mph..
You can get the 1776 reliable and fast but yeah my next step is 1914 and wilder cam.... Much more fun than a stock 1600 any day...


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Power is everything.

[dub_crazee]

are we talking about bored out cylinder heads or different ones? because i heard with bored ot ones they are very liable to crack because the walles get ridiculously thin for 94mm? is this correct?
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69 Beetle
71 Bay
71 911

[So Cal 55]

when you got 94mm your best off with aftermarket heads like eliminators coz yeah the heads start to get thin and the valves are too small restricting flow etc etc....
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Power is everything.

[OLDveedubs]

[Uroplatus]

But i have found by reading engine related material that you actually stroke the engine and have simular, and sometimes large displacment and keep a safe thickness of cylindar wall. for example you could stroke the engine 78mm and bore only 90mm and end up with a 1985cc motor...Or even stroke it 82mm and bore it 90.5 and have a 2110cc.

But why don't you see more folks doing this instead of boring the cylindar?

With stroking you end up with more bottom end, and paying for more parts, but why not go that route if its gonna run a bit cooler than boring the heck out of it. I would think stroking would be safer in the long run, and possibly making a more reliable engine...am i wrong?
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'66 Vert, with a long ways to go!
'66 Vert

[Poor Realist]

remember, when you upgrade the engine, you also need to upgrade the induction/exhaust. Say good bye to heater boxes...

[Cap'n Tea Bag]

[gophercat]

[56_oval]

i just wanted to throw my 2 cents in real quick. i have a 56 with a pro built 1835. yes, the walls are thinner, but with the right cooling, you'll be fine (i run an electric cooler inside the car mounted to the pan with a hole cut for cooling). it's right there behind the driver seat. i know not everyone can run something like this, but there are ways around it.
now that's not really what i had to say. i work in an aircooled shop here in texas, and too many times have i seen guys build these bad ass engines and forget the most important thing, the transaxle. i mean, what good is a big motor without a way to tranfer the power to the wheels.
you have to build a strong tranny if you build a high torque engine. you hear people say all the time, 'i wont put my foot in it', but they do. i mean, what do ya want the extra power if you're not gonna use it?
either way, anyone who builds a big motor, build a tranny first, it'll save your ass time and money in the long run. either way, good luck.

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WHO YOU CALLING PSYCHO!?!?!

[stiltwalker39]

As for the 1914. I got some bad news this week I was hoping to build a 1914 for my 1970 bug and I was told the case had large case savers and I could not go to the 1914 and it would be best to go with a 1776. All I want the car for is to run around town on the weekends. They were both going to have the stock heads and crank with a 110 cam. It will have a set of 40 Kadrons on it. What will my HP be with the 1776 and what would I have had with the 1914. I feel that I will not have a fast car now. Am I wrong? What can I do to pick up some more HP with out allot of added cost?

Carl

[HERC]

[metric autohaus]

There are alot of people telling you that you should go bigger, and I won't argue that fact. But the best way to get your power, is to spend your money on good heads, a nice cam, ratio rockers. Power is made with the head choice. You can build a powerhouse of a 1776, with good parts that will kill a cheaply built 1914. Save your money, and buy good proven parts (not chinese crap), then assemble your beast.
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High Quality VW & Porsche Restoration
http://www.metricautohaus.com

[stiltwalker39]

I will talk with my machine shop and see what he may have for me. Cost is the problem at this point. I may just go with what I have for now. I could always change the heads out at a later time. How about the HP? Maybe 90HP?