stock horsepower compared to 1776-1835cc

[justing1234]

i want to build a 1776 for my 1972, but the cheapest kit i could find is $730.
after reading the thread, i noticed some people said that you only need a 110 cam, and larger pistons&cylinders.. is this true? if so, i'll just get those, and recondition everything else... so pretty much i'd have
dual kadron 40's
110 cam
92mm cylinders and pistons
and everything else stock.... besides tuned heads
would this work?

[bugninva]

if you can't afford to build the engine, then leave it alone....
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[rustfree1967bug]

You mean 90.5 mm pistons right?
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'70 ghia
'69 ghia
'65 singlecab
'66 sunroof beetle
'74 bus
'67 so-42


IDA's...well... they talk dirty -MURZI

[dcdubs]

think of it in terms of building an efficient air pump. horse power and torque being a byproduct. carberation, heads, and exhaust wil be a huge factor in this adventure... do you want heaterboxes?

rough hp speculation without refering to technical data

1600 dp 53-60 hp
1776 dp 75-100ish hp
1835 dp 75-110ish hp
1915 dp 80-130ish hp

stroker- (larger than 69mm crank) 100hp on up (dual carbs/F.I.)

pick two...fast reliable or cheap

depends on your goals expectations and budget
i say if you have the cash to build a proper 1776 then might as well go 1915 little extra oomph and have your machinest turn down the barrels to fit a case cut for "1776" so you can run the bigger piston/barrels with less fear of #3 case damage from overboring dont set the compresiion too high so you can run the shit for fuel our government is providing us and rock out!
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dcdubs/glcustoms
AllRightGarageDoorsNW.com

[johnnypan]

Got an ancient 1835 in a package deal,long block...the case cracked at #3..the heads are almost new and a like new w110 was in the case.Have an AS41 case that linebored at .040 over and the old boy who did the machining does fly cutting as well,so he's cutting it for 92mm. figure some A&A cheapo jugs and slugs, counterbalanced crank and I'll lash on a pair of old school italian weber ICT's I scored...some polyester pants and a mullet,mullholland the 67 and Im good to go...figure Im ahead of the curve...36/40hp speed is the big thing now,wont be long before old school 1600 speed is hot,and when it is, Ill be ready.

[CaliTransVair818]

i have a 1641 with dual kads and i want to go bigger but i deliver pizza so i have to have it reliable i was thinking 1914 but i see a lot of negative emotions about em.....whats wrong with them and what about a 2024? i believe that would be the next bump up besides the 1904 and what about the 1904 better than 1914??

[66brm]

You can go big and be reliable, its just a matter of being conservative with certain aspects of your engine build. If you want it to last, stay fairly conservative on heads, cam, and compression ratio. Pay for good quality parts (yes they come at a premium sometimes) drive it like you want it to last, take care of the investment with regular servicing etc. and it will last, if you don't trust your mechanical skills then have a reputable shop build the engine for you, tell them what you are after, you driving style etc and they should be able to put a package together that will achieve your aim.
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Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

[CaliTransVair818]

talked to my local parts dealer and we figured for what i want is a 1903 he also said to talk to low budget, chico, or brothers. im going to pretty much put the set up i have now on a 1903 block which is dual 40 kads which i might rebuild to 44. should i get a bigger headers is a 1903 bigger valves then 1641?

[drockhead]

The big expense in performance isn't necessarily in the machining, in fact, that price is rather static no matter how large of a bore you go too.

The majority cost of a high performance VW engine is (and will always be) in the intake and exhaust.

You can spend more in a good quality intake (heads and carburator) than the rest of the motor and it would not be a wasted expense.

[theastronaut]

Link


1964 VW Bug, full weight.
1679cc
DPR counterweighted crank 69mm
Thick wall 88mm cylinders.
FK-41 cam on 112LC
.035 deck
9.6:1 CR
Dual 36mm Dellorto DRLA carbs, 30mm vents.
041 heads- no port work, single springs.
1.4 rockers.
Stock trans with 4.37 R&P
205/70-15 tires.
90 hp 115 tq

Any issues with reliability is from poor workmanship and cheap/inferior parts. Buy the best and put it together the RIGHT way (no guessing) and it'll live a long happy life. Dual carbs aren't a pain either, I've put over 50k miles on mine with dual 36 dells and it hasn't given me the first bit of trouble. They don't need re-syncing all the time unless you buy crap linkage or can't properly assemble and adjust good linkage.

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Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exist and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."
-Sir Henry Royce, co-founder of Rolls-Royce

'64 Beetle Sunroof OG Bahama Blue
'63 Beetle Vert
'66 Beetle
'88 Festiva L
'89 Festiva L
'64 Chevy C10
'66 Chevy C10

[mrbigmax]

That's pretty good out of a small motor. 0 to 60 was about 7 seconds, to 80 in about 14 seconds. And he's shifting it at about 4,000 RPM. That combo ought to pull well to 5,000 RPM.