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Dwayne1m
Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011
Posts: 3538
Location: Pennsylvania
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 Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 11:00 am Post subject: rustproofing |
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Looking for some help here. With all the products out there that claim to be the best when it comes to rustproofing, which is the best? Eastwood has its "rust encapsolater", there is POR 15, and rustoleum which someone said has the same ingrediants as Eastwoods stuff for 25% of the price, and there are many more. So many choices but do any of them really work and which ones are spitting into the wind?
Thanks. |
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Hugo Stiglitz
Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2009
Posts: 782
Location: Southern California
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drscope
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 15273
Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:35 pm Post subject: |
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One important question is what is the shape and condition of the parts you are starting with?
Is this a naked bare pan that has been sand blasted? Or a crusty fully assembled car you are trying to save?
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Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32592
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Lidpainter
Samba Anti-Hero
Joined: January 21, 2004
Posts: 2045
Location: 41.77 | -83.56
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
Bottom line, NONE of them work...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131753
Note, photo has panels rotated, look for tape lines and cutouts to ID proper placement of products on 2nd photo.
To my eyes, Eastwood or Rustbullet won this contest if a winner must be selected.
Dave |
They sat at the bottom of a pool in chrorinated water. It would have been interesting to see what would have happened under more real-world conditions.
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| EverettB wrote: |
| Thanks, time to bulk up on meat! |
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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32592
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Dwayne1m
Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011
Posts: 3538
Location: Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:36 pm Post subject: |
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Some areas are "surface rust" while others go a bit deeper. I'm restoring a '61 and I have NO experience at body work and I see all these adds and promises and I don't know what or who to believe. I've been told by some to have it acid dipped, but that costs $$$ and a hassle to transport it. Some adds say I can "just wire brush" the area and then use their product. It sounds simple and easy BUT will it work? I guess i could sand blast some areas but that raises 2 questions: 1-what blasting material do I use, and 2-What works best on bare metal (etcher, primer, etc)? So much "info" out there for a body work novice and I want to do this right and not have to do it again.
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Lidpainter
Samba Anti-Hero
Joined: January 21, 2004
Posts: 2045
Location: 41.77 | -83.56
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:36 pm Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
| Lidpainter wrote: |
They sat at the bottom of a pool in chrorinated water. It would have been interesting to see what would have happened under more real-world conditions. |
Honestly, Chlorine is simply another form of Salt. Highly corrosive to many metals. Probably not a bad test at all.
Dave |
On a submarine maybe. 
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| EverettB wrote: |
| Thanks, time to bulk up on meat! |
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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32592
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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Over the years I've come to this conclusion. I am taking the time to clean and properly paint my car as I rebuild it. IF you convert the rust or get all of the rust off and then prime it with an epoxy primer, you've sealed out the oxygen and moisture that is needed for rust to take place. Now go ahead and paint / repair as needed. Put a good top coat on it and call it good. It seems that some are obsessed with rust and preventing it from ever reoccurring.
My cars?, well they live in a garage, they don't go play in the snow and rarely the rain as they did when they were young.
By NOT being a daily driver and by living the protected life they now live, I'm really not concerned about the cancer returning to consume the car.
Heck!, It took 20 - 40 years for it to rust as bad as it did being used as a daily driver in the harsh North East. I don't have another 40 years of life in me and I won't live to see it rust away a 2nd time! Do the best you can, seal in that metal and call it good. Anyone that comes after me and has the car for 20 - 30 years, well, they can worry about the 2nd go around of rust! I'm not losing any sleep over it.
Dave
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
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Dwayne1m
Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011
Posts: 3538
Location: Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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| What do you mean when you say "convert the rust"? |
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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32592
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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drscope
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 15273
Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:06 pm Post subject: |
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One problem with acid dipping the car is it cleans all paint away. Even paint inside seams that you can't see. Then latter those seams start bleeding rust. In some cases this can get real bad, and the entire seam just disappears.
We have done a few race cars that we had acid dipped and this was always a problem latter on even though they were liberally coated with neutralizer and everything was resealed.
One nice thing about getting them dipped is there isn't ANY crusty stuff left anywhere!
I have had very good success with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. This is their Fish Oil primer, NOT their red primer! It looks the same, but they are 2 different products!
Even using this over rust seems to really stop it from getting any worse. Just wire brush off the loose stuff and paint right over it.
Many of the more expensive products like POR15 will break down from UV light. So after you coat them, you need to top coat the POR15 with something that will not allow UV light to get through.
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evlwevl
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2007
Posts: 281
Location: On the streets of Bakersfield, CA
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:35 pm Post subject: |
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I've just tried Duplicolor RustFix that sprays on clear and turns rusty metal to a black primered finish, but if the metal is clean, it stays clear. Most of my metal on my pans are a patchwork of crusty rust and and pitted clean metal from what I've been able to wire wheel off. I've started using Rustoleum Reformer that goes on like black primer. Only time will tell if it sealed the metal.
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