40 HP engine build with a 1385 ccm big bore kit

[akomjathy]

[Jacks]

[Bluemanx212]

Dont do it lifters are cheap and it is a pain in the ass to split the case to change them when they fail and they will!

[akomjathy]

[Jacks]

Camshaft lobes can fail in as little as 500mi. and where do you think that all that ground up metal goes?
_________________
Jack Staggs
Actual name

[akomjathy]

[bugmandave]

Send them off to webcamshafts for refacing. Og is always better than aftermarket.
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'63 Karmann Cabriolet L456 Rubin (Ruby Red)
'71 Westfalia campmobile tourist delivery
January '59 SWR panel
'63 Karmann Cabriolet L54 Poppy Red

[Jacks]

[akomjathy]

[akomjathy]

[bugguy1967]

I have to add to bug_65's post about reusing lifters; They can only be reused IF they're going back in the same case AND they were numbered according to their locations in the engine originally. You'd be gambling by using numbered lifters and cam in another block. How would you know if everything was machined the same as the old block?

Also, there is some truth in keeping cam/lifter brands together and following the grinder's recommendation, but in my many dealings with the new Engle in Paramount, I've found holes in this methodology.

Engle has at least two different billets in-house at all times. The CWC billet has been around for ages. The SC-1 billet, which has cast-in notches is a newer billet. It's probably been around for 10-15 years now. The CWC has been used with German reground, German Wizemann, Brazilian Riosulence, Brazilian 30mm "Bigfoots"...you name it. The SC-1 billet is of a much harder material. SCAT was the first company to introduce the billet, and they are "said" to have the only true compatible lifters, since their lifters are of a similar hardness.

If you ask Jack at Engle which lifters to use with ANY of their billets, he'll say Engle, for obvious reasons. Sales. If it fails, I guarantee they won't stand by their products. Their lifters are not made in-house. They buy them wholesale from some company that has horrible quality control with an Engle stamp on the shaft, then markets them as compatible lifters. Do they work with CWCs? Yes. Are they big, heavy, contributing toward valve float, have crowns of all different thicknesses, have undersized journals? The answer is also yes.

There is also the EP-12 billet out there, which is similar in hardness to the CWC. The markings are on the cams. Find out what you have, and select your lifters accordingly.

I buy Engle Camshafts, then use CB 28mm lifters, if it's a CWC. If SC-1, I use SCAT's new 71 gram "Window" lifters. Just broke in a SC-1 with SCATs at JayCee, and all went perfectly.
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"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[akomjathy]

What is the minimum required clearence between the lobe and the lifters? Is it 1 mm or 0,040 inch? Because, it seems I have to machine work the head of my lifters on the back side.

[Kjell Roar]

I have worked with motorcycles for 14 years, from the 80ties to 2001.
I worked with Honda, who had big camshaft problems on some engines from early/mid-80ies.

The easiest solution to the camshaft problem, was to use ester based full syntetic oil, we used Motul 300V. Its because it have an extreme oil film, that takes 22 000kg/sq cm before it breaks and you get metal against metal.
A mineral oil "only" manage 6-700 kg/sq cm pressure before the same happend.
And wear on new cams have to be metal against metal, eg the oil didnt manage the pressure.

We also changed a lot of camshafts without changing all lifters, but never put 2 used parts against each other, if they didnt had worked toghether before. One part with fresh metal, and one used, was ok, because the new one was run in to the used part.
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I got a historic car, every scratch got a history...

My car, Aug. 4th, 1955 / an early 56: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=610438

[bugguy1967]

That doesn't make sense to me... Cam lobes and lifters need to burnish together. They must make metal-to-metal contact, right? How else would they wear evenly together?
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[akomjathy]

Here is my engine:

When I turn it around with my hand, I hear a kind of "lifter" noise somewhere on the 3 rd and 4th side. Otherwise the engine has a beautiful voice, but in low RPM, so something like 7-800, I can hear this knocking,too. But, if I put more RPM, there is no voice! What could be the problem?? The clearence between the lobe and lifter are more than .04.... I used the stock valve springs, I was thinking about maybe they are too weak to hold the heavy Engle lifters?? What do you think?

[bug_65]

Your engine looks really good, great job.

I had a knocking in my engine at low rpms and was caused when the cam was at full lift the valve retainer would bottom out on the valve guide boss making a knocking sound. I suggest removing you rocker cover and turning the engine over by hand and see if the valve retainer is bottoming out.

I did not know what it was and ignored it and had to have my heads rebuilt with new guides and clearance done for the higher lift.

[akomjathy]

[akomjathy]

Today, I tried to figure out what could be the problem. First, I took down both rocker assemblies. Then turned around the engineand still heard the knocking voices. After that I took out the spark plugs. Started on the 3 rd cylinder and turned around the engine. There was no voice! Then went around with all other spark plugs, but the knocking voice is still on! So, finally I took the cylinder head and the cylinders. Everything seems very very clean and nice. Cannot find the problem....
My rod bearings are brand new Kolbenschmidt (German). The piston cylinder set is from AA Performance, the bearings for the pins in my rods are new. The rod doesn't touch the liner. I clearanced the engine case to have enough place for the pistons. The pistons doesn't touch the cylinder head at any points. The piston is 1,3 mm from the top to touch the cylinder head in all four cylinders.
ANY IDEA???

[Gearfinger]

This is a time when looking at the crank pulley when the knock showed would have helped. Might have noticed where in the stroke the noise showed.

Do you recall if the noise came at the "rockover" phase of top dead center or bottom dead center on #3? I'm thinking that rod isn't true, creating a side or twisting thrust upon the changing directional forces the crank rotation creates.

Or, the wrist pin bushing is worn or loose in the rod.

Or, ...


You did check to see if the noise went away with the clutch pedal pushed down, yes?

[akomjathy]