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71 Super won't idle. Losing my mind
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usmcbrowns
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bottom line up front.... I can't get it to start now.

Here's what i did.
Turned Dizzy roughly 180. Watched video. Notch more or less faces 5 o'clock. Video says maybe it should be at 2'oclock roughly. Regardless, tried it both ways.

Then i wired up the dizzy... #1 spark plug being where the notch is.

Got a huge backfire noise. Had to change shorts.

Came back... recheck wiring. clockwise, 1,4,3,2. Good to go. kept manually moving dizzy back and forth a little bit hoping to get it to try to turn over. Nothing.

I have Muir's manual and the google box as my manuals. Plus Rob and Dave's site which is pretty good and of course... The Samba
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talljordan
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post another picture of your dizzy?
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usmcbrowns
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pics in a bit.

Had an epiphany but it didn't change much. Okay, dizzy turned 180... this time i put the plug wires back in their original location like was mentioned on here before. Some reason that didn't make sense earlier.

Anyway, boom... We have ignition and motor is running. Still won't idle.

I haven't timed it properly yet. But... just by the ear dyno with letting it warm up and by hand slightly moving the dizzy here and there, it still wants to fall on its face after a couple teeth on the cam for the choke

Good news is... dizzy is on correctly.

For reference, dizzy notch is at 5:00... #1 wire is at 11:00.
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talljordan
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That doesnt make sense. Your notch should line up with the #1 cylinder, otherwise you are lighting #3 when you should be lighting #1. Are you sure you know which cylinder is which number?

Where is the notch on your dizzy?
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usmcbrowns
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Okay, dizzy moved 180.

For reference #1 wire is at roughly 11:00. Notch on dizzy is actually at roughly 5:00.

I know... fuel filter. I'll do that in a little bit.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I still think you are wired wrong, but it is hard to say without being there.
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usmcbrowns
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, i know where the cylinders are. front to rear on pass is 1, then 2
fron to rear on drivers, 3 then 4

Now, when i did the valves this morning, i found TDC found a little slop in 1 and adjusted them to .006 but prior to doing that, i rotated to TDC on the pulley one more time (should be on 3 now.) and checked #1 cylinder, no play... couldn't wedge a feeler gauge in there if i tried. SO... one more time back to TDC and dowel on the cylinder to find TDC and then made sure .006 was the gap all the way around the car. Rotating pulley counterclockwise throughout the motions be able to do 1, 2, 3, 4 in that order.

Does this all sound right?
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Last edited by usmcbrowns on Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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usmcbrowns
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If i align the notch with #1 cylinder, then the rotor on that notch reads on the pulley at BDC.
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Bob Brugge
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bummer deal.
Way back in the day I was sanding some plugs trying to improve the spark that I got from it and an engineer told me that sandpaper will leave minute bits of silica on the plugs that will turn to glass and cause it to run like crappus.
I always use a wire wheel now.
Next, there are some real good threads on here about how to time your engine based on the dizzy you have. It seems like you may need to slow down, and restart at the basics. Get your static timing at least, and be sure, and then be damn sure you are looking at the RIGHT timing marks on your pulley.
Go from there, firing order, wires are good and or tight, choke works, fuel cut off is wired right, and the valve lash is set right. Do it from the start, and work your way through.
Go from there and good luck.
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usmcbrowns
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

choke working right.

I read somewhere to unplug that solenoid on the left of carb while ignition is on and ensure you hear a click when you unplug/plug it back in.

I don't think i'm hearing that click.

??
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice to have Google, but you need repair manuals 'cause there are going to be plenty of places you will need info and find there is no WiFi or cell signal.

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Service-Manual-Be...ice+Manual
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usmcbrowns
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At this point, i'm gonna take a break. I have to be in Wilmington tomorrow to drop off the vette. When i get home, I'll entertain going over all this again.

Here's what I'm hearing;
Start over.

Im going to check the valves again. Seems if you're on #3, you'll get no gap/lash in #1. Anyway, valves again.
Then ensure timing is done right. I'll bust out the timing light and after all wires are tight and connections are good... do the timing. Static timing... I will do that first. My pulley is an EMPI pulley... So, there's not grooves, just degree markings all the way around it.
Then reset needles to 2 1/2 turns out on the carb (bypass and air needles)
Then go from there again.

Maybe its time for a beer and Skype with the daughter and make noises at the grand baby.
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usmcbrowns
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Nice to have Google, but you need repair manuals 'cause there are going to be plenty of places you will need info and find there is no WiFi or cell signal.

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Service-Manual-Be...ice+Manual


I take it this is the manual of choice these days?

Back well past some 25+ years ago, i had a 71 SB and had this old Manual of Muir's from my Dad or someone. It was great. There was a part in the manual at that time as I was swapping motors, where it literally said to sit back and light up a joint and marvel at the work you've just done. Amazing. Anyway, like i said, i have a 7,000th edition of Muir's manual. Little more PC these days, but I like where you'er going with this manual. Its in the Amazon cart. Time to purchase.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get some hose clamps on the top and bottom ends of the fresh air tubes going from fan shroud to heat exchangers. You do not want one of those popping off and frying a head.

Put on a list to get a stock air cleaner sometime sooner than later.

Where do you have the hose on the oil filler connected up to?

Post more images of the engine and one from left side looking at front of fan shroud.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Get some hose clamps on the top and bottom ends of the fresh air tubes going from fan shroud to heat exchangers. You do not want one of those popping off and frying a head.

Put on a list to get a stock air cleaner sometime sooner than later.

Where do you have the hose on the oil filler connected up to?

Post more images of the engine and one from left side looking at front of fan shroud.


Great questions.... and i have answers to everyone of these.

I have the stock air cleaner still. It's parked right next to the Vette. I have kept virtually all parts from this "rebuild" until I'm certain i won't need them again. Even then, i keep 95% of them. Pretty sure i'm a Class 3 hoarder.

Next, Hose on the oil filler connected to? Nothing. Its just hanging out. Im curious about that. All the more reason to hook back up the stock air cleaner.

Left side looking at front of fan shroud????
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignore the notch on the distributor. It is likely the distributor drive gear is installed incorrectly, making the notch useless. This won't hurt anything. Just make sure you have plug wires in the correct firing order and the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire when at TDC.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Q-Dog wrote:
Ignore the notch on the distributor. It is likely the distributor drive gear is installed incorrectly, making the notch useless. This won't hurt anything. Just make sure you have plug wires in the correct firing order and the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire when at TDC.


This is an excellent point and is something I hadn't considered.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Muir's manual is a great one for a beginner who needs to be taught the basics of how and why it works, plus the humor in it helps to sweeten to easy readability.

Bentley is the factory manual for the VW customer, with no humor makes for rather dry reading, but it has really good photos (each worth a thousand words) and step by step procedures to go with them.

Downside with Muir is he got a lot of tech things wrong, the diagrams are real kick, but needs ten times more of those. Plus try to sort out from say DP 1600 from 40 HP or 36 HP engine info can be all too easily to be mix up on.

Bentley at most has mistakes that can be counted on less than one hand of fingers. Also covers much much more of the VW than Muir ever did.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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usmcbrowns
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have hose replacements already. Those are just fillers. And I have hose clamps.
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