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A/C now not so cool - '90 Westy
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AtlasShrugged
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Without knowing what the high side pressures are..The OP did not say...everything is a shot in the dark. We know the low side was 35-45psi..but the high side psi will be helpful to know.
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RBEmerson
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

~160-170 PSI and somewhat higher after overcharging.
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AtlasShrugged
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay so we are at 160-170 over 35-45 for pressures..at idle?

Front condenser fan coming on? Yes, If so..

What are the hi side/low side pressures if you rev the engine to 2000 rpm and hold it there for a minute? Are the pressures stable?
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RBEmerson
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the fan comes as expected.

I've forgotten the pressures. The system is now empty, ruling out checking that at the moment. The R12A shipment is due the middle of next week.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RBEmerson wrote:
Yes, the fan comes as expected.

I've forgotten the pressures. The system is now empty, ruling out checking that at the moment. The R12A shipment is due the middle of next week.


System is empty in this humidity?
Pull a vacuum so you don't lose your receiver drier to moisture.

Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
RBEmerson wrote:
Yes, the fan comes as expected.

I've forgotten the pressures. The system is now empty, ruling out checking that at the moment. The R12A shipment is due the middle of next week.


System is empty in this humidity?
Pull a vacuum so you don't lose your receiver drier to moisture.

Dave


While it's not as good as replacing the receiver-drier, it is possible to remove most of the moisture trapped in the desiccant by placing a 100W light bulb or similarly safe heating source under the R/D when the system is being evacuated. I have done this in my Audis where access to the accumulator (orifice tube system's equivalent to R/D) for replacement would requires hours of disassembly, yet the bottom of the accumulator is just barely accessible for heating. I left the vacuum pump running overnight for this as I believe it takes time to cook the water out of the desiccant in the R/D or accumulator. YMMV.
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RBEmerson
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Empty = 2.5 hours tied to a 2.5 CFM vacuum pump than can pull to 75 microns.

The drier sight glass still has a green not yellow ring.
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RBEmerson
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The system has been recharged and is currently holding about 38 PSI on the low side. The previously reported oscillating needle has stopped. The high side is holding at about 150 PSI. This evening I checked the vent temperature and got down to 50F or slightly less. The ambient temperature was 70F or less, so this isn't a real test. We'll see what happens tomorrow, with temps in the 80's and full sun.

The big change in this recharge is spraying the radiator and condenser with water from a garden hose. This dropped high side readings by 30-40 PSI. I started the job without the hose and saw the pressure hitting 180+ - Not Good. Using the hose dropped the pressure like a rock.

I'll retract my comments about fractionating. Red Tek says this not a problem. When venting, they do say that the discharge has oil mixed into it. That's a real fire hazard.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why is it an issue to run a box fan on the condensor as your loading the system up?

38 psi is too high, 150 is too low.

I didn't know , haven't ever seen a water cooled condensor on any vehicle--never.

Your taking your own path here again in getting this thing up & running and it ain't right.
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RBEmerson
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sigh... I knew you'd say that.

On the pressures, I am certain that you know far more about Red Tek than the tech support people at Thermofluid Technologies. I'll be sure to tell them how in error they are.

Spraying 60F water works. It beats blowing low speed ambient air, already hot, at the condenser.

The air conditioning in my Vanagon is doing a good job regardless of your naysaying. Get over yourself.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your 100% correct on all counts.
It's about time you discovered that.

Plunder away--which obviously is nothing new to you.
You're the guy that's been on this job for 2 years, and still haven't moved an inch, and more than likely will be on it for another 2 or 3 at this pace.
Not me--

Who in the hell said low air speed on the box fan?
You did--and again you're still on your own failure rate program here--don't change anything.

And at 90 degrees in Johnstown PA. you have lower ambient air temps blowing into the condenser at highway speed?
Oh--I see--you have a water tank on the roof blowing cool water on the condenser while on the roll to get better vent temps--
For sure you don't have any inkling on how to follow instructions--gathered here, or in any AC manual.

Bravo.
You have just won the the First Alfred E. Neuman award-
You ain't worried about anything--that's pretty plain & simple. Applause
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AtlasShrugged
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RBEmerson wrote:
The system has been recharged and is currently holding about 38 PSI on the low side. The previously reported oscillating needle has stopped. The high side is holding at about 150 PSI. This evening I checked the vent temperature and got down to 50F or slightly less. The ambient temperature was 70F or less, so this isn't a real test. We'll see what happens tomorrow, with temps in the 80's and full sun.

The big change in this recharge is spraying the radiator and condenser with water from a garden hose. This dropped high side readings by 30-40 PSI. I started the job without the hose and saw the pressure hitting 180+ - Not Good. Using the hose dropped the pressure like a rock.

I'll retract my comments about fractionating. Red Tek says this not a problem. When venting, they do say that the discharge has oil mixed into it. That's a real fire hazard.



I would not be too concerned about the high side pressure drop when you spray the condenser with water...that is very normal and only tells you that there is more heat transfer when the condenser is wet..which is what you would expect. A 40psi drop is normal.

I would not be too concerned with a pressure reading of 180psi high side, at idle. If the front condenser fan is blowing as it should and the system is charged pretty close to the correct amount of refrigerant..180psi is nothing to worry about. On a warm Atlanta day I've seen 200/220psi with HC12a..at idle.

If you have about 40psi low side and 180psi high side (stable pressures) the A/C system should be cooling pretty well, even at an idle speed of 900rpm.

I would strongly suggest checking your A/C pressures with a box fan or big blower placed at the front of the Vanagon, blowing air on the condenser. Then with the A/C temp switch turned to max and the fan on 3rd speed..rev the engine to 2000rpm and note the pressures. High side and Low side. Put a thermometer in the A/C vents somewhere and check the vent temps. Remember that we have a big cabin area to chill..so don't look for Lexus level A/C temps..just note the vent temps after a minute or two at 2000rpm, with a box fan running on the front condenser.

While checking your pressures as above, look at the suction line going to the compressor..the metal part of the line on the back of the compressor..it should be (if you have any humidity) sweating H2O slightly. Feel the suction line..it should feel cold, like a beverage can out of the refrigerator..and the high side pressure line should be warm or (be careful) hot.

Test it and lets see what you got.
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RBEmerson
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Referring to Thermoflluid Technologies (TT - the company name vs. product name), 180 PSI is definitely the upper boundary when charging the system. 40 PSI is acceptable in hot weather. Temps here will be in the lower 80's, so I'll shade my sense of "that's enough" accordingly.

Yesterday, while doing the top-off charge, temps were well into the 80's and the drive was throwing up heat from the sunlight. At a guess, I'd say the temperature at the condenser was well into the 90's. The box fan moves a lot of air but the high speed still isn't all that fast - maybe 15-20 MPH at best? As a seat of the pants test, it'll blow leaves around but won't raise dust. 20 MPH is, therefore, probably generous. (Google on reading wind speeds by eyeball). Anyway, blowing 85-90F air, while trying to dial in the charge, doesn't strike me as a winner. Farf (username) suggested misting and I agree with him that it's a good way to make the condenser think ambient temps are lower.

Reality says that on the road, it's easy to get stuck in traffic, with really hot pavement and hot air. Obviously pressures will rise accordingly. For now, however, I want to be close to "friendly" conditions, as per TT's tech support.

I've been reading vent temperatures all along. I agree that reading cabin temps will be misleading at best. The only subjective test I use is during a test drive: if the air's uncomfortably cold on my neck (it happens), things can't be too far off. But the data that objectively says what's happening is vent temperature. BTW, I have two thermometers, a standard a/c tech mechanical thermometer, and a digital kitchen thermometer. They agree within a degree or two; either they're both off (unlikely) or I've got good data (likely).

I've got a 45 minute "real world" drive (mostly Interstate) this morning. That should tell me more. If the weather forecast is to be believed, the return trip should be in full sun and 80F+. If the vent temp holds as expected, "movie over". Time to bolt the cover back over the high port.

More later.
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AtlasShrugged
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would agree 180psi is the upper level When Charging the System...for sure.

Operational pressures are a different story and the high side will move around to higher than 180psi depending on conditions.

The box fan is an additional airflow..even if it not much..everything helps in testing. Don't over think the testing.

Pressures at 2000rpm..with even a 10mph box fan air flow on the front of the Vanagon...the readings are important.

Sweating suction line? That tells a story too.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now showing 46F on both thermometers. Mission accomplished. Out.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work.

I went the same approach (hose spraying condensor) when I was having trouble
dialing in pressures this spring. Eventually settled in at 39° at the vents.

Ultimately you gotta go with what's working.

Keep cool! Cool

- Dave
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


Link

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ Or else some minor, unknown, random, single-or-combination of issues with
his/mine/our AC systems that's a shot-in-the-dark to diagnose over the internets...???

Pick one or more:
- not-quite-perfectly clean system, even after DIY flush...
- not-quite-fully-evacuated system before charging, resulting in...
- slight latent moisture in system...
- slightly marginal compressor...
- slightly blocked exp. valve...
- more-or-less-effective blower fan while charging...
- anywhere from perfect to marginal gauge set...
- others...(make up your own, it's fun!)...

Any one of these conditions will display a particular symptom and point to a likely
cause, but a combination can certainly make it challenging to narrow down, right?

Despite all our internet buddies, we're ultimately all on our own out here in DIY-land,
and any of us may or may not have the time/interest/budget to "do-over" a job until
it comes out like the textbook suggests... Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes

PS: Seriously though, and ranting aside, thanks for your helpful input over the years, TK. Cool

- Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Certain things are best for the pros. Even most repair shops don't like to mess with A/C systems. I would take it to the A/C specialist. They have all the right tools to diagnose the problems. No need to guess and spend countless hours.

I had some issues and took it to A/C specialist and it took them less them 20 min to figure out what was wrong with the system. By the way, check with Yelp for good reviews.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whynotvw wrote:
Certain things are best for the pros. Even most repair shops don't like to mess with A/C systems...


OP has used RedTek. An effective DIY product by all accounts but I think it is unlikely that most A/C shops will want to work on vehicles charged with anything other than R12 or R134a.

They might offer opinions but are typically not set-up to recover and use alternative refrigerants. This is not some sinister conspiracy, just a practical limitation due to the requirements a responsible, licensed shop must comply with to do business.
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