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Fuel gauge, blinker, hazards not working.
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fourstroke650
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:49 pm    Post subject: Fuel gauge, blinker, hazards not working. Reply with quote

Hi All,

I just acquired a 70 Beetle. The blinkers hazards both worked and the gas gauge worked but showed half tank when full. Also the blinkers worked but wouldn't click back after turns but I ride motorcycle so used to that. Couple days ago I installed a 12 volt plug which I attached to the horn wires so to be only usable when cars running. Well this morning I noticed the blinkers weren't working. I stopped to get gas and parked for work. Then I came out and checked the hazards and those too weren't working. Also when i drive home I then noticed the gas gauge (which worked in morning when I put in gas) stopped working. Then I checked the brakes and those were not working when applied. However the rear brake lights are lit when headlights are on.

Is there a relay or fuse that would affect all these items? Or even worse would something have had to be shorted? [/u]
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check fuses.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hazards and the turn signals run off of different fuses, both routed through the emergency flasher switch. So, often times when both functions stop working at the same time, it's because the emergency flasher switch has come apart. However, it could be a turn signal wire has somehow shorted to ground, which blew your turn signal fuse, then when you tried the e-flashers, blew the other fuse.

Anyhow, as stated above, start by looking at the fuse box. You tapped the horn circuit you said? That's fuse 1, which is also the power for the turn signals and fuel gauge. The E-flashers are either fuse 9 or 10 (the factory wiring diagram says 9, the Owner's Manual says 10) Oh, and the brake lights are from Fuse 2.

In 1970, these are all 8 amp fuses (if ceramic, all white in color, no red or blue ones! )

Are you sure you're seeing brake lights, or the rear marker lights when the headlights are on?

-Andy

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/70beetle/46.jpg

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug_7071.jpg
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Kiptere
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same problem a while back. All those things are controlled by one fuse. I think the first one.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. Horn, Fuel Gauge and Turn Signals are all fuse 1... but the brake lights and Emergency Flashers are on different fuses.
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fourstroke650
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks folks I will just go through all and clean and replace them. Maybe I should just run complete separate line to battery for 12 volt?
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you disconnect the battery while cleaning the fuse holders. Other wise you may see arcky sparky.
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fourstroke650
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gt1953 wrote:
Make sure you disconnect the battery while cleaning the fuse holders. Other wise you may see arcky sparky.
lol thanks. I actually probably wouldn't have thought of that.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I pulled fuses and cleaned. All seemed ok and everything started working again except the hazards. I did notice some fuses too low amps and plastic so waiting for ceramics to be shipped. At least I'm safe for a while. I also think it was from the 12v over powering the lines or something. So gonna run direct to battery.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you want the hazards to work? (in other words, do you want any instruction on what to check next)

Fuses can look OK but still have been making bad contact. Sometimes just rotating them a little bit will get them to make contact again.
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fourstroke650
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
Did you want the hazards to work? (in other words, do you want any instruction on what to check next)

Fuses can look OK but still have been making bad contact. Sometimes just rotating them a little bit will get them to make contact again.


Absolutely. I am going to be tinkering tomorrow.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, well the hazard switch does basically two things. When the switch is off, it routes power from a fuse on Terminal 15 (powered with the ignition switch turned on) to terminal 49 on flasher relay. When you pull the switch out, it breaks that connection, and instead connects the flasher relay terminal 49 over to a fuse on Terminal 30 (which has power at all times regardless of the igniton switch) while also hooking up the left and right blinker lights and connecting them to terminal 49A on the flasher relay.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




So you need to verify that you have +12V reaching terminal 30 on the Emergency Flasher Switch. If you don't then you need to trace that big red wire back and find out why it's not got power.

The biggest weak link in the flasher circuit is the emergency flasher switch - they fall apart ( the contact plate pops off ) which puts both turn signals and the e-flashers out of commission. Sometimes people just bypass the switch instead of dealing with it (you can often just pop that plate back in place and run a zip-tie around it for a cheap fix )

-Andy
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fourstroke650
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
Okay, well the hazard switch does basically two things. When the switch is off, it routes power from a fuse on Terminal 15 (powered with the ignition switch turned on) to terminal 49 on flasher relay. When you pull the switch out, it breaks that connection, and instead connects the flasher relay terminal 49 over to a fuse on Terminal 30 (which has power at all times regardless of the igniton switch) while also hooking up the left and right blinker lights and connecting them to terminal 49A on the flasher relay.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




So you need to verify that you have +12V reaching terminal 30 on the Emergency Flasher Switch. If you don't then you need to trace that big red wire back and find out why it's not got power.

The biggest weak link in the flasher circuit is the emergency flasher switch - they fall apart ( the contact plate pops off ) which puts both turn signals and the e-flashers out of commission. Sometimes people just bypass the switch instead of dealing with it (you can often just pop that plate back in place and run a zip-tie around it for a cheap fix )

-Andy


The blinkers and gas gauge and brake lights came back after I cleaned the fuses. So I'm a little confused. Both hazards and blinkers worked prior to the issue. This all seemed to start after I installed the 12 volt to the horn wires. The only thing I know that didn't work was the stock radio.
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fourstroke650
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So where would input my meter to see if 30 is getting power. Excuse my ignorance this is my first beetle. I do have a Haynes. I will be digging into this noonish tomorrow.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Find a good ground source on the body for the ground lead of the meter and for the positive, check the Big Red Wire going to the emergency flasher switch. Fuses 9 and 10 should have +12V at all times, and one of them should have that red wire hooked up to it.
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fourstroke650
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect thanks. I will check in tomorrow after. Thanks for the help.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So Of course as I pull into Autozone the battery dies. Evil or Very Mad And I get a call to go into DR. So I haven't had time to figure THAT out. I pulled battery and charging it now. I was wondering if the rear defrost drained the battery? What is the "ON" position for the little switch. The manual doesn't say right or left. It did say not to leave on or it would drain but I have no idea whether it works either I was toggling it when I bought it trying to figure out what it was. I wonder if the lack of juice is why I was having all these issues. The battery date is 7/14 so a year old. When I try to start it I have 12v no load, and 6.something with a load. It will be a few days before I can finish figuring this out because I work weekends. Confused
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's the alternator. Ran the usual tests to see and does seem that's the culprit. Does anyone know if I upgrade the amps will I need a different alternator stand too? Or is that's standard size. It is an alternator there not a generator. In other words to be safe I wanna get a 90 amp instead of the 55 or whatever it is now. Also if I do that will I need larger fuses etc?
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