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richierich
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Joined: December 23, 2004
Posts: 889
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 Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:52 am Post subject: New distributor - I'm puzzled! |
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Hi all - have a stock 1600dp in my bus. It had a Bocar carb fitted along with a 009 distributor and ran like ****. So, I've had my original German Solex 34 pict 3 rebuilt and am going to fit a new vacuum advance distributor that I have bought as I know the stock carbs don't work well with the 009.
The problem is, when I've put in the new distributor, with the crank at TDC the notch in the rim is at kind of the 1 o'clock position rather than 5 o'clock ish where I think it ought to be......
Am I missing somehing here?
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24759
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds like the distributor drive was installed at the wrong angle. Get a drive puller and re-align.
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busdaddy
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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SVDA's are 90 degrees off from the 009, move the wires one hole over.
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richierich
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Joined: December 23, 2004
Posts: 889
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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Busdaddy - is that an absolute def? It is an SVDA distributor...
Actually Busdaddy - no need to answer that - you wouldn't have said it if you weren't certain - sorry! So the plug leads just move one position round anti-clockwise then right?
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campingbox 
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Joined: November 14, 2000
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Location: Petaluma, CA
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 12:54 pm Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| SVDA's are 90 degrees off from the 009, move the wires one hole over. |
You need to be careful when doing this, I have heard some distributors have a special lobe to make the number 3 cylinder run cooler. |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
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Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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OLD VW NUT
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Joined: February 23, 2011
Posts: 2776
Location: High Desert of Washington 98823
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:22 pm Post subject: |
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| campingbox wrote: |
| busdaddy wrote: |
| SVDA's are 90 degrees off from the 009, move the wires one hole over. |
You need to be careful when doing this, I have heard some distributors have a special lobe to make the number 3 cylinder run cooler. |
Some pre 71 distributors had #3 lobe retarded - IIRC about 5-7* retarded. This was because the oil cooler was in the path of #3 which hampered air flow. Actually air to #4 was also impeded but not as severely as #3. With the doghouse cooler being set out and away from the direct air no retard was needed. I think it was the 66-70 motors that did that.
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Last edited by OLD VW NUT on Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:23 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:22 pm Post subject: |
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Agreed as well, AFAIK the retarded #3 is only found on SVSA's and DVDA's are all evenly timed.
You also may have issues with the vacuum can hitting something before you can time it correctly, in that case the drive must be moved (don't lose those washers).
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KevinAlbrecht
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 970
Location: Ocean City > Boca > Pompano > Kirkland > Eugene
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| Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 9:09 pm Post subject: Re: New distributor - I'm puzzled! |
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| richierich wrote: |
Hi all - have a stock 1600dp in my bus. It had a Bocar carb fitted along with a 009 distributor and ran like ****. So, I've had my original German Solex 34 pict 3 rebuilt and am going to fit a new vacuum advance distributor that I have bought as I know the stock carbs don't work well with the 009.
The problem is, when I've put in the new distributor, with the crank at TDC the notch in the rim is at kind of the 1 o'clock position rather than 5 o'clock ish where I think it ought to be......
Am I missing somehing here? |
Where'd you get the dist? I bought a new 034 SVDA from Aircooled.Net, and the notch is definitrly different than my .009. I think you just need to be confident where #1 is (Remove #1 and see where TDH is), and then time from there.
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| WideFive wrote: |
| Single carbs are for lawn mowers! |
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richierich
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Joined: December 23, 2004
Posts: 889
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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Ok - this morning I got the number one plug out and found top dead center which concurred with the marking on the pulley. The notch on the distributor rim is indeed at about 2 o'clock. Moved the plug leads to suit, timed it up and its running like ****!
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quartermilecamel
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Joined: April 16, 2008
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Location: ohio
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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firing order off? Point gap off?
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busdaddy
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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| richierich wrote: |
| timed it up and its running like ****! |
Could you be more descriptive with that?, idles nice but dies when you give it gas?, craps out at high speed?, barely idles?
Just like it ran before the carb/dist. swap?, or a different sort of ****! ?
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24759
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Recheck EACH plug cable to make sure you did not mix up two or more of them.
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richierich
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Joined: December 23, 2004
Posts: 889
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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Firing order is correct - I've checked and double/triple checked that all plug leads are correct. When I took it on a short drive it runs ok and seems to have more power than before with the 009 etc BUT once the engine comes off choke it just does not want to idle at all, is lumpy and after about 15 seconds, dies. Bizzarely, if I partially cup my hand over the top of the carb (with air filter off) it idles better..! Maybe a clue here for those of you more experienced than me??
Considering it now has all new ignition components, new plugs and points (correctly gapped) valves clearances done and freshly rebuilt carb - I'm thinking either fuel pump pushrod or a vacuum leak somewhere along the inlet pipework. What do you guys think?
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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Too lean, but since it doesn't die under power the pump is out of the picture. Do a vacuum leak check by spraying something flammable on all the manifold joints and see if it picks up for a second. If that fails start unscrewing the smaller of the 2 brass screws on the left side of the carb until the idle improves (this assumes the throttle stop screw is adjusted properly and the butterfly is completely closed).
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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richierich
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Joined: December 23, 2004
Posts: 889
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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Good point about the fuel supply. I'm gona be vexed if there's a vacuum leak to chase.
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KevinAlbrecht
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 970
Location: Ocean City > Boca > Pompano > Kirkland > Eugene
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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| richierich wrote: |
| Good point about the fuel supply. I'm gona be vexed if there's a vacuum leak to chase. |
I got for carb tuning. Cupping the carb wouldn't make it better if the leak was after the carb, right?
You switched a bunch of things whike trying to figure out why it ran poorly, including switching carbs.
Read your plugs.
Focus on the carb now, and set it up with a baseline setting. I haven't run stock carburetion in a long time, but either the Muir guide or someone here can help with that.
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Kevin Albrecht
Wait, what...?
| WideFive wrote: |
| Single carbs are for lawn mowers! |
Don't forget those seat-belts!
Click to view image |
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richierich
Samba Member
Joined: December 23, 2004
Posts: 889
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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| KevinAlbrecht wrote: |
| richierich wrote: |
| Good point about the fuel supply. I'm gona be vexed if there's a vacuum leak to chase. |
I got for carb tuning. Cupping the carb wouldn't make it better if the leak was after the carb, right?
You switched a bunch of things whike trying to figure out why it ran poorly, including switching carbs.
Read your plugs.
Focus on the carb now, and set it up with a baseline setting. I haven't run stock carburetion in a long time, but either the Muir guide or someone here can help with that. |
It stopped running full stop with the previous Bocar carb hence me digging out an original Solex to have rebuilt. At least now it is running - if a little poorly.
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KevinAlbrecht
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 970
Location: Ocean City > Boca > Pompano > Kirkland > Eugene
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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Blah, blah,
Read your plugs... 😎
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Kevin Albrecht
Wait, what...?
| WideFive wrote: |
| Single carbs are for lawn mowers! |
Don't forget those seat-belts!
Click to view image |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51145
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not sure how much the color of the plugs can tell you about an idle issue, but pulling wires out of the cap one at a time and noticing which one(s) don't make the idle get even worse can narrow the issue down to a certain cylinder.
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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