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'71 Super "ghetto" paint job
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Cali_Army_Guy
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 3:11 pm    Post subject: '71 Super "ghetto" paint job Reply with quote

Becsuse I have more time than money I decided to paint my deck lid with rustoleum to see how it would come out. Keep in mind this is one coat. I'll probably do a couple more coats and then lightly wet sand it and see what happens. For one coat though I'm impressed. Will it last as long as a "real" paint job? Nope. Does it look as good as a "real" paint job? Nope. Does it look better than before and make more sense than a $5,000 paint job on a $500 car? Absolutely. Honestly from 10' away it looks no different than a Maaco paint job.

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During:
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After:
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The deck lid handle and vw script will be flat black and it'll obviously get new seals when it goes back together.
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Cali_Army_Guy
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the deck lid back together. I'm super impressed with how this came out.

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rlmartinez
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good. Post more pictures.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, painting it yourself takes all the pressure off of scratching/denting it down the road! Cool
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Cali_Army_Guy
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
Yeah, painting it yourself takes all the pressure off of scratching/denting it down the road! Cool


Very true!

Looking very out of place back on the car.

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Just going to do it piece by piece after work and on the weekends. It'll look goofy for a few weeks until it's all one color. That passenger rear fender is getting replaced. As well as the driver front fender.
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Cali_Army_Guy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the trunk lid back on. Still need to get the vw emblem for it.

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scottmc
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Search "rustoleum paint job" in this section. Looks almost the same color as mine. And your right it doesn't look like a 5k paint job but who cares. It's your car. I say go for it. I haven wet sanded the whole car yet, only the right fender above the headlight. Looks like it will clean up real good.
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Cali_Army_Guy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

scottmc wrote:
Search "rustoleum paint job" in this section. Looks almost the same color as mine. And your right it doesn't look like a 5k paint job but who cares. It's your car. I say go for it. I haven wet sanded the whole car yet, only the right fender above the headlight. Looks like it will clean up real good.


Yeah it'll clean up a bit after wet sanding. For a rattle can paint job I can't really complain.
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scottmc
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine wasn't from a spray can. I used quarts thinned 50/50 with acetone and sprayed from a 30$ harbor freight gun. I didn't pay close enough attention on the last coat and it went down too dry. Creating an eggshell finish in spots. 6 coats all for roughly 125 start to finish.
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OB Bus
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So C_A_G which Rustoleum are you using? How many coats? Are you using clear?
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Cali_Army_Guy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OB Bus wrote:
So C_A_G which Rustoleum are you using? How many coats? Are you using clear?


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Nothing fancy. It's a satin. Didn't want gloss. My trim will be flat black. I might do a satin clear on something small like the license plate hood, or whatever it's called, to see how I like it. The deck lid and trunk lid each have two coats. It covers pretty well. I've used just shy of three cans for what I've done so far. Nothing has been wet sanded, and honestly I may never wet sand it lol.
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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done several cars with Rustoleum spray cans .
One trick is to do individual panels one at a time and mask off the surrounding panels so you don't get " overspray dust " on adjoining panels .
Put on several good coats and you can COLOR SAND it in two weeks with 1000 wet paper...
.NO ONE will be able to tell how you did it .I had a yellow convertible people used to ask where I had it painted !!

And if you burn through when you are color sanding just go get the spray can and touch up where necessary and come back at it in 2 weeks Very Happy
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Cali_Army_Guy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grandpa pete wrote:
I have done several cars with Rustoleum spray cans .
One trick is to do individual panels one at a time and mask off the surrounding panels so you don't get " overspray dust " on adjoining panels .
Put on several good coats and you can COLOR SAND it in two weeks with 1000 wet paper...
.NO ONE will be able to tell how you did it .I had a yellow convertible people used to ask where I had it painted !!

And if you burn through when you are color sanding just go get the spray can and touch up where necessary and come back at it in 2 weeks Very Happy


Yeah I plan on doing each piece separate. Fenders will all come off and get painted. I'll pull the doors and paint them off the car as well. I have new window rubber I've been waiting to install so I'll save the body for last. Then I can pull the windows, spray the body and put the windows back in with the new rubber. I'll also have the windows tinted while they're out.
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OB Bus
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grandpa pete wrote:
I have done several cars with Rustoleum spray cans .
One trick is to do individual panels one at a time and mask off the surrounding panels so you don't get " overspray dust " on adjoining panels .
Put on several good coats and you can COLOR SAND it in two weeks with 1000 wet paper...
.NO ONE will be able to tell how you did it .I had a yellow convertible people used to ask where I had it painted !!
And if you burn through when you are color sanding just go get the spray can and touch up where necessary and come back at it in 2 weeks Very Happy

And after the 1000 wet sanding.....wax? clear?
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Cali_Army_Guy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got off my ass and did something. Got the front fenders painted. Also everything that was chrome go painted black. Headlight trim, turn signal covers, and the quarter panel moulding. Also installed new fender beading.

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Wanted to get more done, but it's been Africa hot the last few days. Kind of hard to want to go outside when you sweat just standing still. Was 104* today and supposed to be 106* tomorrow.
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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're doing GREAT!

How much money did this save you ?.... Very Happy

Wait till you see it after color sanding. Shocked
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Cali_Army_Guy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

grandpa pete wrote:
You're doing GREAT!

How much money did this save you ?.... Very Happy

Wait till you see it after color sanding. Shocked


Hard to say what if anything I'm "saving". So far I've done the deck lid and everything forward of the A pillars. All of it has two coats of paint. I've used about 7 cans of paint at $3.89 per can. It's not perfect, but it's better than the faded yellow.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I work with inks, paints and coatings. Yes.....a spray can finish CAN last as well as a dedicated finish.

What most who would complain dont realize....is that as long as the pigments and binders are quality ingredients.....and mixed properly.....an enamel is an enamel.

The differences aside from actual application ability (meaning can you shoot it, smoothly with an, even thickness).......and thigs to look out for...is that just like with regular enamels ....whether its an alkyd or urethane etc......is to put it on top of the correct primer. ...correctly prepped......and the other issue with spray can enamels......is that unlike dedicated autp finishes that you mix and spray through a gun......which use air as the propellant.......the spray cans have a slightly different thinner mix that is designed to work with the propellant.

Some of these solvents along with the propellant can get chilled during the seperation from liquid to gas coming out of the can. If its too hot...they can, evaporate to slowly....but in general if its too humid when you do this...the chilling effect along with a low dew point can condense moisture into the paint layer causing downstream problems.

Other than that.....with the right prep and conditions. ....if you can, spray it on nicely.....and clear coat or seal it properly, there is no reason why a quality spray can enamel cannot last or look as good as any other enamel. Ray
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abritinthebay
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's nothing wrong with a rattle-can paint job - as long as it's a 2K system (which yours is).

Only issue is that it won't last *quite* as long.

Put 3 coats on it, color sand down to 2000 grit (wet) then it'll look pretty good. Shoot a high-gloss clear over it first if you want (if you do that just do a light color sand with ~600 grit) and then do the high-quality sand job.

Remember to do a polish with a buffer! It's amazing how good paint will look after that.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
as long as it's a 2K system (which yours is).


Where did you see this (2K)?

It says it has "2x" (two times) the "coverage". That's not 2K.
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