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TheDon's first VW: '64 low n slow
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Discovered the master cylinder is a dual circuit. Awesome!


I'm going to tear into doing a tuneup. Points,cap,everything. I have a sun dwell meter I'm glad I dug out of my late grandathers garage, I now have a use for it!

Still in a hunt for a drivers side mirror that works well.

Also got hubcap clips and the tool. I'm thinking about getting caps and painting them body color.
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the bad photos, I'll take better photos tomorrow

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Proof I moved the fuel filter out of the engine compartment

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Waiting for hose clamps to come in but the new fuel line is really tight. I put a new grommet through the firewall for the hard line.


I have heater boxes but have no idea how to make my heat work. I'm tempted to remove them and use a non heater box stock exhaust if it exists.


I do need a new air cleaner. The bracket to tighten it down broke and it's just chillin there.I'd like to get an original.
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been very busy with house stuff and now it's starting to cool off I can resume on the bug!

I need to order my plugs and wires so I can do a tuneup but I need to replace the crumbling polyurethane rear trans mounts with OEM style. Which mean a I get to remove my first beetle engine. I hope to get it all done before bug jam.
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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So where does this go? The wire at the top of the column is attached but this one is just hanging out without a home. I didn't see anywhere to connect it to and it's not very long. I also suspect my horn might be shot. I wonder if I can rebuild it.
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Mr. Mike Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's for the horn. One of the washers on the steering wheel side of the coupler should have the male connection

Pic from gallery. See lower right
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It must have broken off at some point. Guess I need to get. New washer
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2015 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the horn works now. Yay! I do need to rebuild it since it doesn't beep clearly. It vibrates more than beeps.

Today I pulled my engine for the first time. Normally with a diesel Mercedes it's a pretty involved affair but this was cake. 4 bolts, a fuel line, some wires, and cable. I used a harbor freight transmission jack which works but it's too tall so I had to slide the engine off the jack and onto a sheet of wood to slide it out.

Pictures!!


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Success!!



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The reason for pulling the engine. I'll have to chip away at these crappy polyurethane mounts so get at the bolts to remove them. I bought some mounts from WW to put in.

After bug jam I plan on taking the engine out and doing a cleaning and freshening up so I can knock one end of the car off my list of making it nice and clean.



Side note. Work gave me a new iPhone 6 and these photos are so much better than my 5
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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2015 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good opportunity to check front tranny mount , clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing...also check the clips on the throwout bearing haven't broken ...
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Sharp64
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noticing you are in Windemere, assuming as in Central Florida? You keep mentioning ordering parts, just wanted to give you a heads up that there is a shop called Triangle Auto Parts in Winter Park off of Fairbanks that specializes in VW parts. Nice family owned business and they carry a lot of what you will need. if you're looking for hard resto parts, WW seems to be the ticket, but for a lot of the other they are in town and you don't have to wait 2-3 days for shipping.
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I order stuff from triangle and have been for years for my Mercedes. But I can only pick up parts on Saturdays so if the price of the parts and shipping works out in my favor (it's a 45 minute drive for me) I get them online

Grandpa, the front mount is brand new and not polyurethane thankfully. The clutch and associated parts are also new too.
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Sharp64
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheDon wrote:
I order stuff from triangle and have been for years for my Mercedes. But I can only pick up parts on Saturdays so if the price of the parts and shipping works out in my favor (it's a 45 minute drive for me) I get them online


Cool, I was just making sure. I had placed a decent size order to JBugs and had to wait almost 2 wks for delivery when I realized Triangle had pretty much all the parts and the prices were comparable. Good luck in your project.
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I have my new rear tranmission mounts and the cradle side mount holes do not line up at all. Do I have to remove the rear cradle to install them? If so how the heck do I get these bolts free because they are ridiculously tight on there.
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lovethatconvertible
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

impact wrench, I wanna say the cradle mount bolts are torqued around 166 ft lb's + or - . The rubber mount bolts are 14 ft. lb's
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the rear wheels and used my jack handle to break them free. Now to get new nuts an bolts to mount them since the old set were heavily corroded. I'll go with stainless steel hardware and hope for the best. This coming weekend I'm going to put the engine back in with an ATV jack.
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do I adjust the glovebox door catch? I used new rubber bumpers and it still doesn't pop out. It's almost like the sheet metal tab is messed up
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lovethatconvertible
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy this and move on to the next on the list.
Had mine for years and love it. That said, the latch and the catch still need to be in the right place.

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TheDon
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gapped my new plugs and put them in while the engines as out. Same with the wires.

Using my harbor freight atv jack to put it back in I seem to have an issue with the generator hitting the lip of the engine compartment opening. The entire pulley can't make it no matter how high I jack the car. I had the same issue pulling it out.

Any tips or tricks on getting it back in?
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Rome
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the rear of your car jacked up, your transmission face where the engine mounts is at a slight forward angle. Your ATV jack brings the engine up straight. If you tilt the engine slightly forward (fan housing frontward) you will restore the clearance of the generator pulley to the engine compartment lip. Just place a short 2x4" board cross-wise at the rear part of the engine case while it's on the jack. Use the muffler as leverage to tilt the engine up slightly so you can slip the board underneath. Maybe even a 1" thick board will be sufficient.
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61SNRF
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even if the car has been only slightly bumped in the rear, say from a parking lot incident, it can make removal/installation of the engine a tighter squeeze.

Even without being hit most times to get the pulley past the apron you have to angle the engine back by pulling up on the exhaust side and let the flywheel side drop lower, your limit here being the exhaust hitting the apron.

You kind of start it at the steepest angle you can until the pulley is over the apron then as you jack it up roll the engine level until it's parallel with the trans, all the while watching that the clutch doesn't fowl on the trans bell housing.

Taking the belt and pulley off might give you that little bit more clearance needed. If you have a Vac Advance distributor, remove the hose and turn it full retard so the canister is as close to the engine as possible, or just remove the dist altogether.

Also be aware anytime you R&I the engine it's very easy to put rips and tears in the engine compartment seal right in the center. If it's new or in good shape, you might consider temporarily covering the exposed Gen pulley, nut or shaft and the seal itself with painter's tape to protect from damage.
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

I did notice the seal had a tear in I prior to removal. I plan on doing a full engine compartment and engine beautification after bug jam next month

Should the front be off the ground too? I only have the rear on stands.
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