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TheAmazingDave Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2013 Posts: 788 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 2:17 pm Post subject: Water heater pilot won't stay lit. |
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So I generally don't do this, but I haven't had a shower in 4 days and desperation is setting in.
We have a 4-year-old water heater. Over the last week, it decided it won't stay lit.
At first, I could relight the pilot, and it would kick on, and then shut off the burner and pilot before the set temp. We could re-light the pilot, and the cycle would continue.
Until it stopped completely.
Now, the pilot will light while holding the starter valve depressed, but as soon as I release it, the pilot goes back out.
1. The thermocouple is putting out 22 millivolts, I believe that is in-spec.
2. The thermocouple is square in the pilot flame, and the flame is strong.
3. It seemed to be a failed thermostat/gas control valve so we replaced it with a brand new unit not even an hour ago.
4. The little glass vial thingamabob is intact. I think this controls air flow?
Same thing, pilot will light but won't stay lit.
Does anyone have any advice/experience with this? _________________ Just call me Big D. (formerly xBigDx408x)
TheAmazingDave.net
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Cali_Army_Guy Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2015 Posts: 2094 Location: Stockton, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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Have you tried cleaning the thermocoupler? If it's dirty it won't register that there's heat being applied very well. You can clean it with some fine grit sandpaper.
And you're positive the coupler is fully in the pilot light flame?
How the vent or air flow around the flame? Fire needs oxygen to burn. If it can't get any it will snuff itself out. Make sure everything is clean and clear of dirt/dust/debris. |
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TheAmazingDave Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2013 Posts: 788 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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I haven't cleaned it (the thermocouple), but I've tested it with a voltmeter and it puts out 22mV after less than a minute. From what I understand, this meets spec. I did, however, move the tip closer to the flame after testing it for shits and giggles. No dice. Pilot flame is nice and blue.
The water heater is elevated per Cali code, and the intakes are unobstructed. There is virtually no debris/dust inside the combustion chamber.
It's really quite bizzare. The new control valve was over $100, which we bought since the thermocouple checked out ok (so it seems), so I'm reluctant to throw any more money at it for a new thermocouple when that doesn't seem to be the issue.
I don't know what else to try though.
The overtemp air control mechanism with the glass vial is intact as well. I can't get the burner out to inspect the mechanism closely, but it seems to be okay. _________________ Just call me Big D. (formerly xBigDx408x)
TheAmazingDave.net
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Cali_Army_Guy Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2015 Posts: 2094 Location: Stockton, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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I would clean it up with sand paper just to rule that out. |
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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Shower right before 3PM, the cold water should feel good at that time. _________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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TheAmazingDave Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2013 Posts: 788 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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Well I said F it and threw more money at a thermocouple.
The "universal" replacement puts out less power than the original.
But it works....
I must have trashed the insulator around the connection on the original by making it too tight when I installed the new valve. I did some reading that said it should be finger tight + 1/4 turn. I definitely made it much tighter than that...
Installed the new thermocouple per the advice I found on the web, and the damn thing finally lit.
Now to see if it goes out again when the burner shuts off...
Nothing to see here, please move along...
edit: Oh yeah, bitch!
_________________ Just call me Big D. (formerly xBigDx408x)
TheAmazingDave.net
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minger Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2003 Posts: 238 Location: Cleveland Ohio
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Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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Google FVIR sensor and your model. Some are one and done. Others are resetable. Sometimes folks replace a whole heater for want of a $2 part that Rheem won't sell you.
Sorry just reread your #4. That is your fvir. Don't knick it! |
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TheAmazingDave Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2013 Posts: 788 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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minger wrote: |
Sorry just reread your #4. That is your fvir. Don't knick it! |
Roger; besides giving it a good look-over, I didn't dare touch it.
It reminds me of my days at ADT doing fire alarm inspections. Modern sprinklers use the same glass vial trick. Hard to imagine all the pressure against those suckers, and they don't pop 'til the fire heats them up. _________________ Just call me Big D. (formerly xBigDx408x)
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