Should I buy this bus?!? '74 Campmobile

[SamboSamba22]

Happy Father’s Day to all the groovy dudes out there, and us blessed guys who have had such awesome patience-testing, rule giving, role models!

A couple questions I have are in regards to 2 things.
1) Would fuel lines too close to the engine get hot and pressurize the fuel, causing the fuel to build up pressure and surge back into my fuel pump, causing what I am facing, which is a terrible leak out of the back where the diaphragm is???
2)I have bled and bled my brakes, all 4 wheels have wonderful fluid. Readjusted the star adjusters in the rear drums twice. When driving around I have solid brake pressure, then it drops. Is my one-way vacuum valve malfunctioning?? Does it really matter to bled FR, FL, RR, RL other than the traditional rear first procedure??
Again, all rubber brake lines have been replaced. Wheel cylinders are new. No leaks of fluid in or around the bus. i know of the pressure regulator on the brakes, but I don't need to mess with that correct??
Thanks in advance gents,
Sam

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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Bala]

Great picture!

Did you replace your master cylinder?
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1976 Westy

1966 Beetle

[SamboSamba22]

Master Cylinder is still original from what I know, also haven’t changed the brake booster. I was hoping both of these items would be solid and functioning.
I’m hoping that maybe my brake fluid is bad, bottle was capped off tight, but it is almost a year old. I was going to also try bleeding the front first, then the rear as mentioned in the manual, before hunting down a new or rebuilt master cylinder.
Sam
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Bala]

I would bet it's the master cylinder. I've had similar experiences when the internal seals are bad. Don't think it would be the fluid, that would just cause soft brakes (if there was moisture in it).
_________________
1976 Westy

1966 Beetle

[Tcash]

Quite often, what happens is when you bleed your brakes the master cylinder pistons are pushed much further in their bores than they normally are. This portion of the bore has not had the piston cup wiping it as in service.
This results in the piston cups being damaged from the crap on the piston bores and what happens is fluid passes past the piston cup or cups internally.
If you apply light pressure and the brake pedal fades and you are not loosing brake fluid the mater cylinder is internally bypassing.
Good luck
Tcash

[SamboSamba22]

I’m just not quite ready to pinpoint the master cylinder. Before doing anything to the brakes, I had solid pedal pressure. The only reason I embarked on replacing all brake components (yes, completely agree its safest to do so) was because a rear wheel cylinder began to leak, prior to this taking place, I had solid brakes.
I’m thinking maybe I’m bleeding the brakes poorly (two-man pump and hold method) and using brake fluid that has obtained moisture. I’d rather bleed the brake with fresh fluid at $8 a bottle before searching out and ordering a quality M.C.
I’ll try again with the Bentley procedure of beginning with the front and working towards the rear.
May I also add that I can pump the brake and it immediately firms up.

On another note, I received my replacement Omega fuel pump. The two fittings on the top for inlet and pumping fuel to the carbs, does anyone know exactly which of the two go to what? I initially had the smaller fitting going to the carbs (what I believe to be correct) I just don’t want to fault a new pump by error.

Here’s the link to the pump I am using:
http://www.busdepot.com/021127025a

The actual pump looks a little different, here’s what it looks like, with two fittings, one big and one small. Small is to the carbs correct?

_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Tcash]

Air in the system does not change pedal feel, if it is soft it is soft.
I hear you though, rule out everything else first. I cannot think of how to test the master cylinder for bypassing.
If it comes to mind I will post it.

Put your mouth over one of the fittings and operate the pump.
suction = fuel tank
pressure = carbs

GD
Tcash

[Bala]

If you have an intermittent failure like that it is not fluid related. You've pretty much already narrowed it down to the MC. Anything else leaking and you would see fluid somewhere and it would be a permanent/consistent issue. Just be careful driving it. I had a bad MC on a non-VW I owned and it caused me to have a minor fender bender.
_________________
1976 Westy

1966 Beetle

[SamboSamba22]

As of right now, the new fuel pump is holding up well, hopefully the previous replacement was just a goofy mishap with the diaphragm.
As for the braking situation, I haven’t had a chance to drive it much. I am currently waiting on my NOS 953 dual vacuum canister from a gentleman in Ohio. It BETTER be shiny for the cost haha
Sam

Also in the works (2) 72, 75 Westfalia near complete rollers in the mix of potentially buying if numbers are right. Pending as we speak.
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SamboSamba22]

So I’ve been doing some reading, along with messing with the steering, and it seems that after I have installed my new (driver side) tie rod and new ends on both sides, the steering is still very loose. I am able to turn the steering wheel, a ways, before the actual operation of turning the tires takes place. Any thoughts on this issue?
I am worried it is a steering box woe, and indeed something a bit more expensive as like needing a replacement. What are the issues with a shotty drag link??
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Bala]

Drag link can definitely cause problems, and they are super easy to replace. First I would crawl under there while someone gently turns the steering wheel back and forth in the area of play. Look for what's moving and what's not. Where they meet is your problem. I tend to suspect it is the steering box though.
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1976 Westy

1966 Beetle

[wcfvw69]

I'd do what Bala suggested. Crawl under there and have someone rock the wheel back and forth slowly while you look for movement in the drag link, all tie rods (even the new ones), the center link pin and steering gear.

There is a worm gear adjustment nut on the steering gear. Adjusting the gear is covered in the Bentley as well. Often times, adjusting the steering gear correctly can make HUGE improvements in removing play.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[SamboSamba22]

Aside from the Jabber, this is the play I am experiencing.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=X3HIydzHrxc
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Tcash]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...highlight=

[SamboSamba22]

Thanks Tcash, I read through your writeup as well as Jon’s (hazetguy). I’ll be looking into doing this very soon. Playful steering is kinda sketch
I appreciate the detail thread on the “How to”, hoping this fixes my woes.

I’m debating to replace the drag link since I’ll have it removed while doing the center pin work, I need to inspect it!
Cheers
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SamboSamba22]

Here’s my current center pin, nice and nasty.

So today became the day! Received my first ever NOS part for the bus, woohoo!!

Now for the immediate sadness, after almost two hours of messing with the distributor and attempting to time the bus, I can of course get it to run but at absurd points of advance. If I attempt to bring the timing down anything less than 0*, it dies.
Similar situation as beforehand, took me almost a week every day messing with the distributor to finally get it set at the appropriate 10 ATDC.
I am almost there......shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiittttttttttttttt.
I'm going to double check the point gap tomorrow if I get a chance. Fingers crossed.

P.S.-The new canister operates exactly like the old one that was supposedly bad...on the dual vacuum canister, it indeed is suppose to be dual vacuum, correct? As in there should be suction on both ends???
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[wcfvw69]

How are you hooking up the DVDA vacuum hoses Sam? The one on the back of the vacuum can is the retard side. The one on the front of the vacuum can is the advance. Are you sure you're hooking the vacuum hoses up correctly to the can?

I use a hand vacuum pump to check vacuum cans. You pump the pump up after hooking a hose to the can. I then pump it up and stop to see if each side of the can holds vacuum.

The center pin is pretty easy and straight forward. Get a big C-clamp to remove the tension on the bolt.

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=3164

Here's Colin's thread. I used a socket and extension to pound the bushing up and out. I also installed them with the same set up. Pretty straight forward.

I used the Febi brand (made in Germany) center pin kit. It was nice except for the bottom cap. Be nice to your original when you remove it like I was. I had to reuse it.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[SamboSamba22]

Bill, here are some photos with better identification with what exactly I have going on with my dual Solex carb setup.

Also I have a few questions, about the image below, I do indeed have this setup correctly, no? The brake booster line is linked up with the other carb, and goes to the one-way valve on through the tin going to the brake booster.
I also have the cylinder head port capped off, aren’t these ports for the EGR valves??

This too, is the missing on my emission canisters (EGR valves on the carbs) causing a serious vacuum leak?
Again the timing isn’t cooperating with me, it wants to idle at absurd measures of advance, and also it peaks in RPM’s, going going going, then plummets and tries to die.

I did learn today that I installed my intake manifolds on the wrong sides, causing the some confusion looking at Amskeptic (Colin) diagrams on Itinerant-Aircooled website, as I used them for complete guidance with my vacuum lines because I didn’t even know where to begin.
Looking for some insight guys, thank you very much!
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[wcfvw69]

Sam,

I'm not too familiar with that setup. I thought you were running a single carb. PM busdaddy, Colin or Robbie. They are familiar with them.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[busdaddy]

From here it appears you have the lines correctly oriented, of course you've seen the illustrious Mayor Atwell's page on that: http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VacuumHosesCarb.html
The booster line sounds right as well, the outer nipples connect to a balance tube that crosses over the flywheel tin and Tee's off to the booster. Your CIS tube may be part of the idle issue though, the VW one was smooth steel and included a round swirl section where it Teed of to each manifold, I don't know how much that restrictive hose barb plays into this. The capped port on the breather box under the manifold was for the 411/412 engine PCV system that head came from, it's fine capped off as is as long as you have a bus breather box on the top of the breather tower. That partially machined area on the carb base was for a thermostatic valve that wasn't used on all systems, most are blanks, but to confirm stick your thumb on it when it's running and feel for vacuum.

Don't get too concerned about reaching 10*ATDC @ idle, even NOS parts are still old and may not do exactly what they are supposed to, your carbs and engine health also play a big part. I assume the replacement can was the correct number listed for your distributor?, carb numbers also matter since some have different bleed holes in the throttle plates and may not flow enough for a -10 degree idle.

As for the timing read this (disregard the type 1 parts)