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1679cc Mighty Mouse Spinoff
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Ace_F
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:21 am    Post subject: Re: 1679cc Mighty Mouse Spinoff Reply with quote

dbo@samba wrote:
So here is my project and we all know there are plenty of ways to make hp/torque, but this is the project for me right now. Basically, a spin off from another 1679cc build that was posted years ago, but the premise with this combo is to have a bit more top end and wider power band. The other idea is to use some of these parts to mate them with a new short block (84mm, 2044cc) and maximize the top end parts at a later date e.g. carbs, heads, exhaust

Anyone want to guess what my HP/TQ will be in the end?

1679cc 88mm slip/machine in
L5 40x35.5 heads dual springs
FK44
1.4 rockers
weber 40mm idf carbs
1-5/8 A1 exhaust
9.5cr
total seal rings
lightened fly wheel


Good day.. Been following this post.. Is this a no machining build? Coz i have a 1600 dual port that id like to beef up a little bit.. And given the limited choice of parts found here in the philippines, this is the type of build i will be needing.. Could you post aside from the parts, brand of manufacturers so i could do a some parts finding.. Thanks!
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dbo@samba
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

,,

Last edited by dbo@samba on Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:41 am; edited 3 times in total
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Again...dont think it is a wise move to run those pistons(~590grams) with a FK44. That engine is gonna rev as high as you want it. My 2276 with a FK44 will rev to 7400 no problem.

Also make sure your heads will handle the .560-.570 lift.

Third...I would run Jaycee Pushrod tubes as you will need the clearance.

Fourth.... I wouldn't worry with a svda. This engine won't like anything under 2800 rpm. Doubt very seriously you will make 6-7 inches of vacuum...

It's gonna haul no doubt, but I think your power range will be narrow.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would drop to a FK42-43 due to the engine size. It's still going to rev to the moon.

Find a set of Mahle forged 88s and run those with the Thick Wall AA barrels. Sell the unused stuff.
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mchn13
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dbo@samba wrote:
Yes no machine build!

Here is my complete list of parts\tools. All of the parts can all be found @ aircooled.net

A1 merge 1-5/8 merge header with O2 bung
A1 2-1/2 high flow exhaust dual pea shooter
Innovate wideband gauge
weber 40s  44s???
Mofoco 12lb lightened 6v flywheel
Pertronix III flamethrower III svda dist w/ rev limiter
anti-pulse valve for vacuum advance distributors SVDA's
1.4 rockers $135
swivel ball adjusters
bugpack 1.4 Push Rods $134

L5 Heads 40x35, custom heads

Mahle Piston/Cylinder kit 1679cc  88mm slip-in bottom machine in top
(forged, you guys talked me into it! good for 7500+rpm's)
CB Performance tranny mounts
cooling tins
engine stand ebay
scat pulley
flywheel torque tool
cheese head bolts .25each 20qty
clutch alignment tool
lower deflector tin
Flywheel O-Ring Seal
engle 44
push rod tubes
Bugpack cam gear
cam gear bolts
case bolts
broached pulley nut
engine gasket set
cam bearings
ring compressor tool
cam plug
engine bay fire wall seal
fly wheel seal
engine case sealant



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It actually ran ok with all that in there!?!?!
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Sexy bug man!
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont understand a no machine build.unless you have all new parts that need nothing. but Ive seen tomany nomachine builds done out of crap thats wore out and being done by a scamer/useless/exspert and charging for a good properly well done job to an unsuspecting buyer.... getting screwed. just my observations. yes you can rebuild a motor without going biger& better. just make sure thats what is wanted and it can be done satisfactory...witch is a very broad term. Wink
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dbo@samba
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
I dont understand a no machine build.unless you have all new parts that need nothing. but Ive seen tomany nomachine builds done out of crap thats wore out and being done by a scamer/useless/exspert and charging for a good properly well done job to an unsuspecting buyer.... getting screwed. just my observations. yes you can rebuild a motor without going biger& better. just make sure thats what is wanted and it can be done satisfactory...witch is a very broad term. Wink


Correct...that's why I do a lot of research and ask as many people as I can and most of all..do the work myself.
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mchn13
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope to get my 1679 dyno'd when I get it together. Probably have to do a chassis dyno'd around here tho. Between you, astro, and me we should have some solid info on three different same-size builds.
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dbo@samba
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mchn13 wrote:
I hope to get my 1679 dyno'd when I get it together. Probably have to do a chassis dyno'd around here tho. Between you, astro, and me we should have some solid info on three different same-size builds.


yes, I'm committed more than ever now...basically it's a challenge at this point. I had no idea sourcing forged pistons would be so difficult.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's a lot easier if you simply go to 90.5, 92, or 94mm.
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mchn13
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dbo@samba wrote:
mchn13 wrote:
I hope to get my 1679 dyno'd when I get it together. Probably have to do a chassis dyno'd around here tho. Between you, astro, and me we should have some solid info on three different same-size builds.


yes, I'm committed more than ever now...basically it's a challenge at this point. I had no idea sourcing forged pistons would be so difficult.


I just got a pm from a member about an nos berg set. If I don't get them you might be interested..he didn't have cyls but john@aircooled sells them. Reason being my engine would probably do fine with the aa's as I have a lower powerband. Let me know and I'll send you his info.
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Ace_F
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
it's a lot easier if you simply go to 90.5, 92, or 94mm.


Why is it easier to go with 90.5, 92 or 94 mm rather with the 88mm?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ace_F wrote:
[email protected] wrote:
it's a lot easier if you simply go to 90.5, 92, or 94mm.


Why is it easier to go with 90.5, 92 or 94 mm rather with the 88mm?


He wants forged Pistons for the weight, and they're hard to find in 88mm.
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Wreck
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend of mine builds formula vee engines , he built a 1640 with standard valves ,standard crank ,rods etc . 5/8 F Vee exhaust and a single 40DCN ,
I think it runs aftermarket rockers with a local aussie cam grind , single valve springs . It dynoed at just under 113 WHP with fan belt and pump fuel .
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cheers Derek
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

88mm forged pistons stopped being available a couple years ago, while you can still buy 90.5-94mm new now.
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Ace_F
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another newbie question... How about for the trans? Would you still be able to use a stock tranny for this?
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ace_F wrote:
Another newbie question... How about for the trans? Would you still be able to use a stock tranny for this?


I'm going to. It didn't break the original never-touched '64 4.37 trans with the old combo that made more low end torque, but I wasn't doing redline clutch drops either. I did do quite a few 2.10 60' launches on 165's, not hard enough that it wanted to break loose. Should be fine with a bigger cam that moves the torque band up.
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mchn13
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

theastronaut wrote:
Ace_F wrote:
Another newbie question... How about for the trans? Would you still be able to use a stock tranny for this?


I'm going to. It didn't break the original never-touched '64 4.37 trans with the old combo that made more low end torque, but I wasn't doing redline clutch drops either. I did do quite a few 2.10 60' launches on 165's, not hard enough that it wanted to break loose. Should be fine with a bigger cam that moves the torque band up.


I am as well but im building this engine for midrange and not goin to be drag racing. If youre trying to bust them they will. Quick like.
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Matthew
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DBO, is this build still a go? I see some of your original posts have been deleted.

I too have been collecting parts for and planning a 1700 (1679) build for a while. I have been back and forth on heads and cam. I have been watching the astronaut's progress closely as well. This is my current plan; I have everything but the heads.

Mexican AS41 case .020 line bore
Welded 69mm c/w crank .20/.20
Stock weight flywheel balanced to crank
Stock rods
Web 163 cam
AA t/w 88 P&C set
Tims ported super stock heads
Dual 40 dells
1 1/2" scat merged header
Will shoot for .040 - .050 deck and around 9.0:1 CR
Have 1.25 and 1.3 rockers that can be added if needed.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you will have a hard time getting close to .040 deck with those pistons. You may need to machine the barrels a bit to dial it in.
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