Brake Bleeding Issues!?

[CLEMENTINE71]

I'm having a hell of a time getting my brakes fully bleed. Since my last post, my caliper rebuild wen't well - which lead to some other work as well; new mc, a few new brake lines, new brake drums and shoes. And now the bleeding is giving me the most trouble.

I have about 1/2 pedal, which can be pumped 3-4 times to full. Pedal holds pressure and feels firm. I've been bleeding using a suction bleeder (on my 5th round). I bleed the master installed using the 2 person method.

rear brakes have been adjusted to just scraping. pedal and pushrod are set to spec.

do i just keep bleeding and bleeding? should i toss the suction bleeder and try another method? suggestions
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Squeeze the Lemon Out

71 Square
73 Super-Beetle-sold

[Tram]

Your rear brakes are out of adjustment. Make sure all 4 shoes are contacting the drum.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[Air-Cooled Head]

[Clatter]

Welcome to the club!

Some of us have never fully bled the brakes on our type 3s..

I hear a pressure bleeder works; only one I haven't tried yet.

So far 'bench bleeding' , two-man, suction, speed bleeders. and the 'submerged hose' method have all produced the same results as yours.

I think the pedal is just designed to go halfway down before it does anything.
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Tram]

OP, try this test: Pull your E brake all the way on and tell me if that makes a difference in the pedal.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[grandpa pete]

Find Bobnotch's beer and bleed ; gravity method . It saved me .
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63 two fold rag
66 sedan delivery Type 6

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569619&highlight=sedan+delivery

[Bobnotch]

[Nate M.]

Definitely ensure the rear brakes are adjusted (even temporarily tight) as Tram suggested. Gotta do that before ANY bleeding or you're wasting your time.

I use a power bleeder since I'm a one-man shop and can't afford to wait and drink beer like Bob. Even if you don't have a power bleeder I always recommend getting everything set-up and crack each line on the MC one at a time and let it gravity bleed a couple ounces of fluid out and re-tighten. The MC is really good a trapping air inside it and this simple trick usually purges it out and allows for a really good bleed of the system after.

The power bleeder works well, but it's a 50/50 shot whether or not it will seal to the MC reservoir. I don't know what it is about that little reservoir cap adapter, but my bleeder has a hard time sealing properly to the typical VW reservoir. My other power bleeder has the larger Bus & Porsche adapter on it and it never fails to seal well. . .

Another really good and cheap aid is the Lisle one-man-bleeder that's a tube that slips over the bleeder the goes into a 1 pint reservoir. Great product that works and cost only about $8-10 at FLAPS. I actually use this in conjunction with the power bleeder so I don't make a mess on the clients car or my floor.

I also like the speed bleeder bleed screws (try and say that fast). I've got these on the Squarsche and bleeding is a snap. Just crack one bleed screw, pump a few times and re-tighten. Really a great product!!
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Regards,

Nate M.

Squarsche build
Heavy Metal Affliction feature

For heaven's sake, put a type4 and a Porsche 5-speed in there. . . It's the right thing to do!!

[CLEMENTINE71]

[raygreenwood]