'56 oval gas tank removal

[jediboss]

Aloha Folks- I have a 56' that has been sitting a way, it wants to start up but I can tell it is starving for fuel. I took off the gas cap and saw some of the coating peeling off and other debris I am sure is blocking the copper screen leading to the fuel line.

It was suggested to me that I take out the gas tank, then put on the gas cap, put in some link chain along with acetone and shake it around to get off as much of the loose stuff as possible and do this a couple of times to get it really clean before re-installing it. That make sense.

My questions are in regard to the procedure to taking off the gas tank as my model does not have a fuel gauge but rather the lever on the inside to turn if you are running low on fuel. So I hope you can help direct me what is the best and most efficient way to remove my gas tank as well as parts I should get, ie: new copper screen for gas tank, paper gasket that goes between body and tank? I hope my fuel line is good and I think the petcock should be good but is there a way to clean it out too? Also any specific torque specs for the bolts holding in the tank? And also, there is old fuel in the tank.

Sorry for all the questions. Thank you in advance for your help. Mahalo!

[jediboss]

Aloha Again Folks-

Again, looking forward to hearing from you about the best way to get my gas tank out safely, so that I can clean it.

Also, I read the post from Glenn Ring about restoring ones gas tank. If I were thinking about having the gas tank power coated, would I do the POR 15 sealer after the powder coating?

And for the color of a 56' gas tank, mine looks like a flat-dull black and it is the original tank never damaged or redone. I have read a lot of folks saying it should be a "blue-ish-grey," was that for a 56 as well?

Thanks again. Mahalo!

[RareAir]

[RareAir]

[RareAir]

[jediboss]

Aloha RareAir! Thank you so much!

In regard to the fuel lines, I am assuming that I can get to the front portion pretty easy once I have the tank out. When I install the new fuel line would you just cut a small portion of hosing and attach it to the metal fuel line entering the tunnel and on that small piece of hose install the disposable filter then more of the new hosing going to the gas tank? What kind of clamps would you use? Also, when you speak of a disposable filter would you use the one that I have in the engine compartment area (most VW's have them) or something beefier?

For the back area fuel line-tunnel area, is it easily accessible or do I need to lift the car off the ground?

Also, because there is rust in my tank, is the Berryman - Acetone good enough to get it all out including any sludge? I heard someone used muriatic acid to do the inside but it is powerful and if you use that stuff you than have to coat the inside of the gas tank. I guess what I am hoping is that your method with the Berryman - Acetone can do the job such that I would not need to use the POR 15 tank restorer.

Lastly, after you did the Berryman-cleaning, did you wash out the tank with water to get all the sediment out? And if so, did you coat the inside of the gas tank with anything before you put back in fresh gas? I was told it is not a bad idea to put in a little of the Marvel Mystery Oil into the gas tank as it helps to protect the fuel as well as tank.

Again, thank you so much. Look forward to your follow-ups. Mahalo!

[jediboss]

Aloha Again RareAir-
Forgot to ask you something about the parts list you gave me: When you mentioned 2 fiber washers, is this the same as the fiber gasket that goes between the gas tank and chassis? I also saw from Wolfs Burg West that there is a "sealing ring" that seals the copper filter screen to the tank. Wonder if that would be good to get too? Thanks again. Mahalo!

[RareAir]

[RareAir]

[RareAir]

[jediboss]

Aloha again RareAir- This fiber seal is the one that goes with the copper screen, correct? So in purchasing 2 of them, does it make for a better seal? I ask because I was looking at a diagram and I saw the one seal but you recommend 2. Mahalo!

The fiber sealing ring is Part #111209139 .90/ea

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[jediboss]

Aloha RareAir- Yes, I see some rust in my tank-some of the coating has come off, it is actually in pretty good condition for sitting 7+ years, I got lucky there. So, I wonder if Acetone first might help to take off some of the rust? Then use your Berryman solution? I have often wondered if that Jasco solution helps at all but maybe just the link chain and rocks or nuts&bolts with the Berryman carb cleaner might do the trick? Maybe my wife with small wrist and hands can use some fine steel wool and knock off the rust she can get at?

At least I could get up and running. By the way, in order to change out the copper screen, one has to take out the fuel-reserve petcock valve. Is there any thing special in removing it and re-installing it? Thanks again for all your help. Mahalo!

The Berryman I am recommending is a carburetor cleaner, NOT Acetone.

Pour the Berry into the tank and let it sit for a few hours/days. It will dissolve any old fuel/sludge in the tank. After I drain out the Berryman, I do not treat the inside of the tank with anything. But my tanks aren't in bad condition. So do what you think is necessary. I do not rinse out the tank with water.

Marvel Mystery Oil will not leave a permanent coating inside the tank. Once you fill the tank with fuel, the Marvel Oil is gone.[/quote]

[RareAir]

[RareAir]

[Eric&Barb]

[jediboss]

Aloha Eric & RareAir- Thank you again for your info. I have a friend that thinks I should get my gas tank "boiled" then "phosphated," sealed and then paint it. Maybe in the future I will do that but I hope with the Berryman or Acetone and chain link pieces that I can get a lot of the rust and sediment out, then put in the new copper screen, fiber washer.

Question: I did purchase the rebuild kit from Wolfsberg for the fuel valve-petcock. Is this an easy thing to do? And should I soak my old fuel valve in the Berryman solution to clean it out then install the new parts?

And in regard to my fuel pump, the kind folks at Wolfsberg said once the old tank is back in place, undo the metal tubing at the carb that came from the fuel pump, pump the gas pedal and if fuel comes through than all is good. My car has been sitting for a while. If I need to service the fuel pump, they said it is normally just the "diaphragm" that needs to be replaced. Is this a pretty straight forward repair?

Thank you again for all your help. Mahalo!

[Eric&Barb]

[jediboss]

Aloha Eric & Rare Air:

Couple of questions: I have the Berryman 5gal on order and it should come tomorrow afternoon. I will put on the parking brake, jack up the front and put jack stands to stable as you have specified, then take off the passenger front tire. For the Fuel tap, should it be the "3" position which I think is in between "1" and "2," so it is off? I have drained most of the old fuel but some is still in there. Then take out the cotter pin to the fuel tap, remove the hose connection and loosen the 4 bolts on top, this should allow me to take the tank out now, correct?

After this, should I take out the fuel tap-valve/copper fuel screen and let any old fuel drain out, then tape up the opening with the duck tape? So at this point I would be ready to fill up the tank with about 1gal of the Berryman cleaner with some chain link pieces in it and shake it around, then let it set and repeat. Also do you keep the gas cap on or tape it up too?

It sounds like one can re-use the Berryman cleaner after it is dumped out, is there any type of strainer you would recommend and after it has been strained can I put it right back in the tank for a second run with the chain link pieces? When I think I have gotten most of the debris-rust-old coating out of the tank, should I pour in some Acetone, swirling it around as a final clean-rinse? Should you let the tank dry before putting in fresh gas? And what octane is good for our old cars (87-89-92)?

Eric I read the thread about the Fuel Tap and have the rebuild kit from WW. I saw your comments there, is it Ok to apply the graphite grease all over the metal and rubber parts; meaning fuel mixing with the grease will not hurt or clog the valve? If I do not rebuild the fuel tap, could I soak it whole in the Berryman cleaner and re-install?

I will add in the extra disposable fuel filter after the fuel tap-valve in the direction going towards the back of the vehicle as Rare Air spoke about for some insurance that any debris I did not get out, will catch in the filter.

When I reassemble I will just reverse what I did and put the lever back in the "1" position. Before I start it, should I put a little gas in the carburetor?

I am sure I have left something out but was trying to go over the list just before I start. Thanks again for all your help. Mahalo!

[Eric&Barb]

That should work. You just are coating parts with grease/graphite mixture, not trying to pack all the passages throughout the fuel tap. Fuel should dissolve a little grease, and at worse blow a little air through before installing...

Filling the carb with fuel is a lot easier on the starter/battery, and takes less time to get fuel flowing at start up.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[RareAir]