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Hood Fresh 1962 Euro Rag
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thekera
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The front firewall looked to be solid before I removed the body. Of course after removing the body, the lower corners where the firewall meets the heater channel and also the body to pan gasket area had large holes. I didn't want to replace the whole firewall just for these little sections. I was happy to find Klassic Fab sold these lower firewall sections.

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I started work on this area by removing the top of the inner section, as it was a little to big and would have cut into the portion of the firewall that has the high beam switch location holes.

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From here it was just the usual, locate, cut, weld, and grind. I will say these panels fit well. The lines of the outer panel needed a little work to match the OG firewall lines. I also used Zero Rust on the inside of these panels.

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Mikko N.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Where did you get those backing panels for the rear bodymounts shown on the first page? On the same post where you have all the panels laying on the floor.

BR
-Mikko-
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thekera
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikko N. Those panels were made by Mika Virtanen from Restoration Panels about 8 months ago. He had made them for me during his slow season I believe. They are very nice. The only other makers of this section are dansk and or klokerholm, no thanks. Mika, has helped me a lot with this project and contributed some awesome hand made panels. Thanks Mika.

Keep checking in on this thread Ill have a section on me installing, The Mika inner rear wheel well. You can check out how they fit and some more pictures of them.
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Mikko N.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for your answer!

Yes I have used Mika's panels too but only those that are shown on his website. I didn't have a clue that he could make panels off his usual line of panels from order! Surprised

So are the crossmember parts too from Mika? As he doesn't make this later model -62 according to his website. Only the outer panel which has the screw in it and not the inner side. I have the outers for both sides. I have a -61 and it's sad that there is quite small line of GOOD panels available.

Waiting for the pictures of the inner rear wheel well! That is an area that I should still get some good material and Mika could be the answer! Smile

BR
-Mikko-
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thekera
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikko, I can't speak for Mika, you would have to ask him. I do know his main focus is early beetle panels. He did make these panels for me when I believe he was in a slow season. I will say he has been great to work with and his workmanship is top notch. Really cool thing is his panels are hand made.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As this project has progressed, I came to the realization that I really enjoy auto metal work. I do work with metal for a living, but aluminum and it's mostly structure, fabrication, locating, drill and fill stuff, Nothing with welding.

I started to look on my local craigslist for metal working tools. Especially a Miller spot welder. After some searching one popped up. Funny thing, it was about 10 mins from where I got the 1962. When I got there the guy selling it seemed a little sketchy as he didn't know much about the spot welder. He began to tell me how he acquired it and I began feeling better about the situation.

From what he told me his long time friend had just passed from cancer. He said his friend liked working on cars and buying a bunch of tools he never really used. I asked, "What kind of cars?" word for word, "VW buggies".

Long story short. From that one craigslist ad I was able to buy some cool tools, from a nice guy, who was so happy to know they were gonna go to someone who would use them on Volkswagens. Made my day.

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thekera
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing I noticed about the 1962, is all the way around the lower two weld nuts were in bad shape or missing. This seems to be very common as these Bugs age.

Now, I wanna say 1960 might have been the last year for the early style weld nut. I might be wrong. I do know my 1961 has the later style weld nuts. A thing about the later style weld nut is I haven't seemed to be able to find a decent reproduction. The originals from the factory are pressed into the sheet metal and almost have a floating nut quality. I have been trying to salvage as many of these from rough sheet metal at swap meets as possible.

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Here is how I go about repairing these weld nuts, as I like it clean and original looking as possible.

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thekera
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From the front firewall to A pillar ties the front portion of the body together. The original front wheel well panel was extremely brittle in the lower portion where its spot welded to the heater channel. It also was missing its lower weld nut.

This area sees a lot of corrosion from water being kicked up from the front tires. Another crazy theory of mine is water will drip in from the front hood to cowl seal and make its way down the A pillar where it is trapped and has nowhere to go.

In my search for quality metal the front wheel well area had very little to pick from. Mika from Restoration panels makes an early version, but I didn't really see why it would not work for my later 1962. The only big difference is it comes equipped with the early style weld nut.

I placed an order with Mika and received my panels surprisingly fast considering they came from Finland and I live in the NW of the US. The quality is impressive as these panels are a solid piece of cold rolled steel with the proper aft lower corner. They are one 1 mm thick which makes grinding and blending the weld easier as you have a little extra material to work with. Mika, nice work. Restoration Panels is worth checking out.

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I also used Zero Rust on this portion as it is prone to corrosion.

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I will also be installing some of Mika's other panels later in the thread.
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63Ragtop NZ
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

again, nice work, nice panels.

spot welders are worth their weight in gold, which is quite alot!
not just the factory look, they save so much time.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

63Ragtop NZ , Thanks again for the compliments. You couldnt be more right about the spot welder. They produce a factory look at a fraction of the time. I did buy a couple sets of different shape and size tongs which arent cheap but handy. Keep watching the progress as this project has been alot of fun.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 2:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided to take a break from the lower rocker area that I've been working on and try out the new spot welder. I figured something easy to start with would be a couple of the seal channel gasket strips.

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I bought these from Wolfsburg West. I believe they are made by Auto Craft Eng. It takes 6 strips to replace all the areas on a Beetle that these channels came from the factory with. I wanted to try and get a few done to see how easy or hard they are to manipulate. They have to bend to follow the contours of the vehicle. I started with the cowl and front apron.

First I removed the old seal channel. There was a lot of rust under there. I wire wheeled and hit the area with a spot blaster. After that I laid down some weld through primer. This area was a little awkward to hold the spot welder as it weighs about twenty pounds. I started by spot welding one spot on the far passenger side then clamping then another spot weld. I repeated this the whole way across. I will say the heat from the spot welder made it easier to bend the seal to the contour of the body.

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Now for the front apron. The front apron that I decided to go with for this project took a little research, kind of like the rear apron, there is not a lot of makers for this specific year. There is the Dansk and Klokerholm panels but I wanted to avoid these. I found that if I wanted a quality panel, Auto Craft Eng. of the UK makes an apron for early sixties Beetles. The quality of this panel seems very nice. It does need a little cleaning up but not bad. Later in the thread, Ill have more detail when I begin the front area body work.

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The front apron seal channel went the same as the cowl area. I will say the front apron is a little more tricky as the radius is more intense. All in all these seal channels went on a lot easier than I anticipated. I also made sure to lay down weld thru primer on the apron before putting the seal on.

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thekera
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After finishing up the FWD lower panels that correspond with the rocker area, I decided to move to the far AFT panels. This area was the worse on the 1962. Everything from the B pillar, rear crossmember, inner B pillar, luggage area, and rear wheel well needed replacing.

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I found this diagram here on the samba that shows this rear lower corner of the body. The Beetle seems to tie the whole rear of the vehicle together here.

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I figured I would start in the far AFT and work FWD. I spent some time debating how I would keep proper factory locations, as I dissected this rear corner. I ended up making another jig that worked off the rear body mount holes as points of index.

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63Ragtop NZ
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting how you did the seal channel things, something I've also been considering.
My 63 wasn't quite as rotten as your's and I'm sure you know what you're doing, But there maybe some useful pics/info in my thread.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2...9e046cd8df

I did the rear quarters and the rear body mounts separately as i was also worried about it not fitting back together!
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thekera
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

63Ragtop NZ , no problem on the seal channels. They are easy, especially sense you have a spot welder. I checked out your thread. Nice work man! I don't know what it is, but I really like following metal work threads. Keep up the good work and keep checking back.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 2:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, back to the lower AFT rocker area. After I completed my locating tool I spent some time debating where I should start. I decided the farthest AFT panel and work my way FWD would be best. The first panel on the list, would be the rear wheel well / body mount panel. When I first bought the car I inspected this area from the outside and visually all looked good. After separating the body and pan and being able to poke around from the rear I found this area was rotten from the backside and needed replacing.

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The search for a quality panel began. Like so many other panels offered the quality was low and or not correct looking to the eye. I felt that the actual mount and it's immediately adjacent panel were ok and reusable. The panel that really needed to be replaced was the one that those panels adjoin to. The only panel that I was finding in my search was what I believe to be Klockerholm.

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Now, maybe its just me, but I see a few things wrong with this panel right off the get go. Im a little OCD, Ill admit it lol. This was not gonna work for me. My first thought was to contact Mika at Restoration Panels. I had been working with Mika on this project and had already purchased some panels from him. I brought the question to Mika regarding this area. He didn't take long to reply that he was in a slow season and would start making these panels a reality. I was pretty excited when he sent me these progress photos.

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Thats what Im talking about, I can't say enough about Mika's workmanship and overall customer service. I received these panels very fast considering they were made from scratch. The quality top notch. Here is when I first got them in the mail.

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My first step in replacing this section was to cut and save the area I would be reusing. Which is the mount and adjacent panel.

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Here is the area Im saving on the bench. I was amazed at how heavy this section was. First was to get it cleaned up and sand blasted. I then took the time to knock off the protruding spot welds. There was quiet a bit of rust.

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After getting this area all prepped I sprayed the backside with weld thru primer. I began fitting it to Mika's Rear Wheel Well panel. The fit was right on without having to fuss to much with making the panels fit. Again, these panels are awesome. From here I busted out the spot welder and went at it. Here is what these panels look like after. Now to locate to the body.

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thekera
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now to locate this panel into the wheel well. I did not have to trim a lot from Mika's original panel. I just did before and after measurements from the fender weld nuts to fixed points, both on the OG panel and new panel. I think you can see where I wrote some measurements in the photos. I will say my jig made locating this section pretty easy.

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At the same time I started to notice that the 90 degree flange of the luggage tray where it meets the wheel well was toast. I did not feel I would be successful welding this area later on, so I decided to remove it.

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I would like to say Mika's wheel well panel went in painlessly. From here it was the usual weld and grind. I also threw in a photo of my weld seam backed with copper sheet as I always back my welds with this to avoid burn through.

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thekera
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 4:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So like I was saying in the last post, The 90 degree flange of the luggage tray was pretty rough and brittle with rust. I tried to cut as small of a section from this area as possible as I was gonna have to make this panel from scratch.

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Here is before I cut out the old. I first shaped the new panel until I was happy with it, then I laid the new panel in the area where it was to go and trimmed any bit that needed it.

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Im sorry I did not take more photos of me making the repair panel but I got very involved in shaping it and forgot about taking photos. I did use a combo of a small brake I have to make the panel, along with the english wheel and shrinker and stretcher. Here is the new, and the old section.

New on the LH/Old on the RH
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New panel with weld thru primer
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From Here I drilled all the appropriate spot weld locations along the flange. I began to weld. This area was a little tricky as the metal of the luggage area doesn't seem to be very thick. In the end the panel went in and you can barely tell it was replaced.

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You will notice in the last photos that the rear cross member is removed. That section will be in a later post. Keep checking in and feel free to leave comments, questions, suggestions etc? Thanks.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The PO had cut out, or the beam being as narrow as it was had wore the front fender buckets to almost nothing. The fenders other than this are good and I would like to use them. I believe they are original to the 62. Does someone have some buckets from parts fenders? Or maybe knows where I could get some re-pop buckets? Let me know? Thanks

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I thought I could use the buckets from the 66 but they were crushed pretty good in the accident.

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If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it? Im also always interested in some NOS fenders, if someone wants to let a set go? I know its a long shot but ya never know.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I first went to look at buying the 1962 the rear cross members rust and rot almost made me change my mind about buying it. Im not sure what it was but I had to have it. I wanted to save and preserve this Beetle and at the same time challenge my metal work.

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Again, like with the other panels for this project my options were limited. From what I found from research most reproduction panels were either for early or late model Beetles. Wolf makes a very nice and expensive early cross member. I debated if Wolf's cross member would work but for that kind of money I could not see the sense in buying something I did not know would work for sure. On the completely opposite end of the spectrum for quality I looked at Klokerholm and Dansk's rear cross members. There panel is geared for 1965 and later and would work but I could see it driving me crazy knowing it was not correct. I know call me crazy as it is a panel that is rarely seen.

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Mika of Restoration Panels makes cross member sections for Ovals and Splits. As I started to get discouraged I decided to email Mika with my dilemma. He replied, when he had some time he would give it a shot and make me some year correct sections, he could not promise they would be perfect as they would be a first.

At the same time I decided to keep an eye out, here on The Samba and my local CL. Maybe I would get lucky and find someone disassembling a parts car. I knew this was a long shot but you never know.

Mika sent me an email. I was pretty stoked to say the least when I seen he had attached these progress photos.

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Funny thing was after a couple days of Mika's email a local guy in my area that sells a lot of sheet metal reached out to me and said he had just removed a clean set of 1964 rear cross members. I told him I would take them off his hands and received them in a day! They were not perfect, but not bad for there age. I threw them on the bench and started circling what needed work. A little welding and grinding and I think they came out ok.

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A couple weeks later and I received Mika's rear cross member sections. Its pretty awesome to have a one of a kind panel like that. Im pretty sure it might be a first for that year/years specific cross member 1960-1964. Again great work Mika.

I started to remove the OG to the 1962 rear cross member. Or what was left of it. The rear cross member can be a very involved and time consuming panel to remove as it does tie the lower aft corner of the body together.

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I was lucky, I guess and only had to drill the spot welds in relation to the luggage tray. I did add an index point to my jig before I removed the OG panel. Now the hard part was deciding if I should try and locate in Mika's panel or use the panel I just finished on the bench? Like with most proto types or first of anything I had a hard time trying to locate Mika's panel and I think the reason was, that when Mika asked if I wanted the reinforcement panel spot welded on or left off I said to spot weld it on. This was the wrong decision and made it impossible to locate correctly. I decide to hold off on Mika's panel and do a future write up on locating and welding them in down the road. From here installing the cross member I worked on the bench went smooth and ended up being easier than I had planned.

OG panel after removal

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BartD
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 3:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice tread. Need those rear innerwings to. Like you say there are no correct ones availlible. Will send Mika an email Very Happy
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