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My Chenowth Build/Resto project...
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made some progress today until I ran out of shielding gas!

1st I needed to get my seat mounts bent identically.
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Then I figured out where the cross bar tie in would be so I could cut and notch the seat mount bars to get the height and angle I wanted.
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Clearance loss is very minimal at 1.25"
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The seat angle is where I need it and the seats mount height is identical and won't shift no matter how fat I get!
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Pleanty of clearance for the shifter. Also going to tie in vertically (ish) on both sides of the shift bar for more support in case of bottom outs.
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Nice and level!
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Still need to cut, drill, and weld in the plated the seats will mount to. Will probably relocate the shifter back 2 inches. I'm reaching just a bit too much with new seat location. After that I just need to fab in the battery mount and it'll be ready for reassembly.
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made some progress today. I started out with finishing the support bars and getting them welded in.

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Then it was bottom side up to finish the bottom welds and fit the mount plates.

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Turns out the seats will need a touch more tilt than they have when they mount flat to the plates so I will fab some small wedges to fit between the seat bottom and the mounting plates.

Hope this isn't a jinx! I had my mini upside down before I rolled it!
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These mounts are solid! Eventually the seats will be replaced with quality suspension seats, but they'll do for now.
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As you can see from the front, the clearance loss is minimal.
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Rear view of clearance.
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Next on the agenda is to fab the battery mount/base plate. Then I'll be able to put the floor back in and start working on the brake lines. I got my new front shocks in the mail today so I'm looking forward to getting the front axle back on it. I'm so tempted to tear into it and go 6" wider with longer trailing arms, but I think I'll run it stock for now and do something like that in late winter.
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Mopardik
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lookin' good!
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mopardik wrote:
Lookin' good!


Thanks! I'm happy with the way it turned out. Feels good to be back in the garage and fabricating!

My imagination is running wild with the possibilities. It will be a while before I can afford it, but I'm considering converting to long travel at some point in the future. I'll run stock for now, but when the money becomes available then it will be upgrade time.

Considering this front suspension upgrade.
http://www.sandparts.com/A-Arm-Conversion-Kit-Long...72771.html
The conversion will cost a few hundred more (shocks not included) than upgrading to a built beam front end.

Considering this for rear suspension:
http://www.appletreeauto.com/TRAILING-ARM-KIT-FOR-930-and-002-TA3x3930-002/


Oh the possibilities if money were limitless!
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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you do some really nice work. looking forward to seeing to rest of your build
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldcrow wrote:
you do some really nice work. looking forward to seeing to rest of your build


Hey, thanks man! I appreciate the compliment.

Here is the finish photo with the center tube gussets in place.
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As you can see under the rail, the galvanized floor pan has seen better days. Has anyone priced aluminum lately? I'm considering replacing the pan, but if it's too expensive I'll just paint it and be happy.

Thanks!
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yesterday's goal was to fab in the battery mount.

Perfect fit.
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Had 3/16" on hand. Would probably have been better to use 1/8", but it'll work. Just looks a little bulky, but no one will ever see it anyway.
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I got to use the $30 Amazon bending brake.
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking ahead to wiring. Worth the money?

http://www.amazon.com/EMPI-00-9466-0-WIRE-BUGGY-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00BBJSX1M/ref=cm_rdp_product#Ask
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sandjunky wrote:
Looking ahead to wiring. Worth the money?

http://www.amazon.com/EMPI-00-9466-0-WIRE-BUGGY-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00BBJSX1M/ref=cm_rdp_product#Ask


No feedback? on this wiring loom?
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cbeck
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I rolled my own Very Happy
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cbeck wrote:
I rolled my own Very Happy


Did you find a good deal on wire? I'm fine with wiring it myself, but to buy a few different gauges of wire can get pricey.
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Axitech
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've put three different VW's together and used rebelwire for all of them. Well worth the price!
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cbeck
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Used 14ga thhn stranded, on my work truck, thanks boss Very Happy
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cbeck
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Used 14ga thhn stranded, on my work truck, thanks boss Very Happy
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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got that Empi wiring kit a while ago but was less than impressed with it. I'm planning on making my own harness using those wires and a standard ATM mini fuse block to wire my rail.
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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GoMopar440 wrote:
I got that Empi wiring kit a while ago but was less than impressed with it. I'm planning on making my own harness using those wires and a standard ATM mini fuse block to wire my rail.


I definitely do not like the fuse block and the reviews mentioned the terminals suck too. I'll keep looking. I may run down to the military surplus and see if they have some wire spools laying around and just make my own. Thanks!
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocks?

A sand rail's shocks have to be the most neglected part. Mine are toast on all corners (even the steering dampener). I've already bought the dampener and the front shocks. The PO was running a dual shock setup on the rear, but I'm not too excited about spending the money on 4 shocks if two will do the trick. I figure I can buy two now and add two later if necessary. I'll probably buy longer than needed so I don't have to replace them when I add 3x3 trailing arms. Thoughts?
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sandjunky wrote:
Shocks?

I'll probably buy longer than needed so I don't have to replace them when I add 3x3 trailing arms. Thoughts?


As long as the longer shocks work on the existing mounts, that's OK. But it's highly unlikely. Not only do the shocks have to be within their working travel at ride height (the car sitting still), but also at full compression - bottomed out, and also when at full extension - topped out. It's very unlikely that shocks for 3x3s will fit on the existing mounts unless the mounts for the 3x3s are placed the same relative to the pivot points for the arms as on the shorter arms. And that too is highly unlikely.
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dustymojave wrote:
Sandjunky wrote:
Shocks?

I'll probably buy longer than needed so I don't have to replace them when I add 3x3 trailing arms. Thoughts?


As long as the longer shocks work on the existing mounts, that's OK. But it's highly unlikely. Not only do the shocks have to be within their working travel at ride height (the car sitting still), but also at full compression - bottomed out, and also when at full extension - topped out. It's very unlikely that shocks for 3x3s will fit on the existing mounts unless the mounts for the 3x3s are placed the same relative to the pivot points for the arms as on the shorter arms. And that too is highly unlikely.


Good point. I'm fine with re-positioning the mounts to make the longer shocks work. I'm not happy with the current mounts anyway. I'd rather have a tube mount with a threaded boss than the plate the PO welded in. Thanks for the advice.
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Sandjunky
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn it! I need to get out of project mode and get into driving mode, but I keep thinking of things I want to do. I want to build a baja style light rack for the top. It can wait for sure, but its all I can think about!


I think I just love having a project again. I don't get a lot of satisfaction in my job since everything has to be done within the guidelines leaving no room for creativity. But damn! I need to get this thing out in the dirt too!
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