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Abscate
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22670
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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 Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:23 am Post subject: |
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We live and learn. Since entropy seldom reverses there is no going back. If you see no wear ( shiny or dull spots are ok as long as the metal is smooth ) just put them back together, burn some incense, and you should be good.
If you put a hole in a boot, it's now junk. Replace it. You cannot get dirt in these joints. No tape, plastic bags, or other botched strategies on these.
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:16 am Post subject: |
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Throw the boots in some hot water for a bit. Then use a little soapy water to slide them on the shaft.
Make sure you assemble the joints correctly. If you only have one line on the joints, it faces out away from the middle of the axle. Toward the trans and wheel.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7635241#7635241
Good luck
Tcash |
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Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5134
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:13 am Post subject: |
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Every time I have replaced CV boots, the boot will only slide onto the axle easily if the axle has been thoroughly cleaned of dirt, rust, grime, flaking paint, etc.
A thin smear of the CV joint grease around the axle from the circlip end to the humps where the smallest end of the boot rests, will make it very easy for it to get there. |
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:39 am Post subject: |
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That reminds me. You can put box tape on the splines, so they do not tear the boot and it gives the boot a smooth surface to slide on.
Tcash |
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Lucho
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Joined: August 25, 2015
Posts: 28
Location: Fort walton beach
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 10:24 am Post subject: |
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Awesome, thanks guys. Im gona try all of that today and hopefully install them tomorrow morning. I actually took the axles to the wire wheel and they cane out awesome so i do t think thats my problem, but hot water plus some lube plus box tape plus that diagram should make it happen.
Thanks again. |
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Abscate
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22670
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 10:58 am Post subject: |
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Original German CVs are incredibly tough. Back in my youth, on my 1971, I had horrible noises coming out of my CVs until I got them off the car in the middle of a Buffalo winter. I cleaned and repacked them and drove them until the car rusted from around them for 10 more years.
Miss you Red Bus 1970 Westie and 1971
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Lucho
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Joined: August 25, 2015
Posts: 28
Location: Fort walton beach
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Abscate wrote: |
Original German CVs are incredibly tough. Back in my youth, on my 1971, I had horrible noises coming out of my CVs until I got them off the car in the middle of a Buffalo winter. I cleaned and repacked them and drove them until the car rusted from around them for 10 more years.
Miss you Red Bus 1970 Westie and 1971 |
All the cv joints still look solid. The only wear I saw was inside 1 of them where the ball bearings go. It has some wear in there. It looks sort of big but I put the ball bearing in there and I couldnt feel it at all so Im thinking it will be fine.
I also took them to the wite wheel ad it was cool to see the VW stamp om them. They came out very nice. |
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Lucho
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Joined: August 25, 2015
Posts: 28
Location: Fort walton beach
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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| I read on ratwell that I should trash the washers that came in the cv joints then I read here to leave them in. I assembled without them. Should I put them, Back in? |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Lucho wrote: |
| I read on ratwell that I should trash the washers that came in the cv joints then I read here to leave them in. I assembled without them. Should I put them, Back in? |
That is a good one.
Vw released a service bulletin to remove the washers. With no explanation. So why is anybodies guess? At this point nobody has provided documentation stating why.
Some are adamant about leaving them in, so the axles are not siding side to side.
In another camp. The off road axles have no provision for the washers and the axles are allowed to float in the CV joints.
I don't know what to think?
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Lucho
Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2015
Posts: 28
Location: Fort walton beach
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Tcash wrote: |
| Lucho wrote: |
| I read on ratwell that I should trash the washers that came in the cv joints then I read here to leave them in. I assembled without them. Should I put them, Back in? |
That is a good one.
Vw released a service bulletin to remove the washers. With no explanation. So why is anybodies guess? At this point nobody has provided documentation stating why.
Some are adamant about leaving them in, so the axles are not siding side to side.
In another camp. The off road axles have no provision for the washers and the axles are allowed to float in the CV joints.
I don't know what to think?
Tcash |
Hmmm, ill go with the off roaders then, but only because they are already installed and Im lazy like that. Also is there such a thing as too much lube? I think I went overboard. |
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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I would not think so, better a little more than not enough. Just be sure to re-torque the bolts after 50 miles or so.
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Lucho
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Joined: August 25, 2015
Posts: 28
Location: Fort walton beach
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| Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 10:58 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, so I pulled the brake rotors and Calipers off to turn the rotors and rebuild the calipers. I am having a problem with one of the calipers. I was able to get 1 of the pistons out but the other is stuck. I have read and watched lots of videos but compressed air doesn't work. It wont even budge. I tried a few things already except for the grease gun because I read that grease being all inside the caliper wont be good. I have a grease gun though and I wanted to ask you guys if you guys have an idea of how to get that piston unstuck. Would the grease gun be a bad idea?
Thanks. |
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 11:46 am Post subject: |
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| Lucho wrote: |
I tried a few things already except for the grease gun because I read that grease being all inside the caliper wont be good.
Only if you do not clean the grease out.
Would the grease gun be a bad idea?
No
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Lucho
Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2015
Posts: 28
Location: Fort walton beach
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| Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 11:59 am Post subject: |
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| Tcash wrote: |
| Lucho wrote: |
I tried a few things already except for the grease gun because I read that grease being all inside the caliper wont be good.
Only if you do not clean the grease out.
Would the grease gun be a bad idea?
No
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How would I go about cleaning all of the insides without opening it? Compressed air, water, stuff like that? It seems like some some grease would be very hard to ever get out |
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Abscate
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22670
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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| Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 12:20 pm Post subject: |
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If you use grease to pop the piston out, you need to get all traces of it out of the brake system as I doubt the rubber seals and hoses will like grease.
Frankly, if you need that much pressure to get a caliper piston out, I think you will need new calipers. My guess is they are rusted in and they won't seal after rebuilding.
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Lucho
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Joined: August 25, 2015
Posts: 28
Location: Fort walton beach
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| Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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| Abscate wrote: |
If you use grease to pop the piston out, you need to get all traces of it out of the brake system as I doubt the rubber seals and hoses will like grease.
Frankly, if you need that much pressure to get a caliper piston out, I think you will need new calipers. My guess is they are rusted in and they won't seal after rebuilding. |
Yes you might be right. I just want to give it a try though. I moved that piston by compressing it with a c clamp and it wasnt too hard to push down, it just doesnt want to come out. The other one was also sort of stuck but i took it out, sanded it a little and now it looks pretty new so im hoping the same will be with the other one.
What I will do is hook the caliper up to the bus and pump the break pedal and see if that works. If it doesnt Ill have to use the grease gun.
Ill let you guys know how it goes |
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Abscate
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Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22670
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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| Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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ITs a dual piston caliper right?
You need to clamp the other one of course, so that the pressure works only on that bad boy.
Apologies if this is self evident, but I just tried to bleed one side of a BMW the other day with the other side open....DOH!!
Forty years of experience wasted on the feeble of mind..
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Lucho
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Joined: August 25, 2015
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Location: Fort walton beach
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| Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Abscate wrote: |
ITs a dual piston caliper right?
You need to clamp the other one of course, so that the pressure works only on that bad boy.
Apologies if this is self evident, but I just tried to bleed one side of a BMW the other day with the other side open....DOH!!
Forty years of experience wasted on the feeble of mind.. |
Yes it is, and yes thats what I have been doing. Clamping the other one in place but still the other one doesnt move. Hopefully pumping the breaks will work. I also has to plug in the bleeder holes since I took out the valves because they where very rusted. I jist put some screws in there for now. |
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Abscate
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22670
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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| Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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| Lucho wrote: |
| Abscate wrote: |
ITs a dual piston caliper right?
You need to clamp the other one of course, so that the pressure works only on that bad boy.
Apologies if this is self evident, but I just tried to bleed one side of a BMW the other day with the other side open....DOH!!
Forty years of experience wasted on the feeble of mind.. |
Yes it is, and yes thats what I have been doing. Clamping the other one in place but still the other one doesnt move. Hopefully pumping the breaks will work. I also has to plug in the bleeder holes since I took out the valves because they where very rusted. I jist put some screws in there for now. |
Hmmmm...that might not work since the bleeders need the taper to seal off the hydraulic System. You might not be able to establish pressure due to trapped air, too.
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