Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
36hp engine assembly - oil pump
Forum Index -> Beetle - Oval-Window - 1953-57 Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
2Dokas
Samba Member


Joined: October 09, 2004
Posts: 752
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
2Dokas is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:05 am    Post subject: 36hp engine assembly - oil pump Reply with quote

Finally getting the engine cases back together, and found (I think) the issue that caused me to tear it apart 2x.

This time I turned the crank a ton during and after tightening each bolt, took a while but after torquing all the case nuts everything was great.

Put the gears of the oil pump in and still seemed fine,

put the cover on and torqued to 5 lbs and it started to bind.

pulled of the cover to see if there was something causing the cover to bind,

pushed it towards the gears and could get it to bind.

even bound up with the cover off.

here is a shot of the end of the oil pump gear,.

maybe this is why?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Both ends, one seems worse and had a distinct lip.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.






think I can just file it smooth?
_________________
87 Doka 2WD Ej22,
56 Convertible
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Mr.Duncan
Samba Member


Joined: May 12, 2012
Posts: 3542
Location: Houston, TX
Mr.Duncan is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even though its going to be hard to find,

I'd strongly recommend you search for a new oil pump.

That drive tang is seriously worn.
_________________
(Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com

Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Facebook Gallery Classifieds Feedback
2Dokas
Samba Member


Joined: October 09, 2004
Posts: 752
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
2Dokas is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks

assuming I cant find one, which I have not looked,

I have seen several Wheeler Dealer episodes to assume you can weld new material and then grind. (They added material to a crank and reground it)

peter
_________________
87 Doka 2WD Ej22,
56 Convertible
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
3foldfolly
Samba Member


Joined: March 08, 2009
Posts: 894
Location: Edwardsville, Il
3foldfolly is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You would be well advised to replace that pump and the front cover plate. Check the slot in the cam as well.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24%2D311%2D115%2D107%2DKHD
http://aircooledresearch.com/docs/parts_oil_pump.html
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
carnut63
Samba Member


Joined: May 14, 2009
Posts: 336
Location: Murrieta, CA & Everett, WA
carnut63 is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's also advised to not do anything you see on Wheeler Dealers.
_________________
Tyson

---> Mar 2 1955 Strato Silver Oval <---
---> July 1957 ragtop project <---
---> May 5 1966 Ghia <---
---> 1962 Ruby Red Deluxe (sold)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Yahoo Messenger Gallery Classifieds Feedback
splitjunkie
Samba Member


Joined: April 04, 2006
Posts: 4095

splitjunkie is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2Dokas wrote:
thanks

assuming I cant find one, which I have not looked,

I have seen several Wheeler Dealer episodes to assume you can weld new material and then grind. (They added material to a crank and reground it)

peter


While this is technically true, it is not as simple as welding and grinding.

Buy a new pump.
_________________
Chris

You know, a lot of these scratches will buff right out... Jerry Seinfeld
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Danwvw
Samba Member


Joined: July 31, 2012
Posts: 8892
Location: Oregon Coast
Danwvw is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111115107KIT
_________________
1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Facebook Twitter Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Jrb572
Samba Member


Joined: August 30, 2013
Posts: 191
Location: St. Louis
Jrb572 is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not found anyone who carries it. That has them in stock. I was going to replace mine to just make sure it had a new pump.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Snort
Samba Member


Joined: April 02, 2005
Posts: 1957
Location: Seattle, WA
Snort is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111115107KIT


Those have not been available for a while now.

Whether you decide to attempt repairing your existing pump or buy a new one you should go through the motions of learning how to measure all of the clearances and make adjustments to the fit of the parts to make it work as well as is possible. There's some good reading on this site and some links to a couple of outside web resources on how to do this. But in general you should be looking at the fit of that shaft in your hand to make sure it isn't bottoming out on the camshaft, clearance between that gear shaft and the bore of the pump, tight fit of the other gear shaft to the pump body, clearance between both gears and the sides of the pump, deck height of the gears (top of the pump to top of the gears as if they were pistons in a cylinder), flatness and rigidity of the cover, and a tight fit between the pump body and the bore of the crankcase. All of those things above can mean the difference between having great oil pressure with a stock 17mm pump or having terrible pressure from a faulty 21mm pump.

Here is a 21mm pump for sale, looks like it might have 8mm stud holes but those fit right over the 6mm studs and if you use a 6mm stud cover then you can use your normal washers and nuts and it will be fine. Start shopping for an NOS or good used 17mm pump if you want to put it back to stock someday, it might take you some time to find one though. Remember, even new pumps need to be checked for clearances.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=943049
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
3foldfolly
Samba Member


Joined: March 08, 2009
Posts: 894
Location: Edwardsville, Il
3foldfolly is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snort wrote:
Danwvw wrote:
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111115107KIT


Those have not been available for a while now.

Whether you decide to attempt repairing your existing pump or buy a new one you should go through the motions of learning how to measure all of the clearances and make adjustments to the fit of the parts to make it work as well as is possible. There's some good reading on this site and some links to a couple of outside web resources on how to do this. But in general you should be looking at the fit of that shaft in your hand to make sure it isn't bottoming out on the camshaft, clearance between that gear shaft and the bore of the pump, tight fit of the other gear shaft to the pump body, clearance between both gears and the sides of the pump, deck height of the gears (top of the pump to top of the gears as if they were pistons in a cylinder), flatness and rigidity of the cover, and a tight fit between the pump body and the bore of the crankcase. All of those things above can mean the difference between having great oil pressure with a stock 17mm pump or having terrible pressure from a faulty 21mm pump.

Here is a 21mm pump for sale, looks like it might have 8mm stud holes but those fit right over the 6mm studs and if you use a 6mm stud cover then you can use your normal washers and nuts and it will be fine. Start shopping for an NOS or good used 17mm pump if you want to put it back to stock someday, it might take you some time to find one though. Remember, even new pumps need to be checked for clearances.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=943049
You could mount the later pump using 6x1.0 to 8x1.25mm step studs https://www.belmetric.com/metric-studs-metric-step-studs-6810mm-c-9_73.html
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Snort
Samba Member


Joined: April 02, 2005
Posts: 1957
Location: Seattle, WA
Snort is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually that step stud arrangement doesn't work as the 8mm case and pump holes are moved 1mm outward. That means that the 6mm case studs touch only one side of the 8mm pump holes when it's installed. Using 8mm step studs would cause interference.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
3foldfolly
Samba Member


Joined: March 08, 2009
Posts: 894
Location: Edwardsville, Il
3foldfolly is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snort wrote:
Actually that step stud arrangement doesn't work as the 8mm case and pump holes are moved 1mm outward. That means that the 6mm case studs touch only one side of the 8mm pump holes when it's installed. Using 8mm step studs would cause interference.
. You learn something new here on the Samba every day! Thanks for the correction. I think I'd hold out for the correct pump. Air cooled research price is a little steep but there is no indication they're out of stock
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Mr. Motorhead
Mad Scientist


Joined: January 06, 2004
Posts: 717
Location: Practitioner of 36hp alchemy
Mr. Motorhead is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snort wrote:
Aircooled Research price is a little steep but there is no indication they're out of stock


And for good reason as they have been a little hard to source (that and I also send a resurfaced cover with it). I just sold my last one, now I'm out of stock and will have to find more. I notice a couple WTB ads here as well looking for the same thing. BTW, if you order the 6mm pump off CIP1 you will get a 8mm pump, they don't have them either.
_________________
30 years experience in the sales of new and used auto parts!
36 horsepower parts for sale at http://www.aircooledresearch.com/
Or the new site at http://www.bugparts.com
Check out the Bonneville project:
http://aircooledresearch.com/docs/thebonnevilleproject.html#

"All limitations are self imposed."
Some Chinese guy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Abscate
Samba Member


Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22670
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
Abscate is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a simple add and grind fix. The shape is easily reproduced to within a few mil, and as long as the tang doesn't bottom out in the cam slot, no problems

But most importantly, I'm not sure you have found the source of the binding problem yet. How can wear on the tang make the cover bind?
_________________
.ssS!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
2Dokas
Samba Member


Joined: October 09, 2004
Posts: 752
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
2Dokas is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
…..

But most importantly, I'm not sure you have found the source of the binding problem yet. How can wear on the tang make the cover bind?


I also replaced the cam, and I don't have it any longer to look carefully, but my guess is both parts wore out together and they fit, or perhaps it was binding up all along,

I had never driven the car nor ran the engine, PO said it was a fuel pump issue, but I didn't bother, I just wanted to rebuild a 36hp. Very Happy

once the new one shows up I will report on the binding,

peter
_________________
87 Doka 2WD Ej22,
56 Convertible
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Mr. Motorhead
Mad Scientist


Joined: January 06, 2004
Posts: 717
Location: Practitioner of 36hp alchemy
Mr. Motorhead is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One other small thing to consider. Sometimes (not always) the end of the cam may be slightly different where the drive groove for the for the oil pump is. This sometimes does not allow the gear drive to seat all the way down in the slot. All it takes for that to happen is just a few thousandths to push the gear into the cover making it bind up. Most all the new pumps have a little extra clearance to accommodate all cam styles. The simple remedy to a problem like that is to put the drive gear in a press and press the drive shaft into the gear as needed to clear (in case anyone runs into that problem in the future).
_________________
30 years experience in the sales of new and used auto parts!
36 horsepower parts for sale at http://www.aircooledresearch.com/
Or the new site at http://www.bugparts.com
Check out the Bonneville project:
http://aircooledresearch.com/docs/thebonnevilleproject.html#

"All limitations are self imposed."
Some Chinese guy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Beetle - Oval-Window - 1953-57 All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.